Please I need an explanation on how to do dc analysis for MOSFET

 

I may just start running the field coils on 24v and check the temp after riding a fixed distance to see if the motor is hotter or cooler. Either way it takes long enough to heat up that I can get several hill climbs done, cool down for 5 minutes and repeat. My batteries allow me to do this about 4 times before they can't push me up the hill. At that point I just head home and charge up.

 

I just scored a 5hp golf cart electric motor, so this generator is probably going to sit on the shelf for a while.

 

Sounds like the way to go. Do you plan on using the rated voltage for it?

 

Sounds like the way to go. Do you plan on using the rated voltage for it?

No I don't, it's 24v and I plan to use 36v or 48v for short bursts. I loaded it up at 48v and it didn't even get warm.

 

I may even end up using 60 volts as a kind of turbo boost for short periods, followed by letting it spin without load for the fan to cool it off.

 

Is it PM or wound field? Early ones were W.F.
What the concern is using >x2 the voltage is you may exceed the safe or rated maximum rpm of the motor.
A rough guide for motor of this type are 2000rpm tops.
Max.

 

Is it PM or wound field? Early ones were W.F.
What the concern is using >x2 the voltage is you may exceed the safe or rated maximum rpm of the motor.
A rough guide for motor of this type are 2000rpm tops.
Max.

PM field although it has 2 extra terminals I can't figure out, that appear to be shorted to each other. Its rated at 3600rpm and I plan to only use large overvoltage to boost torque for short periods while going up hill, once it reaches its normal 36v speed I drop the voltage back down. I've run 24 volt 4000rpm motors on 60 volts in the past and never had an explosive failure even when free spinning with no load.

 

I would then stop at the top of the hill and make sure the motor is at a safe temp. I'll probably modify a digital oven temp gauge to take the temp of the inside of the motor casing.

 

PM field although it has 2 extra terminals I can't figure out, that appear to be shorted to each other..

If they measure zero ohms, they are most likely a thermal detection switch, in case of overheat they open up.
Max.

 

I would then stop at the top of the hill and make sure the motor is at a safe temp. I'll probably modify a digital oven temp gauge to take the temp of the inside of the motor casing.

What's a good safe limit to stop at in terms of heat on the inside of the casing on the side opposite the fan in F?

 

If they measure zero ohms, they are most likely a thermal detection switch, in case of overheat they open up.
Max.

Any way to test this without having to overheat the motor?

 

Any way to test this without having to overheat the motor?

Non that I can think of, short of tracing the wires back by inspection etc. The bi-metal contacts are only opened by heat.
It is fairly certain if they show 0 Ohms, that is what it is.
Max.

 

Non that I can think of, short of tracing the wires back by inspection etc. The bi-metal contacts are only opened by heat.
It is fairly certain if they show 0 Ohms, that is what it is.
Max.

If that's what they are it's very convenient, I'll just run them in series with the motor, and I won't have to worry about burning up the motor on hills any more. I'll check later today.

 

If that's what they are it's very convenient, I'll just run them in series with the motor, and I won't have to worry about burning up the motor on hills any more. I'll check later today.

Keep in mind they are not usually made to carry very high current, they often are used back to the motor controller to disable the controlling element.
Max.

 

Keep in mind they are not usually made to carry very high current, they often are used back to the motor controller to disable the controlling element.
Max.

Good thinking I'll run them to a light by the steering wheel and shut down when it goes off or maybe to a relay so the light comes on when the motor overheats.