I realise that; but which way do you have it configured? This could affect the design of a circuit to give the solution you're looking for.The ELK can be configured for either positive or negative triggers
I realise that; but which way do you have it configured? This could affect the design of a circuit to give the solution you're looking for.The ELK can be configured for either positive or negative triggers
Please correct me if I did not understand your question.
You have a pulse the moment the pulse exists you want an output like 12V.
When no pulse the output will go to low after a certain time (say 10 seconds).
This implies that:
When a pulse arrives within the selected time the output is high.
If this is what you want take a counter and count to whatever seconds you want.
Reset counter with the pulse.
That's all.
Picbuster
yeah that would also work, thankyou! I will take a look at those.Maybe add an oil pressure switch?
https://www.stewartwarner.com/produ...itches/?fwp_type_2_checkboxes=pressure-switch
I don't have it configured either way currently.I realise that; but which way do you have it configured? This could affect the design of a circuit to give the solution you're looking for.
I'd like to, but as i explained in the original post, there are issues. They dont make the fuel pump module any longer, the bits in it aren't really serviceable or replaceable and they are hard to find 2nd hand, and cost a bomb - at which point it's a reasonable alternative to just re-fuel the car with new components. expensive and messy. Same story for the PCM, nothing servicable, just a $2K replacement, IF you can find one.Why not get the check valve fixed and repair the PCM as needed? I am fairly certain both of these are attainable. The check valve that prevents fuel from draining from the lines is sure to be found on other models or a reasonable facsimile and there are several places that repair PCMs or do it yourself. This all sounds like a lot of work for such a nice car.
Maybe add an oil pressure switch?
https://www.stewartwarner.com/produ...itches/?fwp_type_2_checkboxes=pressure-switch
fair enough - and yes I would pursue a repair option before replacement, obviously.. it just seems to me that this is the easiest solution to go after right now. Theres a whole story around why this happened (previous owner having sub box made and permanently installed in front of the rear fuse/relay box) and how I took 5 steps backwards by trying to work around it (and breaking PCM) but its not really worth repeating as i ended up taking apart the whole rear of the car anyway.The PCM can be repaired. There are reputable companies out there that will repair it and make it good as new. I have salvaged many PCMs by doing board level repairs. I am not sure where you are but I am sure someone close can do this.
As for the check valve which I am assuming is the culprit of your problem, I am sure that if someone made it, someone else can duplicate it. Machine shop etc.
I get what you are saying but it seems like such a nice car to go bypassing systems and probably creating more problems. If it was a common everyday $2000 beater, I would be right there with you. What year and engine is in this Viper?
thanks. Yeah it seems from this thread there are certainly a few ways to solve the problem. That seems like a easy solution (along with the ELK for the inital prime) if I can't get the PCM sorted out.I know nothing about American GM ECUs but do know that the problem that you have is very common on European GM models too. Our ECUs are a hybrid without discreet components where the circuits are mainly etched on to a ceramic substrate and covered in a thick gel. Connections are made with tiny wires spotwelded onto the circuit board. More often then not they are impossible to repair.
Long time ago back in the late 70's early 90's Bosch K-Jet cars had an electronic relay to power the fuel pump which functioned exactly as you described . It took it's pulse from the ignition coil, points side. You could easily take a pulse from an ignition coil or one of the injectors.
VW K-Jet Pump relay is part Number 321906059F, they are still widely available. There are also several circuit diagrams on the internet if you wish to make your own, but it is rarely worth the effort as they can be purchased online for about $16-00
Below is the LTspice of a reasonably simple circuit that should do what you want.
The relay turns off about a second after the pulses stop.
That time can be varied by changing the value of R1 and/or C1.
View attachment 163078
I think its:What is the part number on the PCM for that car?
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz