Yes.

Here is the latching version:

Note that reverse-EMF protection diodes for the motor are still not shown for simplicity.

I would like to use something similar with one of those remote control units with relays to control a bollard (http://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/ac...ity_Remote_Control_Operated_Parking_Post.html).
I am not sure how

 

Are you talking about these?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Cw0QJU8ro

You'd need to have an antenna above ground.

Drainage would be a problem.

 

Are you talking about these?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Cw0QJU8ro

That's the general idea but am going to use a model like this
http://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/ac...ity_Remote_Control_Operated_Parking_Post.html
Which is a simple rotational arm and all above the ground

You'd need to have an antenna above ground.

Drainage would be a problem.

The remote control unit will be located about 2-3 meters away on a higher area

My problem is that the control unit already has relays and I dont want to use those relays just in place of S1 an S2

 

Are you talking about these?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Cw0QJU8ro

You'd need to have an antenna above ground.

Drainage would be a problem.

I am thinking of a different design
http://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/ac...l_Operated_Parking_Post.html#aAuto_2dPark_2dB
Were nothing is submerged so no drainage problems. Also the controller unit will be about 3-4 meters away from the bollard. My question is can I modify the cct above just to use the relays built in the RC unit ?

 

Why don't you use the remote that the bollard comes with?

If you open the unit, the warranty will be void.

Do you have a schematic of the bollard unit?

Do you have a schematic of the remote?

 

Why don't you use the remote that the bollard comes with?

If you open the unit, the warranty will be void.

Do you have a schematic of the bollard unit?

Do you have a schematic of the remote?

Maybe I was not clear enough. I will give more explanation here
I am building the whole thing myself using a satellite dish actuator motor and off shelf remote control unit like this http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/K6707
Is it more clear now ?

 

Whoops - just noticed a major hijack going on, so here is a new thread. This is the old one - http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=36186

 

bump bump bump

 

An IR sensor and a Sony VCR remote will do. You will need some kind of decoder, probably a PIC microcontroller...

Or, you could use a RC plane or car control, wire one of the channels into your actuator... much easier.

Or, you could try a car remote and a receiver box, if you can find those. Maybe a car wrecker will have one; I'm not even sure if these are distinct modules or if they are built into some central unit.

 

Tom,

I am not looking for a remote controller, I have RF ready made one. My question is controlling the direction of the DC motor using the relays that are on the remote controller unit (each button on the transmitter corresponds to a relay on the controller board)

 

Oh. Look up a H-bridge. These can make a motor go forwards and backwards. You can get a ready made IC for this.

Basically to move it forwards it has four pins and you send it 1 0 0 1. To move it backwards you put on the four pins 0 1 1 0. Where 0 indicates almost 0V and 1 indicates the supply voltage, say 5V or 12V. It would be trivial to wire in; connect the first relay to connections #1 & #4, second relay to connections #2 & #3. If you find it is doing the opposite of what you want (say moving down when you press up) reverse the relays so relay #2 connects to #1 & #4 and vice-versa.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H-bridge

 

I was hoping for something simple like the one I put in my first post. I found this http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LMD18200.html#Diagrams
Is this what you are talking about ?, am not good with electronics so if you have a specific IC with a circuit, I will be grateful.

I need to run on 36VDC, 1A max.

 

The LMD18200T will be just fine for what you need, here is how it would normally need to be connected, and you only need 3 lines to control it, 1 for Direction, 1 for PWM( does not have to be PWM, just a logic High will enable the motor), and one for Brake.... It can handle upto 55 volts and up to 6 amp current draw...

B. Morse

 

The remote control module you are talking about using (K6707) is a 1 channel remote control, you will need to come up with some kind of interface circuit for the H- Bridge to control it properly with 1 input.... (I actually used this remote kit once to remotely enable an audio amplifier in a Van, the owner did not want anymore wires running through the vehicle )

Do you have any experience with microcontrollers??
B. Morse

 

The LMD18200T will be just fine for what you need, here is how it would normally need to be connected, and you only need 3 lines to control it, 1 for Direction, 1 for PWM( does not have to be PWM, just a logic High will enable the motor), and one for Brake.... It can handle upto 55 volts and up to 6 amp current draw...

B. Morse

I am not sure I follow much, logic high means how many volts ? and how do I connect this circuit to the relays of the remote control units to enable button A clockwise and button B counter clockwise ?

 

The remote control module you are talking about using (K6707) is a 1 channel remote control, you will need to come up with some kind of interface circuit for the H- Bridge to control it properly with 1 input.... (I actually used this remote kit once to remotely enable an audio amplifier in a Van, the owner did not want anymore wires running through the vehicle )

Do you have any experience with microcontrollers??
B. Morse

I actually have a remote control with 4 channels in hand. I haven't use microcontrollers in ages and I would like to keep the circuit as simple as possible.

 

I am not sure I follow much, logic high means how many volts ? and how do I connect this circuit to the relays of the remote control units to enable button A clockwise and button B counter clockwise ?

The H-Bridge logic is controlled with 5 volts, so you will have to have a 5 volt voltage regulator in the circuit to supply power to the logic side of the H-Bridge.....

You might be better off using a couple of double pole double throw relays and a couple of limit switches to control the motor, I believe using the H-Bridge will just complicate the circuit a bit more than needed...

The single channel remote can be used in conjuction with a couple of DPDT relays and limit switches, 1 relay/Switch will control the Arm up, and the other relay/switch combo will control the Arm down...

B. Morse

 

the circuit with 2 relays I am talking about is similar to this one, the Momentary switch at the top can be replaced with the relay output of the remote control receiver unit.... the motor will run in one direction until the limit switch is hit which will turn the motor off, then when the remote relay is toggled off, the motor will run the other way until it hits the other limit switch which will turn the motor off... the 12 volts in the circuit can be replaced with the 36 volt source you are using, just make sure the relays are rated for that....

B. Morse

 

There are 2 problems with this circuit (as far as I understand it):
1. The motor will have to always be moving (in either direction)
2. The motor I have already has a limit switch built into its assembly

I have this motor/actuator http://www.southernsat.co.uk/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=118

What I am trying to accomplish is by clicking one remote button the motor will extend until the built in limit switch opens and then it stops, clicking the other button will retract until the other limit switch opens. I will use the remote control unit with the timer mode (relay latches for certain amount of time and then opens)

 

There are 2 problems with this circuit (as far as I understand it):
1. The motor will have to always be moving (in either direction)
2. The motor I have already has a limit switch built into its assembly

I have this motor/actuator http://www.southernsat.co.uk/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=118

What I am trying to accomplish is by clicking one remote button the motor will extend until the built in limit switch opens and then it stops, clicking the other button will retract until the other limit switch opens. I will use the remote control unit with the timer mode (relay latches for certain amount of time and then opens)

The remote control unit you have has 2 modes of operation, Momentary, and latching outputs on the relay, you will have to use the latching mode to actuate the actuator.....

1) the motor will not run all the time in either direction, it will stop once it hits its limit going one way, and will not move again until actuated to go the opposite way...

2)The limit switch you are talking about is a Reed switch, but there is only one, most likely placed at the end of travel for the actuator, this will only tell you when it has reached its outer most limit, you will need another to know when it has gone down all the way... and the reed switch will most like burn up if you try to use it to control motor power or if you try to drive a relay with it, those types of sensors are just used for a contact closure type sensing, no current or load should be applied through the reed switch...


B. Morse