Need help! Identify a capacitor

hwy101

Joined May 23, 2009
91
AC voltage in Israel is on the European standard, 220v, 50hz so make sure you get a cap that's rated at least 250v AC just like the original.
 

Thread Starter

sitran12

Joined May 29, 2009
13
Sure I will, my problem right now is whether that cap is an X, Y or X1Y2, and whether I need a 2-leaded or 3-leaded cap :)
 

hwy101

Joined May 23, 2009
91
By the looks of your schematic you should go with the 3 lead grounded cap, it's basically the same setup as a cap that you can buy for an automotive ignition coil to reduce noise on you car radio.
 

Thread Starter

sitran12

Joined May 29, 2009
13
By the looks of your schematic you should go with the 3 lead grounded cap, it's basically the same setup as a cap that you can buy for an automotive ignition coil to reduce noise on you car radio.
Thanks,
I'm not much of an automotive ignition expert :)
can you point me to a datasheet or url for such a capacitor? did you mean an
X2Y cap or just a grounded Y cap?
 

Thread Starter

sitran12

Joined May 29, 2009
13
ok guys, better pics of the pedal and capacitor:
(you can see the grounding and that the right side lead has popped out)

pedal:


capacitor (and my curious spaniel nosing about :) ):



So, to sum things up - what kind of cap do I need to replace it with?
datasheets / url's will be best.

thanks!!
 

R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,918
pish posh...:p
What's all the fuss about a silly capacitor.
It's a line filter capacitor, it's a paper capacitor and is used to suppress the noise generated when the pedal is pressed, and also prevent arcing across the carbon with in the pedal. the pedal consists of carbon discs, loosely fitted and when the pedal is pressed the carbon presses against each other, this generates noise. This is where the cap comes into play. This type of capacitor has a high value of surge voltage capability..
Just get a paper cap or induction motor starting cap rated properly and you'll be fine. I do these kind of things all the time.
Please do not use any different type since those ones cannot withstand back EMF from the motor.



Rifaa
 

hwy101

Joined May 23, 2009
91
carbon disks???
what planet are you from Rifaa?
all modern day sewing machines use resistance wire wound foot pedals.
Did I miss something? :eek:
 

Thread Starter

sitran12

Joined May 29, 2009
13
carbon disks???
what planet are you from Rifaa?
all modern day sewing machines use resistance wire wound foot pedals.
Did I miss something? :eek:
Actually they ARE carbon discs. This machine is 30 years old and when I opened the white thingy inside this is exactly what I saw. Cheers Rifaa :D
All the fuss is because I got around 15 different answers ;)

Guys, take a look at my thread here:
This guy also helped me out, and from what I understand I need an X or Y line filter. (maybe double Y filters as he suggested):

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7177&goto=newpost

Rifaa, can you point me to a datasheet or more specific details about the surge voltage (I'm not a capacitor expert)?

thanks guys,
 

hwy101

Joined May 23, 2009
91
My bad, my apologies to Rifaa, learn something new everyday.
30 years ago I wasn't taking apart sewing machines, maybe i should have.:D
 

Thread Starter

sitran12

Joined May 29, 2009
13
2 months later I wanted to share the final results - after speaking with our local Brother's lab technician I followed the technician's advice and removed the cap entirely. He says the cap is an old noise suppression part that is no longer needed.

This solved the problem and the machine works perfectly.

I know that from a safety point of view it might have been better to put on a Y capacitor, but I prefer to replace the entire foot pedal for 20$-30$ if any problem re-occurs.

thanks everyone for the help
 
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