Hello all.

I'm looking for some assistance with a circuit for a reed switch driven light switch. Let me start off by saying that I'm brand new to designing electronics so go easy on me.

I'm in the process of making a lighted jewelry cabinet for my wife and I want the lights to be controlled by a reed switch inside the door of the cabinet. Open the door and the lights come on, close the door and they shut off, like a refrigerator .

My idea is to have a N/O reed switch that controls an SPDT relay where the N/C side of the relay is connected to an LED strip that lights the cabinet. See crude diagram below....

Now here's my 2.... maybe 3 questions.

1. Am I even close?

2. Is there anything I need to add between the input side of the reed switch and the power source to keep it from burning up?
3. I was hoping to use a solid state relay so that I don't hear a click when the cabinet door opens. How do I know what relay specs I need?

Sorry for the crude diagram.

Reed Switch - http://www.clrwtr.com/PDF/GE-Security/Sentrol-R1075-Press-Fit-Mini-Max-Contacts.pdf

LED Strip - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cool-Wh...2V-/181135629221?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

Wall Wart - Came with the LED Strip

Possible Relay ???

Anything else ???

Thanks a ton in advance.

Jake

 

I don't know where you will find a 72W wallwart except maybe a laptop charger.
Why not eliminate the relay and use a switch alone with the proper current rating?

 

The wall wart was purchased in the same auction as the LED strip. I don't have the specs on it other than what was posted in the auction. I'll have it probably tomorrow to look at it.

I haven't been able to find a reed switch that is form b (NC) that is rated for 3A. I'm pretty new to electronics so maybe I just don't know what to look for.

 

I think a single switch such as this "snap action limit switch" would be better, allowing you to drop the relay and the power it would waste in the majority of the time when the box is closed. If you find one with the right ratings, it could even switch the wall wart on, so it would be off most of the time.

 

Here is an example of a switch rated for 5A:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SS-5GL13/SW871-ND/369879

 

If you switch the AC, the current rating can be much lower.