I moved into a new place and there's a minor electrical issue. When the bathroom fan is turned off, the speakers connected to my TV make a popping noise. I assume this can't be great for the TV or other electronics connected to that outlet. I was looking at a power line conditioner (http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC...578140&sr=8-1&keywords=power+line+conditioner) but am wondering whether it would work for the type of issue I'm describing. Also, how do these things work? I assume it's not just some capacitors since it also regulates voltage in the event of over/undervoltages. Are there less expensive ones that only deal with quick, transient problems like I'm having (since over/undervoltage isn't a problem here).

 

Try replacing the fan...
Could be a bad fan with sparking field windings....
If you rent - it is a "landlords" responsibility.
Just remember the phrase "Health and Safety Issues" or better "Fire Safety Issues".
Dave
Phoenix, AZ

 

Would that most likely be the only reason something like that would happen? I know when I've played with (DC) motors in circuits, I always use a diode to prevent the motor from dumping current into the circuit when it's shut off, could it just be something like that? The reason I'm hesitant to complain to the landlady is because she's already had to make a bunch of repairs here and I'd only want to bother her if it's truly a safety issue. If it's just an annoying click in my speakers, the power line conditioner would be my first choice (assuming it does what I'm hoping it does).

 

Another spot to check is the wall switch.

Does this line noise problem happen everywhere in the house, for every light switch, or just the bathroom fan switch?


It is possible for decades-old power switches to slowly arc, pit, and erode the contacts so that the contact points are rough and high resistance. Every time it is turned off there is not a clean sudden break, but a brief dancing buzzing of many small arcs across the worn-out contacts as they move apart.

If a light/fan switch handle is ever warmer than the wall around it after being on for a while, that is Rather Bad because the high-resistance worn contacts are heating up the switch inside the wall even in the fully On position. Fires can occur this way.


The switch itself is cheap to replace, but depending on where you are, a licensed electrician may be needed to replace it. But the landlords also may be able to do the work themselves in ten minutes, since it's just 3 screws and turning off the power to do the work.

USA 15 amp light switch, less than 1 dollar:
http://www.menards.com/main/electri...lmond-single-pole-switch/p-1778800-c-6324.htm

 

I have fixed this problem with a ceiling fan whose speed is controlled with a tapped inductor. Get a .1uf, power line rated capacitor and place it across the switch contacts. Thus you attack the problem at the transmitter, not the receiver.