So here's what's going on:
I have a car I'm trying to fix, and it looks like the problem goes back to the ECU, particularly it looks like the capacitors inside are leaking, which seems to be the most common point of failure in these ECUs. The rest of the board seems fine except for some marks, so I figure before I try spending 50 bucks replacing my ECU, I might as well try replacing the 7 can-type electrolytic capacitors inside.

Right now I'm looking on mouser.com, if someone knows a better place let me know.
I'm told it's best to use the same type of capacitor as the original for this ECU. The capacitors were originally nichicon PR series, which I'm told has been replaced by the PS series now. Anyway I wrote down all the specs that were on the sides of the capacitors, but when I look them up (on mouser at least) there's a couple of different variants to pick from on most of them, and I'm not sure of the difference between them.

Specs are:
35V 33uF
10V 220uF
35V 220uF
10V 47uF
10V 100uF

There's at least a couple of options for each of these. For example: https://www.mouser.com/Nichicon/Pas...s/_/N-75hqw?P=1yj857vZ1z0zlbmZ1z0wrjqZ1yx4atv

I'm not that much of an expert on electronic components, so if anyone knows, let me know.

Also if you see any other issues with this plan, let me know.

If anyone is curious about what car I'm working on:
1994 Accord Ex (Automatic)
ECU: 37820-P0A-A51

 

On the Mouser link you posted, the only difference between the two parts is in the way they are packaged. Bulk will just be loose parts, tape and reel will be with the parts fastened to a strip of cardboard that can be fed through an automated insertion machine. Either would be OK for you.

 

On the Mouser link you posted, the only difference between the two parts is in the way they are packaged. Bulk will just be loose parts, tape and reel will be with the parts fastened to a strip of cardboard that can be fed through an automated insertion machine. Either would be OK for you.

Oh awesome, thank you so much!

 

I'm told it's best to use the same type of capacitor as the original for this ECU.

It doesn’t hurt to improve on some specs. For instance a higher voltage or temperature rating, or life expectancy, is a good thing. Lower ESR is almost always good but I suppose there might be exceptions. If space is tight, be sure the dimensions are OK.

 

It doesn’t hurt to improve on some specs. For instance a higher voltage or temperature rating, or life expectancy, is a good thing. Lower ESR is almost always good but I suppose there might be exceptions. If space is tight, be sure the dimensions are OK.

Ah ok, but these capacitors are decent enough right?