Protoboard Soldering

Thread Starter

DRock

Joined May 7, 2011
68
Hey everyone,

I have the WLC100 soldering station which is found at this link:

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/bran...ing Stations&att2=Consumer Soldering Stations

I also have a bunch of components such as ic holders, caps, and resistors that I want to solder onto some protoboard that I got from Radioshack like this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102843#

The problem I am having is I cannot solder the ic chip holder good enough so that the solder wets correctly and makes a good connection without overflowing to the next hole. I just bought a new pencil tip and tried it out but the outcome was only marginally better.

This is my first time working with something like this and I just keep getting frustrated because my soldering is holding me back from moving forward.

Any tips would be appreciated, maybe I need a smaller diameter solder wire...?

Thanks for any help.
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
30,708
What is the diameter of your solder? Provide us with the full part number of the solder.
Have you learned the proper technique for soldering?
 

Thread Starter

DRock

Joined May 7, 2011
68
Solder is 0.062" measured with my micrometer and the link is here:

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=2005171

I have soldered a bunch of stuff in the past but not many PCBs or boards such as this. I know you have to get both metals hot and wick the solder to the joint and it should flow easily but I am not sure how to prevent the components from overheating and getting damaged. Even still, I am having a tough time consolidating the solder to a single hole.
 

wb2vsj

Joined Feb 19, 2012
7
Is the protoboard tarnished? If it's been sitting around a while you will need to polish off the oxidation. You need a nice clean and shiny surface to solder too. I can't speak to how good these ROHS, no-lead solders are, I still use the lead based solders.

Try using a little soldering flux (NOT the acid paste for plumbing!)
 

DerStrom8

Joined Feb 20, 2011
2,390
Personally, I use .032" rosin core solder for my projects. It's not too big and the amount put on the joint is quite easy to control. I have even used .01" before. A bit difficult to handle, but you definitely don't get too much at once ;)

Anyway, it's really important that you have a properly-tinned soldering iron. You'll need to tin it AS it's heating up, NOT when it's already hot. Otherwise, it will start globbing on and won't make a good joint. Also make sure you don't touch the solder directly to the iron to get it onto the joint. That's a good way to get cold solder joints, which make a real mess of the board. Flux should help, but make sure your iron is properly tinned. Also, what is the wattage of your iron? Anything higher than 25 watt is absolutely unnecessary in most electronic applications. An iron that is too hot can lead to damaged parts and bad joints. Just a few more things to consider ;)

Regards
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
I happen to really like and frequently use RS proto boards for my breadboards.

They seldom come in ready to use, they need to be cleaned before use. I use some fine steel wool and lightly scrub the metal till it is all shiny again.
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
30,708
Maybe the board has a protective coating to prevent tarnish. If so, clean it with acetone. This should be done in a well ventilated area.
 

KMoffett

Joined Dec 19, 2007
2,918
I'm with ErnieM. I use them too. Always buff the the whole copper copper side with 0000 steel wool, or very lightly with 320 sand paper before you start inserting leads.

Ken
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
As DerStom said, .062 solder is plumbing solder size, get the smaller diameter solder made for electronics and make life easier. And like the others said clean the places you want the solder to bond to.
 

elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
Lots of good info posted already, so in a nutshell, I think the solder you're using is too big for your application and lead-free is, as I understand it, unfriendly to work with at best . . .

I recommend a lead-based solder such as 60/40 with a diameter of 0.020" to 0.032" such as this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...nSession=1&filterName=Type&filterValue=Solder

Your iron looks good, just be sure you're using the right-sized tip. I'd recommend a screwdriver tip with a width of about 0.062" like an ST1: http://www.cooperhandtools.com/bran...d=WEL007&att1=Tips and Nozzles&att2=ST Series

You don't want to go much smaller than that (don't use a tiny needlepoint tip) nor much bigger. Too small and you'll never get a good joint, if any; too big and you'll take the traces off.

Try the #3 or #4 setting for the heat.

Good luck!
 

Thread Starter

DRock

Joined May 7, 2011
68
Thanks a bunch! I just got back from Radioshack and got 62 Sn/36 Pb/2 Ag rosin-core solder and 99.2 Sn/.3 Ag/ .5 Cu lead-free solder. I am also unfortunately using the ST7 tip but I don't want to order another because last time it took like a month to come.

I am going to try to scrub the surfaces and hit it with the iron at 3-4 and see how it turns out.

Which of these two would be the better solder to use?

Thanks for all the replies!
 

DerStrom8

Joined Feb 20, 2011
2,390
Thanks a bunch! I just got back from Radioshack and got 62 Sn/36 Pb/2 Ag rosin-core solder and 99.2 Sn/.3 Ag/ .5 Cu lead-free solder. I am also unfortunately using the ST7 tip but I don't want to order another because last time it took like a month to come.

I am going to try to scrub the surfaces and hit it with the iron at 3-4 and see how it turns out.

Which of these two would be the better solder to use?

Thanks for all the replies!
Lead-free solder is hard to use because it doesn't melt as easily as leaded solder. I'd go with the 62/36/2, though personally I'd recommend using basic 60/40. The 62/36/2 should be ok though.
 

Thread Starter

DRock

Joined May 7, 2011
68
I just tried the lead solder and wow the joints are all perfect! So much easier with this new solder and at the 4 heat setting.

Haha I started to think I was going crazy for a second because my soldering was so bad.
 

DerStrom8

Joined Feb 20, 2011
2,390
I just tried the lead solder and wow the joints are all perfect! So much easier with this new solder and at the 4 heat setting.

Haha I started to think I was going crazy for a second because my soldering was so bad.
Hahaha, well I'm glad things worked out for you :D

Good luck, and happy soldering!
 

wb2vsj

Joined Feb 19, 2012
7
I just tried the lead solder and wow the joints are all perfect! So much easier with this new solder and at the 4 heat setting.

Haha I started to think I was going crazy for a second because my soldering was so bad.
Lead free solder has introduced a whole new bees nest of issues from manufacturing to long term reliability. Makes for some interesting reading.
 

bountyhunter

Joined Sep 7, 2009
2,512
I am going to try to scrub the surfaces
There is a trick to soldering bare copper: if you buff it shiny, it will solder but it oxidizes rapidly. The best trick is to buff the whole board shiny bright and spray it with a light coat of clear urethane or lacquer. It keeps the copper from oxidizing as the soldering iron heats the board. It comes off easily when defluxing with acetone.
 

DerStrom8

Joined Feb 20, 2011
2,390
There is a trick to soldering bare copper: if you buff it shiny, it will solder but it oxidizes rapidly. The best trick is to buff the whole board shiny bright and spray it with a light coat of clear urethane or lacquer. It keeps the copper from oxidizing as the soldering iron heats the board. It comes off easily when defluxing with acetone.
Not to mention it also releases toxic fumes when the lacquer burns :rolleyes::p
 
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