I've also found that although this particular board is not available, many thermoelectric wine cooler brands use almost the same board and are almost identical inside. Just different branding. This is very similar to mine.

This transistor looks like a reasonable replacement?

Every diode on the PCB tests good in-circuit; ~600mV forward drop in one direction, nothing in the other, using my multimeter's diode setting.

 

Finally, I got it!

As other said in this forum I ended up replacing all the caps. Not that I wanted but that was the only thing that worked. Now lets get to the long story.

I initially replaced the 120mF/200v and tested the board. Nothing. Still dead with cooling plate, working fine without at start and fine again when connected while working.

Then I replaced all the caps on the high voltage area all the way to the heat sink that separates the board in 2 areas, the one with a Schottky rectifier STPS2045CT on it for no avail.

Next was Schottky's rectifier turn to be replaced. I was quite confident about it but it turned out not to be the culprit.

Fourth step was the big cap, 2200mF to be replaced, again with no results. At this point I got tired of replacing and testing the board and I just replaced all the remaining caps, all small values, and than give it another try. BINGO! It started just fine and everything worked fine after that without any hiccups.

Below I attached a picture of all the staff I replaced as well as the schematic I used, copyright to a Brazilian guy, link included a few posts ago.
There is also a picture of the board, specially the low voltage part where the problem was, just to give you an idea about what I was talking about.

I also included a few details about what I ordered from Mouser.com, no affiliation, no advertising or profit here (I wish...) but this guys are from Texas and they were the cheapest and the fastest, only $4.99 for USPS shipping and that's not all I bought from them, there was a few other items in the box.

Beside those already mentioned I also replaced the display since the second digit was almost completely out.
That was a huge pain since I could not find the same display anywhere on the Internet. The original display was blue, common anode, 10 pins (only 9 used) HGA4023HB-C.
The only option I was able to find, also blue in color, common anode, with Pin 10 common anode for the first digit and Pin 5 common anode for the second digit was the one from Mauser.com, DA03-11PBWA/A.
Anyway, there are some issues with this display.
-First, the display is slightly smaller in size, including the digits. Overall it's not that much of a difference so I ignored.
-Second, except for Pin 5 and Pin 10, the common anodes, all the other pins differ. For that I had to run a bunch of wires from the new display pins to the corresponding pins on the board.

Overall an easy job if not for the display. To fix all the issues I spent around $15 and quite a few days to research for the schematic, display, possible issues and so on.
Hopefully this will help everyone to save some money and specially time, a luxury I have less and less.










===================================
Mouser #: 604-DA03-11PBWA/A

Mfr. #: DA03-11PBWA/A
Desc.: LED Displays & AccessoriesBlue diffused 2 Digit

1 $5.47 $5.47
===================================
Mouser #: 511-STPS2045CT

Mfr. #: STPS2045CT
Desc.: Schottky Diodes & Rectifiers2X10 Amp 45 Volt

1 $1.21 $1.21
===================================
Mouser #: 647-UVY1E222MHD

Mfr. #: UVY1E222MHD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded25volts 2200uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS

1 $0.67 $0.67
===================================
Mouser #: 647-UVK1H220MDD

Mfr. #: UVK1H220MDD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50volts 22uF 5x11 20% 2LS

2 $0.10 $0.20
===================================
Mouser #: 140-REA470M1HBK0611P

Mfr. #: REA470M1HBK-0611P
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm

4 $0.09 $0.36
===================================
Mouser #: 140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407

Mfr. #: SEA010M1HBK-0407P
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 1.0uF 20% 4X7mm

3 $0.09 $0.27
===================================
Mouser #: 140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G

Mfr. #: RGA4R7M1HBK-0511G
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded50V 4.7uF 105C 5x11mm

4 $0.08 $0.32
===================================
Mouser #: 661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3

Mfr. #: EKXJ201ELL121MK30S
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded120uF 200Volts

2 $1.48 $2.96

===================================

 

Hopefully this will help everyone to save some money and specially time, a luxury I have less and less.

Sadly, the time-saving solution is to go buy another one. You and I both put way too much time into these things, however satisfying it is in the end.

The take-home message for repairing these boards seems to be "replace all the electrolytic caps" first, along with any obviously bad components. Otherwise you're chasing your tail.

 

I'm Having a similar problem similar controller similar frig.
I tested all of the capacitors after removing them using a Heathkit Capacitor tester.
3 of the 47uf 25v caps were bad one tested 30 uf.
1 of the 22 uf tested bad no capacitance.
I replaced the 2 power transistors and all the 22 and 47 uf caps and fuse all is well.
I have never seen that many caps go bad at the same time before.
Nice brand of electronics Alibbeebee or what ever.

 

And have you got it going?

 

And have you got it going?

Yes seems to be working ok Its been on about 24hrs now

 

I have the exactly the same problem, with TU/Peltier Plate connected it's dead, fans not spinning, none of the green/red LED on the board lit, front display dead, light inside off.

