I thought the DPDT and the 4PDT where the same. Can you provide me with a drawing to explain the difference...Thanks Strantor, I have already purchased a DPDT, but i may go ahead and get this also just to play with and learn something new.

 

So I just looked over this 4DPT, it was the only diagram I could find.
If I'm understanding correctly, one coil activates four connections.

 

So I just looked over this 4DPT, it was the only diagram I could find.
If I'm understanding correctly, one coil activates four connections.

correct. a DPDT has 1 coil and 2 sets of contacts. a 4PDT has 1 coil and 4 sets of contacts

 

I like that switch, looks real nice. Do I need a weather proof switch, due to it being mounted to the bottom of my chicken house. I don't know if humidity will affect it. Also With the window Motor I plan to install it where the regulator is all the way open (will be closed) and all the way closed (is open) I believe they have a max point then the motor kinda stalls out. But that is something to take into consideration.
Whats the difference in this cheap Switch and the one you suggested besides the way it is activated/deactivated...

 

Others I found....
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Screw-Terminals-Button-Actuator-AC-Basic-Limit-Switch-/370529749173?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56454b48b5
http://cgi.ebay.com/BERNSTEIN-LIMIT-SWITCH-608-1185-009-1-NO-1-NC-/220822893930?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336a11f56a
http://cgi.ebay.com/AZ-7144-Short-Roller-Hinge-Lever-Micro-Limit-Switch-/270776832598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0b8e9256
http://cgi.ebay.com/ME-8111-Machine-Position-Limit-Switch-w-Top-Pin-Plunger-/160627620490?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256626fa8a

 

I like that switch, looks real nice. Do I need a weather proof switch, due to it being mounted to the bottom of my chicken house. I don't know if humidity will affect it. Also With the window Motor I plan to install it where the regulator is all the way open (will be closed) and all the way closed (is open) I believe they have a max point then the motor kinda stalls out. But that is something to take into consideration.
Whats the difference in this cheap Switch and the one you suggested besides the way it is activated/deactivated...

that switch and the other 3 except for the bernstein one are like I was talking about, easy to crush. A good application for these types is like a microwave door. The door can only shut so far, so there's no risk of crushing the limit switch. in an application like your which is more likely to be "free moving" (for lack of a better term, I hope you understand me) I would suggest one like the wobble arm or like that bernstein one where the switch itself does not need to be in the path of the moving object, just that little arm sticking out.

another application for these switches other than microwave door scenarios is like with an inclined plane or a cam see below

 

your 3rd link in post #65 is a specialty switch that is meant to be setup in a manner similar to which I drew. it will activate in one direction only. in the opposite direction the little appendage with the wheel will fold over and not activate the switch

 

I like that switch, looks real nice. Do I need a weather proof switch, due to it being mounted to the bottom of my chicken house. I don't know if humidity will affect it.

the olholm wobble switch I linked to is waterproof. it's rated IP66, which is one level below submersible; it's rated for direct contact from high pressure water jets. more info in IP and NEMA ratings.

That is all of course assuming that you are running your wires into it using liquid tight conduit, which I doubt you will. if you run unprotected wires into it, I would recommend at least sealing the opening with silicone.


EDIT: on second look, the olholm switch looks like it comes with some sort of gland on it. if you ran an "extension cord" type cable into it, it would probably create a seal. but it would not create a seal if, for example, you ran 2 14AWG wires into it

 

this type is my favorite. just mount it where something, anything, will contact that little wobble arm and the switch switches; no worries about crushing it; very versatile

I'm going to stick with your suggestion...Thanks for all the information...I would still be wasting time and not making progress if it wasn't for you guys....

 

I'm going to stick with your suggestion...Thanks for all the information...I would still be wasting time and not making progress if it wasn't for you guys....

DISCLAIMER: I have never used that specific limit switch or that brand. this is the limit switch I order (because the company pays, money isn't a factor and I get the good stuff); I get them new from Allied Electronics and I think I pay about 90$ apiece for them. The one in the link works the same way; only difference is the quality. the ones I buy can be expected to last for decades; I don't see any reason why that cheapo one wouldn't last for a few years too.

EDIT: they've upped the price to 145$. maybe I should start ordering from ebay.....

 

I completely understand you get what you pay for...I would have a hard time justifying to myself and wife that I spent 300 on two limit switches for a chicken coop...With that said do you have any suggested ways to wire in an alarm, and by pass just in case something goes wrong...and its pitch black out side....So I will be notified and also have a quick way to seal up the coop.

