Did someone suggest that it's hard?????? is a thermostat and a relay so hard to conceive and rig up??????
Did someone suggest that it's hard?????? is a thermostat and a relay so hard to conceive and rig up??????
Well, it's not that you cant implement an on/off controller, but where are you going to measure the temperature? If you measure the air space temp or the actual temp of a bottle or something and your relative humidity is above 20% I could almost guarantee you will condense and freeze up the cold head sink. And you wont know when that happens. The power supply and NTC thermistor implement a sort of reverse heat flow defroster.????? is a thermostat and a relay so hard to conceive and rig up??????
Did you replace the primary or secondary side fuse? Your TEC is bad if your measurement is correct, and likely the smoke was released from resistors or diodes around T6 &T7 in the primary. These TECs are 12.7V @5-6A, or about 2.5ohms. Use a bench supply in current limit mode to test the isolated TEC. Set the compliance voltage to 12 and current limit to 1A. The TEC should pull the supply to about 2.5V. If much lower, TEC is bad.[soon the fuse blew again and a puff of smoke rose off the PCB !!]
I had to look up the Trigger's Broom reference. Can't believe I haven't seen that before. Now I have a new show to find and watch! For those that also do not know this, look here - http://foolsandhorses.weebly.com/triggers-broom.html and watch hereSo my wine fridge is starting to look like Trigger's broom (3 out of 4 fans replaced, 1 out of 2 controllers replaced, 1 out of 2 cooler modules replaced, all with non-original replacements, and I think I had to change a cap on the little temperature board ages ago, too)
You should start your own thread for this.Hi everyone,
I have my wine cooler but as soon as I put a new fuse, it blow immediately.
I found that 2 parts burned but for one i'm not able to know what is it.
Can you help me ?
Thank you !
Pierre-Olivier
I see one part in the photo. It appears to be a capacitor but it could also be a varistor, a MOV. They often fail exactly the way that one looks. That's their job.Hi everyone,
I have my wine cooler but as soon as I put a new fuse, it blow immediately.
I found that 2 parts burned but for one i'm not able to know what is it.
Can you help me ?
Thank you !
Pierre-Olivier
Hi: Thanks for this informative post. I had a wine cooler with the exact board and the same problem. From your experience I changed the 4 47uf capacitors on the DC side of the board. Bingo again! Starts and works properly. One of the 4 was open when checked on the capacitor meter after removal. I do not know which one it was from the board.Finally, I got it!
As other said in this forum I ended up replacing all the caps. Not that I wanted but that was the only thing that worked. Now lets get to the long story.
I initially replaced the 120mF/200v and tested the board. Nothing. Still dead with cooling plate, working fine without at start and fine again when connected while working.
Then I replaced all the caps on the high voltage area all the way to the heat sink that separates the board in 2 areas, the one with a Schottky rectifier STPS2045CT on it for no avail.
Next was Schottky's rectifier turn to be replaced. I was quite confident about it but it turned out not to be the culprit.
Fourth step was the big cap, 2200mF to be replaced, again with no results. At this point I got tired of replacing and testing the board and I just replaced all the remaining caps, all small values, and than give it another try. BINGO! It started just fine and everything worked fine after that without any hiccups.
Below I attached a picture of all the staff I replaced as well as the schematic I used, copyright to a Brazilian guy, link included a few posts ago.
There is also a picture of the board, specially the low voltage part where the problem was, just to give you an idea about what I was talking about.
I also included a few details about what I ordered from Mouser.com, no affiliation, no advertising or profit here (I wish...) but this guys are from Texas and they were the cheapest and the fastest, only $4.99 for USPS shipping and that's not all I bought from them, there was a few other items in the box.
Beside those already mentioned I also replaced the display since the second digit was almost completely out.
That was a huge pain since I could not find the same display anywhere on the Internet. The original display was blue, common anode, 10 pins (only 9 used) HGA4023HB-C.
The only option I was able to find, also blue in color, common anode, with Pin 10 common anode for the first digit and Pin 5 common anode for the second digit was the one from Mauser.com, DA03-11PBWA/A.
Anyway, there are some issues with this display.
-First, the display is slightly smaller in size, including the digits. Overall it's not that much of a difference so I ignored.
-Second, except for Pin 5 and Pin 10, the common anodes, all the other pins differ. For that I had to run a bunch of wires from the new display pins to the corresponding pins on the board.
Overall an easy job if not for the display. To fix all the issues I spent around $15 and quite a few days to research for the schematic, display, possible issues and so on.
Hopefully this will help everyone to save some money and specially time, a luxury I have less and less.
View attachment 93458
===================================
Mouser #: 604-DA03-11PBWA/A
Mfr. #: DA03-11PBWA/A
Desc.: LED Displays & AccessoriesBlue diffused 2 Digit
1 $5.47 $5.47
===================================
Mouser #: 511-STPS2045CT
Mfr. #: STPS2045CT
Desc.: Schottky Diodes & Rectifiers2X10 Amp 45 Volt
1 $1.21 $1.21
===================================
Mouser #: 647-UVY1E222MHD
Mfr. #: UVY1E222MHD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded25volts 2200uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS
1 $0.67 $0.67
===================================
Mouser #: 647-UVK1H220MDD
Mfr. #: UVK1H220MDD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50volts 22uF 5x11 20% 2LS
2 $0.10 $0.20
===================================
Mouser #: 140-REA470M1HBK0611P
Mfr. #: REA470M1HBK-0611P
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm
4 $0.09 $0.36
===================================
Mouser #: 140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407
Mfr. #: SEA010M1HBK-0407P
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 1.0uF 20% 4X7mm
3 $0.09 $0.27
===================================
Mouser #: 140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G
Mfr. #: RGA4R7M1HBK-0511G
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 4.7uF 105C 5x11mm
4 $0.08 $0.32
===================================
Mouser #: 661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3
Mfr. #: EKXJ201ELL121MK30S
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded120uF 200Volts
2 $1.48 $2.96
===================================
View attachment 93454 View attachment 93455 View attachment 93456
Were they really in series, electrically?There were two 1000 mf caps in series that I replaced with a 2200 mf I had left over from the wine cooler, and it fired right up. Maybe some others will go bad down the road, but its just a power supply....
by Duane Benson
by Duane Benson
by Jake Hertz