Have you already connected them or are you connecting them now? Can you give us pictures of the connections?I have read on the internet if the peltiers are use in one time we must connect series but I don't know is it true??? So I still don't find out the result for this source
Can you cite a source?I have read on the internet if the peltiers are use in one time we must connect series but I don't know is it true??? So I still don't find out the result for this source
I need it uses electric and makes water cold or hot so if I connect it in parallel it won't active as I want . Is this right???Can you cite a source?
Peltier devices allow a range of input voltages. I'd think you'd get better performance if you connected them in parallel.
I still not but I intend to connect it seriesHave you already connected them or are you connecting them now? Can you give us pictures of the connections?
Please post some pictures and more details.I still not but I intend to connect it series
If current flows through a Peltier, one side gets hot and the other cold. If the heat on the hot side is not dissipated, both sides will become hot and the peltier can be easily destroyed. This is much more likely if you operate the device near its specified maximum. In other words if you supply 12V to a nominal 12V peltier, it will draw a high current and will operate very inefficiently. Typically, they will consume 10 units of energy for every one unit moved from cold side to hot side, with all eleven units appearing on the hot side, requiring good dissipation to avoid destruction.I need it uses electric and makes water cold or hot so if I connect it in parallel it won't active as I want . Is this right???
What we need in order to provide useful advice is a better description of what you want to achieve. pictures at this point are less useful, but if there are data sheets for the devices that you have, the recommended current and forward voltage information would be useful, as well as any information about the claimed efficiency. AND, any description of the recommended heat sink capabilities would be useful as well. The problem is that while the devices transport heat, they also generate a bit of heat, and that is part of the heat sink consideration. So we also need to know the temperature that you intend to cool things down to.Please post some pictures and more details.
As I mentioned in a previous post, we needed to get down to -100 deg C and tried every combination imaginable. Without the thermal spreaders we had no chance. The purpose of the spreaders is often miss-understood. It is there to ensure that the whole surface area of the larger cooler can absorb heat from the footprint of the smaller one. The ceramic type of material on the surfaces of the coolers is not particularly good at transferring heat laterally across it's surface, hence the need for the spreader. That in itself introduces the problem that you now have a surface that will happily radiate some of the heat into the surrounding area as thermal feedback.Insulating the exposed surface can prove problematic unless careful thought is given to the thermal path.Re: Reckless
""next in the stack you need a copper or aluminium spreader""
Yes, and no. Just peltier even the largest and how much a smaller has ENORMOUS Watts per square centimeter. The flux density figure. Thus, if the surfaces will not be polished and glade in range of micrometer or better, the all generated cold will be lost in there.
Shall illustrate with an example. One client was willing to provide a certain experiments in the hot African desert with our reference spectra source, thus the minus 40C was the demand at roughly 10W. So, the best case for Peltiers, but the special demand was no ANY water if the water must be transported on camels maybe thousand km afar. But air cooling for Peltiers is sth very very uncommon.
So I took in the trash one Pentium core radiator with fan, mounted on the best Peltier what was possible to buy for a money at that time and got the cold end at first minute minus 80, next minute zero, next minute plus 80, next minute plus 160. So - what were happening? The 200W radiator was inable to sink the 10W!!! Why? Because it was calculated to get those 200W at about 2x2 inch why my device was 1/4x1/4 inch and the same power. Then I solved this by using a best play-obsessed people videocard 8x heatpipe radiator, what helped a halfway - with a hard but minus 50C it gave when in air is plus 50C for element designed for 137C difference.
By the way, in thermally serial stack, any next platelet MUST be about half x half size or even less the tower`s one level lower platelet, so making a pyramide, because efficiency of Peltiers is rarely over the 8...10%. And very rarely therefore someone uses the 4-level towers, whilst three level towers are more widespread... 10% x 10% x 10% =0,1%. Push in 100W for to get out so small as 0,1W of cold.
by Aaron Carman
by Jake Hertz
by Aaron Carman
by Jake Hertz