Need some help figuring this out.

Ok i have a decoy project that is motorized DC power.
It takes 6 AA batteries or 9v
Right now the project has a on off switch only i want to make it remote control.

I got a 9v DC remote and when i hooked it up. the motor will budge about a mm then stop.
Put my meter on it when the decoy is off (manully) and the the remote on it will read about 9v but as soon at i manually turn it on i can hear the remote trip and read 0v.

Why is it doing this and how can i fix it.

Thanks

Steven

 

My guess is that the mechanism that the motor is driving in jamming or presenting such a heavy load that the 9V battery (which has very little current capacity) is pulled down. Have you tried it with the 6 AA batteries?

Ken

 

Yes i have tried it with both 6AA and a 9V. The motor works fine without the remote. Is there a way to make it work by adding more V or amps? Im new to this so thanks for the help

Steven

 

How about giving us a little more info about the "remote"..lilke a link.

Ken

 

and some sort of schematic showing how you have this "remote" hooked up.

 

The remote is a MSD 9v RF:315Mhz Red: Input White: output Black:neg ground
Blue: antenna

The only thing the schematic doesnt show is a rocker on/off switch between the remote and the motor on the white wire

And its a 9v not 6v

 

Other than the eBay posting, I can't find any info on your "MSD 9v RF:315Mhz". Can you open the receiver case and take some good quality photos of the circuit?

Ken

 

Here are some pics of the circuit, the motor on the other hand has no markings.

 

So get out your meter..set to continuity (ohms symbol) first verify continuity on the 2 black wires.. Should read a very low resistance or beep if you have the "beepy" kind.

Then check continuity on the red and white wires.. With the remote "off" you should read open (no continuity) and with the button pressed on the remote should read continuity (just like the black wires).
If that is not happening the remote is bad. The relay (blue songle box) should also "click" each time you press the button.

 

So get out your meter..set to continuity (ohms symbol) first verify continuity on the 2 black wires.. Should read a very low resistance or beep if you have the "beepy" kind.

Then check continuity on the red and white wires.. With the remote "off" you should read open (no continuity) and with the button pressed on the remote should read continuity (just like the black wires).
If that is not happening the remote is bad. The relay (blue songle box) should also "click" each time you press the button.

He should probably have his meter set to read DC voltages..... If set to DC, he can connect ground probe to black wires, and connect red to the white wire, when he presses on the remote button, he should see 9 volts on the meter, one more press, should be 0V.

To the OP, Are you powering the decoy off of the same 9 volt for the receiver? Or are you trying to switch the decoys power with the relay?

If you are just replacing the decoys switch with the white and black wire from the remote, then all you are doing is shorting both supplies when the relay is actuated....... You can leave the switch in place, and connect the receiver to the decoys power supply..... that way you can turn it off when done using it to save battery power.

You definitely need to post any kind of pictures or hand sketches of the decoys circuit, we could speculate all day but pictures say a lot more...

 

Here is how i have it set up. I used my DC voltage meter and the remote would read 9V when on with no load and 0V when off. but when you hook it up to any 9v motor it will only read 0v and when you try to turn it on by remote it will spike to around 1v then go right back to 0v in less then a sec, you will hear it double click on then off. And yes the on/off switch is on.

 

Is there anything i need to change for the remote to work or is there something in the motor causing the circuit to be broken.

 

Can you measure the current draw of the motor without the remote switch? If you can, then try a substitute load...lamp or resistor...that will draw about that much current. Place it across the remote switch's output, instead of the motor. See if you get the same results.

Ken