The impression I got is that he's trying to replicate his buddie's setup and just bought the actuator and joystick, and is installing it all himself.

 

I had it all working with rocker switches and like the idea of a joystick rather than two rockets. Going to make up wires tonight on a timeline snows a coming. Might need the relay drawing if this won't cut it.

 

The impression I got is that he's trying to replicate his buddie's setup and just bought the actuator and joystick, and is installing it all himself.

The joystick kit his friend bought includes relays from the link above. It's the "Control Harness" vs. "Straight Harness" which changes the price from $35 to $100 on the kit his friend bought.

I doubt microswitches will handle the load this actuator may want, which is why I suggested measuring the amps first quickly before he destroys the switches on his new stick.

 

The joystick kit his friend bought includes relays from the link above. It's the "Control Harness" vs. "Straight Harness" which changes the price from $35 to $100 on the kit his friend bought.

I doubt microswitches will handle the load this actuator may want, which is why I suggested measuring the amps first quickly before he destroys the switches on his new stick.

The other guy that told me about the joystick used a happs super and I used a happs ultimate no relays involved and going on 3 years.

 

Going to make up wires tonight on a timeline snows a coming. Might need the relay drawing if this won't cut it.

Check out your auto parts store; they might have the relay you need. if you can't find a 50A relay, then you could try something smaller, but you need to fuse the same size (ex: 20A relay, 20A fuse). Needs to be Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) - if it doesn't have 5 terminals, it's not the right one.Here's some relays that would work. You could try doing it without the relays first and see if your 10A fuse blows. if it doesn't, then good deal, done. If it does, then you need the relay setup, and I wouldn't go less than 25A on the relays & fuses; I think 50A is a safe bet.

 

well e mailed the actuator company and got this.

The requested linear actuator part number K2VLG10-12V-BR-04SPT will have
a max load rating
of 300 lb's. current draw at 300 lbs will be approximately 24-25 amps

 

cool, so go with the relay setup and fuse 25A and wires should be 12AWG or better

 

Ok hooked up the joystick and don't have a battery yet so used a jump box. Raised up blower and was at the top and held little to long and blew the 10 amp fuse. Put a bigger one in to get it down opened up box and ran blower up and down micro switch didn't get hot or smell. Don't know for sure if I am going to keep this actuator or get a bigger one. At 300 lb that is right close to the weight of the blower. I like the way this guy did his but little more money. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=151319 Anyone know what a power window motor draws because now I am moving on to the chute rotation and is done with a window motor.

 

You'll need to look at a LOT of power window motors to get one you can use.

Many of them are riveted to the frame, along with the gearing shafts, so rebuilding that setup without buying a door might be difficult.

Some cars use a scissor jack type configuration, while others use a cable and pulley configuration.

The output shafts on the motors are milled and drilled to work directly with whichever setup it is designed to, not a lot of room for modification.

That said, they can sometimes spike at 30A when stalled, and 20A when running a window in the winter.

 

No not really all ready have it and all mounted. Just didn't know the rough amp draw of it.

 

Cool!

Did you use a standard ratchet wrench socket to connect to the motor shaft?

 

Yep a 12 point socket fit over the gear.