I believe you outlined it in post #11?I'd still like some idea of HOW dangerous it would really be to use the ground wire. I mean, is this a clear and present danger, or just "bad form" with little - albeit not zero - real risk.
What's not to like about a hole in the back (which I think is included in what #12 suggested)? I agree that missing any freon tubing is crucial but, assuming I can do that, why not? Pulling the thing apart will risk far more damage, not to mention taking a long while and perhaps being impossible.I don't like the idea of it. I would be pulling the thing apart and running a new wire like #12 said.
What's not to like about a hole in the back (which I think is included in what #12 suggested)? I agree that missing any freon tubing is crucial but, assuming I can do that, why not? Pulling the thing apart will risk far more damage, not to mention taking a long while and perhaps being impossible.
If you could catch the bullet maybe in some kevlar, I would like to have the pics.I fired a 0.22 bullet through the wall. Done.
Maybe not for my refrigerator.
Sorry Max, my mistake, here in Australia it has been compulsory for many years to have a GFI in the main switchboard.N.A. installations do not generally have a main ELT or GFI at the service panel.
I agree it is still not good practice.
Max.
You wouldn't think so. But, when your grabbing a close handle of a fridge and turning on the sink! I measured 50vac at one household.Sorry Max, my mistake, here in Australia it has been compulsory for many years to have a GFI in the main switchboard.
Mine trips often, I won't what I was doing at the time... (Cue maniacal Frankenstein laugh)
Yeah, I think I'll drill the hole and run the wire. The sink is nearby.I measured 50vac at one household.
When you drill, maybe try getting so you can put 1/4" flex tube like for a swamp cooler water line. Fish your wire through and then silicone.Yeah, I think I'll drill the hole and run the wire. The sink is nearby.
But FWIW, the failed neutral wire measured 120V when checked with my meter. Zero volts against the hot wire, 120V versus ground. But this was a phantom. When I tried to light the bulb with the neutral and the ground, this pulled the 120V reading down to zero. I don't know how much load it took to draw it down, but the meter was not enough and the lightbulb was more than enough.
I was thinking along those same lines, makes me wonder if the Mullion Heater connections are wet.It sounds as though moisture has got into a terminal point and started corrosion or a termination point was not tightened sufficiently in the original assembly?
Max.
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