 

Everything is on order and on the way....I received the limit switches today....I noticed they can be wired to be NO or NC...I know I will wire them NC in the current set up. I was wondering Can I wire led lights to the NO connection to give me an indicator to tell me if the switch has been hit or not. I was thinking one with red and one with green....Do I need anything else besides one red and one green led. Any resistors...Thanks guys I can't wait to make this thing happen...

 

Everything is on order and on the way....I received the limit switches today....I noticed they can be wired to be NO or NC...I know I will wire them NC in the current set up. I was wondering Can I wire led lights to the NO connection to give me an indicator to tell me if the switch has been hit or not. I was thinking one with red and one with green....Do I need anything else besides one red and one green led. Any resistors...Thanks guys I can't wait to make this thing happen...

Yes for a 12V you may use a 1k resistor in series, gives you a bit more than 10mA for the LED. It depends also on the LED, there are so many choices, High Power LEDs etc. The one I'm talking about is a common one.

 

I just want an indicator light, that uses minimal power. cheap is a plus and available at radio shack is a plus...I need a red and green....Can you show me what you mean my series..The Limit switch I got has options to wire for both NO and NC...I plan to use the NC for the door motor and the NO for the LEDs, One per limit switch will do...Thanks praondevou...I know there is a long leg and a short on the leds, how do I know which way to wire the resistor? What are the specs for the Led you suggest, so I know which one to get.

 

So I got everything to put this together. I wired everything as drawn above. My dpdt burnt out as soon as I hooked it up..I'm wondering if i need a larger amp ratting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=370524985069&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2570wt_961 This is the DPDT I used...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370524985069&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2570wt_961 These are the limit switches I used...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220818551187&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 This is the timer...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTIMA-MAXIMA-Power-Window-Regulator-w-Motor-LH-REAR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d2126839946098109628QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ220813614393#ht_2811wt_914 This is the motor regulator...I got if for free.( >PBT-GF30< MITSUBA)

Not sure what to do....
The number 8 pin burnt up on the dpdt 8 pin= neg power into switches...
Also the coil didn't close the connection...after installing the relay I noticed it says 24V...So I'm guessing the 12V battery didn't have enough power to close the circuit....After noticing this I looked back at the item description and it says 12v, but in the details it mentions 24V....
Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated...

 

Did i get the right limit switch? I am running all this off a 12V marine battery http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_12-Volt-Marine-RV-Starting-Maintenance-Free-Battery-Autocraft-Marine_2080001-P_N3583_A%7CGRP60054_____#fragment-2

 

So I got everything to put this together. I wired everything as drawn above.

Sorry, I don't see any drawing. Where is it?

 

So I got everything to put this together. I wired everything as drawn above. My dpdt burnt out as soon as I hooked it up..I'm wondering if i need a larger amp ratting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=370524985069&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2570wt_961 This is the DPDT I used...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2570wt_961 These are the limit switches I used...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 This is the timer...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTI...dZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ220813614393#ht_2811wt_914 This is the motor regulator...I got if for free.( >PBT-GF30< MITSUBA)

Not sure what to do....
The number 8 pin burnt up on the dpdt 8 pin= neg power into switches...
Also the coil didn't close the connection...after installing the relay I noticed it says 24V...So I'm guessing the 12V battery didn't have enough power to close the circuit....After noticing this I looked back at the item description and it says 12v, but in the details it mentions 24V....
Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated...

did you use the drawing in post #38? If so, I will need further clarification on the statement "8 pin= neg power into switches..." because there should be no single relay terminal attached to both switches.

You provided the wrong link to the relay. what is the amp rating on it? how many amps does the motor draw (loaded)?

when you buy another relay, make sure it says 12V (on the relay, before you hook it up).

 

did you use the drawing in post #38? If so, I will need further clarification on the statement "8 pin= neg power into switches..." because there should be no single relay terminal attached to both switches.

You provided the wrong link to the relay. what is the amp rating on it? how many amps does the motor draw (loaded)?

when you buy another relay, make sure it says 12V (on the relay, before you hook it up).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220818836324&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1852wt_972 This should be the correct relay link...

I'm not sure what the load is from the motor...I can't find any specs. Another person mentioned the motors draw 2 to 3 amps.

 

I did use the drawing #38 I'm double checking all my connections now...