protoboard

Thread Starter

matty204359

Joined Apr 6, 2011
105
I need to whip up a small circuit and was going to buy some small protoboards from a suppler in my region. I'm faced with a dilemma on my purchase. they stock 2 different kinds but give no comparison between the two

here are the links
Heliotype
EPOXY


Does any body know of any difference in regards to functionality, safety or usage between the two types Heliotype and EPOXY. I noticed the color difference and price difference so no need to mention those.
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
I've used both. The green one is more modern, and I think it's fiberglass. The brown one is a material that I can't think of the name right now, but they work the same for me. I wouldn't pay any attention to the difference. When this response bumps the thread to the top, somebody else might remember the material that the brown boards are made of.

In the low frequency, low voltage world I live in, there is no difference.
 

Kermit2

Joined Feb 5, 2010
4,162
It is a paper/epoxy based "Garolite". There are many types with different substrates and epoxy mixtures. The green fiberglass one is also a Garolite subtype. I'm sure there are other brand names than Garolite, but google Garolite and see what you get. IF you are interested.
 

radiohead

Joined May 28, 2009
514
The type you use is a personal preference. The fiberglass/epoxy type is easier to cut to size as the other type is more brittle and doesn't cut well.

Capacitance between pads and other external factors are negligible. If you are making a prototype, your choice of board is irrelevant. However, with RF circuits, some stages should be shielded from other stages for obvious reasons. You should encase your RF project in a metal enclosure if possible. Otherwise plastic would be fine.
 
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#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
Thank you, radiohead. I have not cut a green board yet, but I can attest to the fact that the brown boards do throw chips when you hacksaw them with the finest teeth you can get (about 24 tpi). That's why I cut brown boards through the holes of the row I won't need and finish them on the grinder.

I will soon find out because I only have about 2 projects worth of brown board left.
 

radiohead

Joined May 28, 2009
514
You can use a hack saw, band saw, coping saw, or even trim a piece with lineman's pliers. If you file or sand the fiberglass type, I highly recommend you use a filter mask to protect your lungs from the fine fiberglass particulates (the dust)
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
matty: Can you jump over into Detroit? In the US there is a company called "Radio Shack" that still sells a limited number of component parts. They have boards similar to the "brown" board style. You can check which store has what parts online.

Despite some drawbacks I still prefer these boards for my breadboards, and while these boards are designed for thru hole devices they can be useful for surface mount parts too. (I actually prefer to work in surface mount parts.)

I agree with the rough cut then sand edge method of cutting. It will just look nicer. However, I usually use a whole board in my work.

Vector makes some first class prototyping boards but they are quite expensive.
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
Yes, surface mount parts will work on these boards. It looks so slick to build a 100ma battery charger in half a square inch because the caps are surface mount tantalums and nobody can see the back of the board.

ps, love the pronunciation of your city. Some Noo Yawkers actually sound like that.
 
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