I don't have any installed at my home- YET!, but for my bench at work, I got rid of the flickering flourescent light and installed these beauties.

I also purchased 9 of the 'pirahna' style LED emitters, to try my hand at making a small spot light for the mill. That will be a future project.


What has anyone else done?

 

A nice ringlight for my camera:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=39303

 

I have 14 yard lights around our house. They used 20 watt MR16 projector lamps which , besides consuming 280 watts, were expensive and frequently burning out.
I made strip board disks the same diameter as the old MR16's and mounted 3 10mm ultra bright white LEDS on each of them. I used 2 short lengths of #14 solid wire that plugged into the MR16 socket to bring power to the board.
I wired up a FWB rectifier at the transformer to power it all.
It looks great, won't ever burn out and consumes barely a fraction of the power the original lamps did.

 

I carry a Surefire E1L with me everywhere.

Also, all of my weaponlights are now LEDs, as recoil would continually break the filament bulb types.

Also converted snow blower headlight to LED for same reason (Vibration = Short bulb life)

 

A handy low voltage low current zener replacement.

Figure if the LED is conducting 20ma the circuit could drive 200ma. Vcc could go up to 8V.

 

My Work light... I mean the PC.

 

Also, all of my weaponlights are now LEDs, as recoil would continually break the filament bulb types.

Have you tested the standard light that comes with the HK 416 assault rifle? Not LED but very bright.

 

Also converted snow blower headlight to LED for same reason (Vibration = Short bulb life)

Nice idea......will definitely check this out

 

Made a dual spot/work light for my milling machine. The lights are mounted so it will illuminate the work right below the spindle, to help my aging eyes Will post a photo if anyones interested.

 

...Will post a photo if anyones interested.

Yes, post a photo please.

 

Will post a photo if anyones interested.

I'm interested. Please post picture.

 

OK, here is my milling machine light. Now to most of you I cheated, no fancy LED drivers, no fancy power supply. I did it the easiest way I could!

First off the light head, I used this; http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-2-half-inch-nine-led-flashlights-2-pack-97036.html
I know, blasphemy! But it works. I took the lights apart and cut the main tube off behind the threads that hold the light head on. Then made a part from aluminum scrap left over from something else to fit inside the tube. Machined a screw to attach it to the rod, so it can be adjusted to put light where needed.

The main part that attach's to the mill (I have a Bridgeport) Is also made from a piece of aluminum scrap. The large semi-circular part fits on the angle adjuster part of the mill head. The part is held to the machine by a "worm gear hose clamp'. I cut the hose clamp in two and screwed it to the bracket.

For power I just used a wall-wart. Made a little aluminum box from, you guessed it, scrap aluminum sheet metal. It holds a toggle switch and a power jack that fits the wall-wart lead.

If you think I used alot of scrap, I do. at work they called me "Sanford". I was always picking up left over stock/scrap and making things out of it. When I throw out a piece of metal it's either chips or so small nothing can be made from it!

Sorry for the photo quality, my digtal camera is only 3mega pixel.

Hope this gives someone an idea to use, cary

 

Nice job.

I like how the on/off switch is unobtrusive but 'there' when you look for it.

 

My line operated bright white LED night light, 2002 +_, isn't as bright now. Converted some cheap flash lights to bright white LEDs when the LEDs first became available, used 3 N cells, replacing 2 AAs

 

I work in dark 53' trailers loading packages and I need to read the package destination to confirm it 'belongs'--the dock light is too far away, so I use a white LED headlamp.

The stock headlamp uses 3 AAA batteries, lasts for about an hour, and is 'rated' at 174 lumens. It starts off bright then diminishes, so without concern for the lifetime of the LED, I attached 4 AA batteries without any current limiter and bolted on an active heatsink. Even though I'm overdriving the LED, the emitter temperature is significantly lower, 20 deg C, than the stock version (which actually melted the plastic LED retaining ring when used unmodified.) The new battery pack lasts for 90 minutes, so basically I have a portable head warmer

I put together a triple LED unit rated at 930 lumens with a 1000ma buck current regulator, but while testing the cool-white LED, I slipped and burned-out one of them. I replaced it with a warm-white, but I don't like the color and I'll most likely have to spend $23 for yet another cool-white.

I'm waiting on some rechargeable Nickel-Zinc batteries, 8xAA, to attach to the head band. In the mean-time I've strapped on a ~5lb 12v 8ah sealed lead acid battery on my belt--nothing spells bulky and and heavy like lead!