ok,

got my meter and made sure black was in Com and the red in the other/only slot left.

The wire which i need to keep on the permanent pin i attachewd to my red probe, and the other wire to black. i got -3.144 volts dc. i checked and swaped them around, and i got the same, but a positve number.

 

Darn, that means that the "permanent" pins are negative (the ground), which means the schematic I put together needs to be modified.

The schematic I put together was assuming that the "permanent" pins were a common positive bus, and that they used transistors etc to sink current from the cathodes; but it's just the opposite. I wonder why they did that? They sure made it harder on themselves.

No big deal, I'll just have to invert the logic and swap some transistors around.

OK, you need to re-label the "permanent" connections as "GND"

 

thanks man, appriecate it.

I plan once all is finalised, to bring this all togther so its all documented for the future. Its a major resource to have should things go wrong.

I wonder too why they would makes things harder for themselves. ANyone who knows a prop master, knows they take the easiest,cheapest route to get the affect they need!

 

Looking back at post 44, is this circuit just to do the circuit 3+4 part and then there would be another similar one for the circuit 1 part?

 

Is that for me or sgtwookie?

 

Here's an updated version, using a Zetex ZTX1149A PNP instead of the NPN driver before. Rapidonline stocks them for 21 pence each +VAT

Good point about "which is this thing for, anyway?"

Well, now there are a couple of configurations.

With the basic 7555 timer and 4017 sequencer, it's pretty much just a matter of pugging in the right driver for the circuit in question.

 

for my own interest and info, where on that diagram would the header actully plug into? How does this control the leds as per my post earlier on. I can understand a software approach to this problam, but i cant get my head around a hardware approach. All very cleaver stuff.

 

Something quite similar could be used for Circuit #1; might need overlapping flashers for the yellow, red and green. I don't have a way to find out what the original flash sequence was; the film clip in the movie was just too brief, and too fuzzy to make out details.

 

This should help

Refer to my hand diagram in post 44

" What i need is something to provide -3v to both pins i have marked as permanent (GND), then for each connector, some type of controller to alternate between the pins to make and break the circuit, im guessing once a second to get it about right. also, in order to get circuits 3/4 to cascade correctly, i need (LIGHTS1+4) ON together for say 1 sec then OFF together, then (LIGHTS 2+3) ON together for 1 sec then OFF together, and alternate


Circuit 1, can just alternate over the pins at once a second.

 

Is that for me or sgtwookie?

It was mainly for SgtWookie.
Fast work on the new diagram!
I'll probably order a few extras of each part anyway so if it needs an extra 4017, it's no problem.

 

Ah HAH! I found just the clip to look at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmM-wEPQOXo
Great quality; looks excellent in full-screen mode.
I've been looping from 4 seconds to 6 seconds.

The orange LEDs definitely do the "movie marquee" thing, progressing towards the elbow, and the green LEDs progress towards the hand.

The LEDs on the door weren't flashing at all. It looks like only the green LEDs on the side were flashing. The bluelights/blacklights were flashing on and off.

I think they realized that they'd gone maximum LED overkill; the orange LEDs below were either too distracting or would've masked the bluelight/blacklight effect. The door LEDs would've drawn the focus of the viewer's attention away from the center of the image; I think they were going for that momentary "wow" thing.

 

This should help

Refer to my hand diagram in post 44

" What i need is something to provide -3v to both pins i have marked as permanent (GND), then for each connector, some type of controller to alternate between the pins to make and break the circuit, im guessing once a second to get it about right.

This is basically what the updated schematic attached to reply #66 does. The speed is adjustable, from about 1 pulse every 1.5 seconds, to about 14 pulses/second.

also, in order to get circuits 3/4 to cascade correctly, i need (LIGHTS1+4) ON together for say 1 sec then OFF together, then (LIGHTS 2+3) ON together for 1 sec then OFF together, and alternate

Actually, it needs a progression, which is what the circuit in reply #66 does. After looking at the clip another 10 or 15 times, I'll say that the orange bar and green bar progression rate is about 1 advance every 1/2 second; and the side LEDs flash at a 1 second rate.

Circuit 1, can just alternate over the pins at once a second.

Look at the video clip I posted in my last reply. The interior view segment is still only a moment long, but it's far better quality than the whole movie that you linked to was, and the details are relatively easy to see. You only get to see a couple of cycles of the LEDs progressing in "movie marquee" fashion though.

 

leds on the door defo flash, when the scene pans away from the arm, you can see the left led on the door just ( and the right must also go on).

Ahhh, so there will be a knob i guess to speed up or down the marqee effect, that would be VERY cool!!!! good thinking.


As for what i call circuit one, if you could just alternate once a second over the pins, that would IMO, be close enough.

Good catch re the blacklights, never spotted that before.

 

Hmm, funny - I can only barely see that left LED come on. Did you get all three of those to light?

 

After screen matching props for years, you get used to spotting small things like that !

Yes, two of them come one, and then off. The big led comes on with a different pin.

 

Here's my shopping list so far:
http://www.marksphotos.info/electronics/orderBasket.html
(The line total hasn't worked).
I've listed about twice as many of everything as is required so that I can send the breadboard down and still have components here to replicate what you have. I can later solder up what I have and send that down.
If you want to go about it another way let me know.
I haven't included a breadboard but I've got an unused Maplin one, the AD-01 at £4.69 which is better suited than the Rapid ones.
Ignore the delivery charge because I need some things which will take the total to the free delivery level.
I make that about £22 but there will be a few more little things like connectors, a switch, battery holder (if you want to use batteries)
<ed> In fact the price on the link is different to my basket and I forgot to remove VAT from the delivery so the total so far is a little under £20 </ed>

 

Are you going to use a DA-15 female connector as well?

I didn't check to see if rapidonline had one of those.
[eta]
Yes, they have them:
http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Cabl...s/Commercial-39-D-39-connectors/63706/15-0155
That's a solder lug socket type, which will mate to the male Chris has.

They also have the backshells (covers):
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-C...D-39-connector-covers/63715/kw/D+connector+15

The connector that Chris has does not have a backshell (cover) on it. It would be a good idea to install one on the cable, as it takes the strain off the wires when connecting/disconnecting it.

 

That sounds great. I can pay you now (via paypal?) with the above, or wait until you have a final price and send that over? its your call, i'm easy.

AM i right in saying that when i get it in my grubby paws, all i need to do is stick in some batterys (yes i would like to use batterys on this) connect the two headers i have then away i go?

CHeers

As for the Da15 connector, i havnt mapped out what pin corrosponds to what wire, or have you gys already worked that out? I dont mind just using the headers direct!

 

Well, there are many things to be completed yet.

I want to get the complete schematic into DipTrace, and have any questionable items resolved prior to Markd77 ordering things, as if something is not designed properly, you will have problems. With the low voltage levels you're dealing with, I don't think damage is very likely, but you will be disappointed if it doesn't work straightaway.

The goal here is for you to be able to just plug it in, perhaps flick a switch, and maybe adjust a trimmer potentiometer a bit in order to have it look just like it did in the movie - except for the blacklight/bluelight at the moment, because we don't have enough information on that at this point.

It would be helpful if Craig could get a good photo or two of the ends of those blacklight/bluelight tubes with the rubber cushion slid back; the ones that don't have the zip-ties holding them on.

 

i will take photos asap