When you print on photo paper or Fab in a box paper, is it pretty much one sheet per board?

Or do you cut the paper size as needed first then print on that?

Seems it would get awfully expensive if one 8x10 per board.

I have yet to try printing on non standard sized paper in my printer. My manual feed does not work so well.

 

Usually you want as many per page as you can get if your paying a lot for the medium. When you commercially print things the sheets come in like 24 x 48 inch sheets(I'm pulling these numbers out of my head). Then that breaks down into a bunch of 8x11 books, or 7.5 x 5 books. If you ask for a special book thats not journal, or magazine size they charge you way more because they have to waste so much paper using an odd size. The actually have an app that does it and spits out a price for em.

You could always print it as a full 8x11 then cut out your circuit. As long as you know where your printing you should be able to keep printing on that page as long as you have 1 full 8 inch side. Or you could glue it to a peice of paper as backing, but still make sure you keep a full 8 inch side going into the printer or it will jam. Also you want your cuts to resemble an inverted triangle as your printing and cutting off sections. This way it won't jam. Also save your print files for positions on your page so you know where to print. If you save it as one big image you can just omit stuff you already cut and add where space is.

 

How many PCBs do you make? I almost always print multiple copies (make special sheets for it) so I have another transfer around if (when) I screw up.

Wax paper is very, very cheap, which is one reason I use it. I tape the leading edge, and fold the side over a conventional sheet of paper.

 

Why not use photoresist?

I print on regular paper, pouring on some vegatable oil and then I'm set.

The oil makes the UV go throu the paper. Cost of regular paper is way beneath the cost of photo paper.

I know. This is another method.

(Bought the UV leds on Ebay, learned to use the 555 timer from Bill Marsden, and ripped out the iventory of a flatbed scanner. Totalt cost, not so much. )

 

That's really cool, nerdegutta. Do you get pitted copper when you etch from the UV going through the toner/ink?

 

That's really cool, nerdegutta.

Thanks.

Do you get pitted copper when you etch from the UV going through the toner/ink?

Eh... Don't quite understand what you mean. Pitted?

 

Dimples... little holes.. not smooth.

 

Dimples... little holes.. not smooth.

Oh that. No, it's smooth. After drilling holes, I clean it with Aceton. Then its ready for soldering.

 

Wax paper is very, very cheap, which is one reason I use it. I tape the leading edge, and fold the side over a conventional sheet of paper.

I am not sure I get the wax paper thing. Can you explain? You feed this through your LJ? Doesn't it mess it up?

 

I've fed everything from 4x6 photo paper to very thin transparencies through the printers at work without problems.

The biggest thing to remember is to go into the advanced settings of the printer driver (in windows) to tell it that you will be feeding it thin/thick paper, and what size. It adjusts the rollers and fuser temp to match.

Not all printers allow this level of adjustment though. Most color laser printers I've run across do. I only use black when printing for PCB even on a color printer.

 

Too late tonight, but I'll post pictures tomorrow.

I came across the idea at this site. Ron was the creator, his avatar name is different there, though the avatar picture is the same.

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/...4601-diy-toner-transfer-paper-cheap-easy.html