Refrigerator light wiring

Thread Starter

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
Hmmm... I could drill a hole out the back.

I'd still like some idea of HOW dangerous it would really be to use the ground wire. I mean, is this a clear and present danger, or just "bad form" with little - albeit not zero - real risk.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
There should be a cover plate on the back of the fridge, for the return and supply tubing for the evaporator. You don't want to hit those, it's garbage for sure if that happens.

If it's not in line with those tubes, you could run the wire over and down and drill a hole behind the control panel and out to the back of the fridge. Just silicon the hole.

I don't like the idea of it. I would be pulling the thing apart and running a new wire like #12 said. But, it is a pain in the ars.

I still like my battery powered idea:)
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,619
I'd still like some idea of HOW dangerous it would really be to use the ground wire. I mean, is this a clear and present danger, or just "bad form" with little - albeit not zero - real risk.
I believe you outlined it in post #11?
It is up to you if you want to take any risk?
Max.
 

Thread Starter

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
I don't like the idea of it. I would be pulling the thing apart and running a new wire like #12 said.
What's not to like about a hole in the back (which I think is included in what #12 suggested)? I agree that missing any freon tubing is crucial but, assuming I can do that, why not? Pulling the thing apart will risk far more damage, not to mention taking a long while and perhaps being impossible.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
What's not to like about a hole in the back (which I think is included in what #12 suggested)? I agree that missing any freon tubing is crucial but, assuming I can do that, why not? Pulling the thing apart will risk far more damage, not to mention taking a long while and perhaps being impossible.

Run with it.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
In the end, when it dies and it will. Just be done with it. What ever is easiest.

I wanted to feel out how much energy you want to put into it.

It's not worth it, start saving money now for the inevitable.
 

Thread Starter

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
I can't help but recall when I installed an indoor/outdoor thermometer years ago. I had to pass the outdoor probe out through about a foot of wall with drywall and wood on either side, and insulation in the middle. I considered all sorts of drills and alignment techniques and then realized it would save a lot of time and trouble to take another approach - I fired a 0.22 bullet through the wall. Done.

Maybe not for my refrigerator. ;)
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
I fired a 0.22 bullet through the wall. Done.

Maybe not for my refrigerator. ;)
If you could catch the bullet maybe in some kevlar, I would like to have the pics.

I'm sure they have something like that in construction. Just hit it and it punches through.

Cool Idea.
 

THE_RB

Joined Feb 11, 2008
5,438
N.A. installations do not generally have a main ELT or GFI at the service panel.
I agree it is still not good practice.
Max.
Sorry Max, my mistake, here in Australia it has been compulsory for many years to have a GFI in the main switchboard.

Mine trips often, I won't what I was doing at the time... (Cue maniacal Frankenstein laugh)

:D
 

Thread Starter

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
I believe that the codes where I live changed a year or two after my house was built. Since my tests of using the ground wire to light the bulb were successful, I'm quite sure there is no GFCI on it.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
Sorry Max, my mistake, here in Australia it has been compulsory for many years to have a GFI in the main switchboard.

Mine trips often, I won't what I was doing at the time... (Cue maniacal Frankenstein laugh)

:D
You wouldn't think so. But, when your grabbing a close handle of a fridge and turning on the sink! I measured 50vac at one household.

True Story.

I'm not comfortable knowing that, its a matter of knowing. Where will this fridge go and what will be the outcome.

Just my interpretation, GFI or not.
 

Thread Starter

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
I measured 50vac at one household.
Yeah, I think I'll drill the hole and run the wire. The sink is nearby. :eek:

But FWIW, the failed neutral wire measured 120V when checked with my meter. Zero volts against the hot wire, 120V versus ground. But this was a phantom. When I tried to light the bulb with the neutral and the ground, this pulled the 120V reading down to zero. I don't know how much load it took to draw it down, but the meter was not enough and the lightbulb was more than enough.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,619
It sounds as though moisture has got into a terminal point and started corrosion or a termination point was not tightened sufficiently in the original assembly?
Max.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
Yeah, I think I'll drill the hole and run the wire. The sink is nearby. :eek:

But FWIW, the failed neutral wire measured 120V when checked with my meter. Zero volts against the hot wire, 120V versus ground. But this was a phantom. When I tried to light the bulb with the neutral and the ground, this pulled the 120V reading down to zero. I don't know how much load it took to draw it down, but the meter was not enough and the lightbulb was more than enough.
When you drill, maybe try getting so you can put 1/4" flex tube like for a swamp cooler water line. Fish your wire through and then silicone.

I just thought it might be a little easier to get it through and will keep it away from sharp edges.
 

killivolt

Joined Jan 10, 2010
835
It sounds as though moisture has got into a terminal point and started corrosion or a termination point was not tightened sufficiently in the original assembly?
Max.
I was thinking along those same lines, makes me wonder if the Mullion Heater connections are wet.

I'd be interested to see what he would get from a screw on the cabinet to the kitchen faucet, providing the pluming is all metal.
 
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