When I make my own pcb, I solder the components then spray clear polyurethane or lacquer to stop the copper from tarnishing. If the circuit is going to be used in harsh environments, I spray conformal coating instead.

 

I'm a bit late in joining this conversation but I use a green Scotchbrite with soap and water to polish new circuit boards. The green ones are sold in (food) supermarkets for washing dishes, therefore easy to find and buy, quickly. Follow up with a hair dryer to get the board dry.
Krylon clear to protect finished boards.

ps, this isn't some random method I dreamed up. I learned it at work. Sometimes a board would have too much conductance and the hair dryer method would get the humidity out of it.

 

Some very good tips in here, I look forward to trying a few.

I just finished up my first ever protoboard circuit of about 50 joints and I am quite pleased with the results. It does not function correctly but the joints all look superb and I am positive the problem does not lie in the soldering, but in my messing up the circuit somewhere.

It is very easy to consolidate the solder to a single thru-hole so that it will not spread over to the next one, I am very pleased.

Now to troubleshoot the circuit...and the fun begins!

EDIT: I think I am finally getting the hang of this electronics things...I just broke out the DMM and managed to fix the problem in 15 minutes. Wow that is a relief...it usually goes a lot tougher than that haha.

 

Some very good tips in here, I look forward to trying a few.

I just finished up my first ever protoboard circuit of about 50 joints and I am quite pleased with the results. It does not function correctly but the joints all look superb and I am positive the problem does not lie in the soldering, but in my messing up the circuit somewhere.

It is very easy to consolidate the solder to a single thru-hole so that it will not spread over to the next one, I am very pleased.

Now to troubleshoot the circuit...and the fun begins!

EDIT: I think I am finally getting the hang of this electronics things...I just broke out the DMM and managed to fix the problem in 15 minutes. Wow that is a relief...it usually goes a lot tougher than that haha.

Congrats! Glad to hear of your success

 

Fixing your own mistakes often becomes a "Can't see the forest for the trees" problem. A lot more difficult that finding somebody else's mistake!

Congrats to you

 

Years ago I gave up on Weller irons because the tips were too large for this sort of thing. I then went to Hakko because of their tip. I have found several of their irons used at very reasonable prices.

http://www.hakkousa.com/products.asp?CID=192,212,213

 

I have a Weller "chisel" tip that is 1/16th of an inch wide and another Weller tip that is "conical" which means it ends with a point. They fit my 23 watt and 35 watt heater elements for "pencil" style soldering irons.

These are small enough for my needs.

I say this because I have used a Weller pencil style soldering iron for 35 years and only ruined 2 tips in that amount of time. I can't understand "giving up" on Weller brand soldering irons and soldering guns. Weller makes bigger stuff, too. For instance, my Weller 240 watt soldering gun will attach a wire to a galvanized steel chasis!

Any bigger than that and I use a propane powered soldering tip. Good enough for battery cable size wiring.

 

If you're really serious about soldering, Weller is a great brand. They have a wide range of iron types and are very rugged. I've never had a problem using a Weller. The only issue I have with weller is that they can be somewhat expensive. If you're only soldering as a small part of your hobby, there's no need to buy a high-tech Weller soldering station for over $150. I bought a $7 15W pencil type iron from RadioShack, and it's working great. If tinned and cleaned properly, it's pretty much impossible to burn a tip of one of those things. I get along as well with my $7 iron than some people get along with their $200 Weller. Consider your options before buying any soldering iron. In most cases, you don't need anything special.

 

I been using this temperature controlled Weller for years, it's been great, I have the various size tips for any job, it was over $150 but it's worth it.
Those other 15W pencil types never lasted that long with me. I think I was too rough on them.

 

I guess I should mention that the best way to wreck a Weller soldering gun is to drop it and break the plastic case. That is annoying and I wish Weller would put better cases on their soldering guns.

I have never bought a "soldering station" or an adjustable temperature device because I do just fine with my constant wattage soldering irons. If I ever meet a situation where my skills aren't enough, than I would consider a variable temperature rig.