# Replacing/repairing power swicth HP 2510p

Status
Not open for further replies.

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
Im having an issue with my HP 2510p notebook.

Power switch stopped working. No lights nothing. Disassembled the notebook and i can see on the motherboard on the opposite side of the switch a few blown resistors(I think).

Ive attached pictures of the area on both sides:

What I need to know is:

Can i repair this myself?
What kind of parts do I need?
Can i get these parts from an online source or my local electronics shop or do i have to get it from HP?
Can you direct me to a tutorial showing the best way to replace such small items on the motherboard.

Eugene

#### SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,210
[eta]
I have attached both images that were posted in the original post; please remove the links to them to save Rifaa's bandwidth.
First attachment is Charger adapter area, fried PL6, PL7, C100, etc.[/eta]

I can only see a couple of the reference designators due to the smoke/crud on the board; PL6 and PL7. I believe they used the "P" prefix for "power", but I could be mistaken there. The "L" signifies an inductor.

What's the connector that's labeled "28292", and what did you have plugged into it?

[eta] That's the power adapter jack

2nd attachment is the power switch area [/eta]

You have some corrosion going on around that switch. Get some hand sanitizer (the clear kind) and an old toothbrush. Give it and the PLx area a good working-over with the hand sanitizer and brush, wipe off the excess, then let it dry for a good while. The hand sanitizer will evaporate. You can speed the process by using a hair dryer a foot or so away from the board.

[eta]
3) Charger adapter area after cleaning
4) Broken switch, lifted pad after cleaning

#### Attachments

• 222.1 KB Views: 64
• 261.7 KB Views: 60
• 261.7 KB Views: 28
• 185 KB Views: 31
Last edited:

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11

The 28292 is where the charger plugs into the notebook.

Will attempt the clean ASAP

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
Is that corrosion or did a USB device messed up that area.

Or is it a fire wire port

Need close ups to find out.

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
Ok first pic is after my attempt at cleaning up a bit better:

Thes econd pic is when i tried to clean the corrosion on the power button itself...it just popped off

Am I screwed?

Also is there anyway to bypass that on/off switch, if not any ideas how to replace and what to replace?

Thanks

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
OK..time for you to really show me that area...let's fix it.

I need high res pics. close ups with good lighting. pic should be so good that when I zoom in I should see the numberings.

Take a perpendicular shot

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
Carambaa !!...

I have saved em..now please edit and remove them or resize them.

Cause every time I click on ur thread..my bandwidth hogs and u know I pay for every kb of download

U know u can attach them here. or how about photobucket.com

Just post the links...that would be better

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
OK tell me..what exactly happened to it ?

and can you remove those components...?
What kinda equipment u have?

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
Ok

So it just stopped responding. Completely, Im not sure if the battery ran down first before it died or not. But before stripping it, it was completely non responsive. No noise, no led's, no screen flickering etc.

I changed chargers etc but no joy.

The picture with the little square block 'had' a push button switch on it which was connected to the power button. While cleaning that came loose.

The burnt pieces are directly opposite the switch on the other side of the board.

This happened 24 days after the 3 year warranty ran out. HP want to charge me R19000 ($2300) to replace the motherboard. I just thought before spending money on a new laptop I could maybe save this one. Im a computer technician with limited electronic knowledge. Ive soldered before, installed modchips in my Xbox's etc...but this seems alot more intricate. Im willing to give it a bash, if it fails Ill still be in the same position #### R!f@@ Joined Apr 2, 2009 9,734 U would need a hot gun to remove the components. Do you have one ? {ed}$2300....heck I am willing to give you two laps for that..

Tell u what. If you can't get it running..send me the board. I can fix it for ya..say for 100 buck or so
...just kiddin...
anyways, do let us know how it goes. Or if you plan to sell is as it is...

Last edited:

#### SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,210
19,000.00 INR = $379.32 USD; that's still enough to buy a brand new laptop - not one that nice though. My guess is that you had a LARGE power surge (something like a lightning strike), the charger became defective (overvoltage), or some high-power item on the motherboard shorted out. If you have no experience with SMD/SMT (surface mount devices/surface mount technology) it will be quite challenging for you to replace them. Simply determining what the values were of the blown components is going to be somewhat challenging - unless a board schematic and parts list can be located. I found a couple of sites that claim to have them, but you need to pay a fee ranging anywhere from$5 USD to \$30 USD to access the site/download the document - and I'm skeptical that they actually have the schematic and board parts list.

The mainboard/motherboard appears to be a Quanta OT2
http://www.mediafire.com/?rpitbo627kqqqas
I'm going to attach it so you can simply download it from here.
Power in is covered on page 33 of the PDF; the fried parts are on the upper left of the schematic.
PL6 and PL7 are 80 Ohm ferrite beads, P/N FBMJ3216HS800, size 1206
Farnell in the UK has some of them on hand for £0.123/ea (~9.87 rupees):
The ferrite beads basically act as a low-pass filter; they have a DC resistance of 0.01 Ohm, but at 100MHz they're ~80 Ohms.
PC100 is a 0.1uF 50v capacitor.

The power switch should be in there somewhere as well.

Anyway, see the attached schematics.

#### Attachments

• 977.4 KB Views: 77

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
Hey is SW1 blown or just missin.

#### SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,210
Rifaa,
In the 1st photos he posted, the power switch had corrosion showing. I had him clean both areas of the board with a toothbrush and hand sanitizer, and the switch popped off. If you would have read the 1st part of the thread, you would know that.

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
Hey is SW1 blown or just missin.

As far as I could tell it didnt blow.(no burn marks)

It did break off though, im guessing I need to replace it too.

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
Ya...just saw it...
So Mate...U really need a hot gun and no clean flux to tackle that problem...
I believe it is do able.

My bet is on what Sgt said..chances are a spike blew the cap together with the beads.
That area can be cleaned up and fixed but I wonder a semiconductor would survive that spike.
May be a protection device is still shorted some where.

Hey Bud..do you have DMM ?

Last edited:

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
Ya...just saw it...

Hey Bud..do you have DMM ?
Yes I do

But embarassingly, I have no clue how to use it and never have used it.

It has batteries installed so I guess Im not a total noob

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
The power switch should be in there somewhere as well.

Anyway, see the attached schematics.
I found referance to SW1 on page 31 but not sure what part number etc I should be using to find spares...

#### R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,734
So...what can you do to clean up that area..
U know u need to remove excess solder in order to do anything.

#### Eugeneb

Joined Nov 8, 2011
11
I am going to see if I can get my hands on a heat gun and no clean flux.

SO what is the procedure to clean up?

Do I heat it up and then remove the blown ferrite beads?

The most Ive done when it comes to soldering such minute components is installing mod chips on my xbox's

ANy links to online guides would be apppreciated.

Status
Not open for further replies.