If I disconnect the Peltier Plate and turn the power on everything is fine. Than I can reconnect the Peltier Plate back on while powered on and everything works just fine until the wine cooler loses the power again.
I can adjust the temperature just fine, once it gets to the set point the inside fan stops and the one on the outside slows down.

My Emerson FR996T wine cooler has a FX-101 board version PCB90829F1 and the best schematic I was able to find was on this website http://dicasdozebio.com/2013/12/01/1547/ where someone explains in Portuguese the principles of cooling using the Peltier Plate.

I have checked quite a few components and all of them turned out to be ok. My main suspect for now is a Power Schottky rectifier, STPS2045C marked on the schematics as DD1 since that seems to be the one that powers the Thermoelectric Unit, that has 20ohms in my case.

If anyone has any more suggestions please feel free to share.

 

Hi
Include schematic diagram.

 

I've taken the liberty of rotating that image and making it a bit easier to read.

 

I've taken the liberty of rotating that image and making it a bit easier to read.
View attachment 99180

For what its worth, I too have a wine cooler that has the symptoms as some of the previous posts. Those symptoms being if you unplug the TEC1 from the board, the unit will start both fans on power up and once they are running you can plug the TEC1 in and the unit will run fine until it cycles off and tries to start again. This most likely means that the power supply section on the board has weakened and can not simultaneously start all three. I have read the various posts talking about replacing all the caps on the board and with inconsistent results. If you have the symptoms as mine had, what I did rather than taking the time to replace all the caps was to put a delayed on relay in the supply to the TEC1. You only need to delay the voltage to the TEC1 by about 3-4 seconds and all is well. Mine has been running fine ever since. I do realize that when the power supply diminishes to the point it won't start anything then a different approach is needed. I happen to have had an old time delay relay from a prior project that I used, but you can use various circuits to control the energizing of a small relay with a delay. We are not talking about much current or voltage here so a small relay will do the job.

 

Its not the normal way but Replace all the capacitors. It will fix your problems.
I troubleshot the ckt the proper way and found 4 different problems.
All related to bad capacitors.
Replace all of them its easy and will fix the problems. If you trouble shoot it
you will spend to much time like I did. I'm going to yell.
REPLACE ALL THE CAPACITORS.
My frig has been working now since the First of December.
Replace all the capacitors then If it no workie troubleshoot it from that point.
See my earlier post so many bad caps what the hay. Bad company making them I guess.

 

…Bad company making them I guess.

Yes and this:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

 

Yes and this:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

I had not heard of this. Good work Thanks

 

I stumbled across this thread after trying to find info for my Frigidaire LFWC08T5LB. Ironically this the second Peltier type fridge I've had go bad. Two completely different brands, designs, functions, etc... Needless to say, I will not be buying another one, haha.

Anyways... I've got the FX101 board.

I was changing a light switch in the same room and when I flipped the breaker back on the fridge started making a soft chirping beep and had a dead light and display.

I have no visual damage, no fried components. I'll try the trick mentioned about unplugging the peltier element to see if I can get it turning on at least. I guess the agreed solution is to replace all the caps so I'll get those ordered up.

Great info on here. I love these kind of forums. It's stupid to spend so much time to save $80 or whatever, but it certainly is satisfying (and often equally frustrating, haha).

 

Just wanted to follow up here.

I replaced all the capacitors and it works again. None were obviously broken or damaged, but replacing everything fixed the problem for around $10 through Mouser.

 

Greetings from Russia.
I have a wine refrigerator stopped working
I bought all of the capacitor according to the list above, and changed.
It works again. Even I did not recognize any of the defective capacitors.

 

Nice!

Yes, without ESR measurements it is impossible to detect a bad capacitor. Some may bulge or explode, but most do not.

 

My bad caps showed NO visual damage and most of them even had capacity. They had failed on ESR which could only be detected with a meter.

Thanks for the head's up
I had the exact problem, the 1uf's were ok but the 4.7uf, 22uf and 47uf had ESR issues, I replaced all and unit works perfectly.
None looked bad but half of the caps were failed, sorry i did not note what locations had failed caps...solder connections were questionable also

 

Nice!

Yes, without ESR measurements it is impossible to detect a bad capacitor. Some may bulge or explode, but most do not.

wayneh, I applaud your effort and time you put into this project, as well as others. I'm sure you've salvaged many Refrigerators that would normally go to the scrap heap.

There's probably many folks out there, who just change the caps and we never know who read this Thread, they just fix and move on.

So, it's not just these folks replies, who learned something.

Good job.

kv

 

Thanks @killivolt, this project and a few like it have taught me a lot. I remember reading years ago, advice from experts to change all the electrolytics before digging in any further to repair a power supply. I thought that was silly advice, since surely those capacitors couldn't all have failed. I mistakenly thought capacitors were "forever", just like the other components on a board.

Now that I've seen it for myself, I see the wisdom of those experts. Capacitors are not much different than batteries. They'll last years but, if stressed, not nearly as long as the other components. And their first mode of failure is the invisible, even by testing their primary function of capacitance.

Now if we could just get the Chinese to put better designs and better capacitors into these things.