First off, my name is Nate and I am a new member here. I just picked up a 50" Samsung DLP model HLT5075 yesterday that doesn't work. After reading all the reviews on this T.V., I am glad that I got it for free.
So, the tv doesn't turn on. The red light comes on when plugged in, but when you hit the power button it clicks like any other tv would, but nothing happens. No sound or any other lights, it's just dead.
I pulled the power supply board out of it, and a few of the capcitors are popped. I would like to try and replace these before spending the $100 for a new board,(yes, I am cheap).
I have heard that the CapXon capacitors are junk, and was wondering where I might be able to get some replacements.

I need 3 of these - KM 105 C C711 vent 2200uf 25V

3 of these - GS 85 C C702 vent 1000uf 10V

And 1 of these - GS 85 C C706 vent 2200uf 16V

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

What part of the world do you live in? Probably makes a difference as to sources.

 

Those caps look okay. I'd look for some bulging ones. But if you want to replace them I can probably source those cheap, £10 for the lot maximum, plus shipping, PM me. I'll put them on my next order for my components from Farnell or Rapid and get you some quality name brand ones (Panasonic, Rubycon etc.)

And it's not cheap to replace caps - I think it's a good thing that you are keeping it from a landfill! For a success story of my own, see here: http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=344147&postcount=40

 

I'm in the United States. I had taken the board to a computer repair shop for another problem, and they looked at the capacitors and said that they looked like they were lifting off the board.
The problem that I took it there for, was a semiconductor has the "face" blown off of it. I thought that would be a problem, but they said it looked alright. I was going to just replace that also.

Here is a pic of the semiconductor. The reason I found this was when I took the back of the tv off, it fell out.

This is where they said the lifting was.

 

You might look on Digikey.com or Mouser.com for replacement caps. However, those really don't look bad; when they fail, they usually bulge at the top. Digikey has a pretty handy search engine; narrow your parts down by whatever criteria you select.

Now, it's possible that the electrolyte solution in the caps themselves was too strong, and it ate the enclosure out at the bottom. I had a cap fail like that not long ago. One of the caps' leads was completely loose in the case.

 

I can't believe that you were told that a solid state component with the face blown off of it looks OK!!!
That is NOT normal.

 

I hear ya. It's definately getting replaced. As for the capacitors, it's kind of hard to see in the picture, but they are bulging out of the bottom, and seems like they are pushing themselves off the board.
I will check out the two sites you listed. Thanks for a point in the right direction.

 

The problem that I took it there for, was a semiconductor has the "face" blown off of it. I thought that would be a problem, but they said it looked alright. I was going to just replace that also.

That part looks as if it has 5 legs.

Without a "face" on it to show you the part number, it would not be easy to find a replacement.

 

That part looks as if it has 5 legs.

Without a "face" on it to show you the part number, it would not be easy to find a replacement.

Hopefully he saved the chunks of black ceramic that fell out when he was taking the power supply apart.

If several components are blown, and you don't have the correct equipment, it may be cheaper to replace.

I'd suggest an ESR meter for caps, if you go through 3 devices, it pays for itself ($80 for Blue ESR). If you don't really have an interest in electronics, skip that purchase and get a good DMM (even if you only tinker once in a while).

More photos of the board (both sides), in high resolution and well focused, no flash bounce. Best way is to go outside on a cloudy day, and take photo without the flash enabled.

 

I do have the piece that blew off of it. It says FB H12 H 5Q0765RT on it. I'm looking at around $95 to replace the power supply board, but all I can find is used ones, and I am not %100 sure that this is the whole problem. I just kind of thought that replacing the blown out part and the capacitors would be cheaper.

 

From what I can find, the 5 lead device is obsolete. The data sheet was found here........

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/53219/FAIRCHILD/KA5Q0765RTTU.html

A search for part # ka5q0765rt mainly pops up data sheet sources and services that will try to find it on the gray market for you. From my experience in an industrial service company that tries to keep old stuff running, typically, those locator services have a minimum order price of between $200 and $500. I did find one possible source here.....
http://audiolabga.com/mal_cart/mal_cart.php?find=CQ0765RT
I have no personal experience with this company, so cannot recommend either positive or negative. Good luck with your project, either way you decide to go.



One other thing, and this is only my opinion and others may disagree. When the main switch element in a switching power supply blows itself apart, it was caused by failure of another part. Even non-failed parts of the supply are extremely stressed. Even though they test OK, they may not quite be up to the rigorous demands placed upon them.

 

One other thing, and this is only my opinion and others may disagree. When the main switch element in a switching power supply blows itself apart, it was caused by failure of another part. Even non-failed parts of the supply are extremely stressed. Even though they test OK, they may not quite be up to the rigorous demands placed upon them.

I agree with you on that. I may be way off, but could it have also possibly been from a power surge?

 

Most switching supplies contain some sort of surge suppression on the line input side. Usually it is in the form of a MOV possibly in adition to other line filtering schemes.

Do you have a picture of the board area around the line input section?

 

I had a 22" monitor with puffed CapXon capacitors. I bought replacement caps from Mouser and Digikey. They both are excellent places for parts. Once I replaced the caps, it worked perfectly. Even though a few CapXon caps looked okay, I went ahead and replaced them all. I used Panasonic parts. Good luck.

 

Best capacitors will be from B&D electronics. The have low esr and high temp. Now onto the part you are discussing. Get online with Digikey, they are great helping cross obsolete parts. I had a part that is close to yours but is lower not higher. Find one that meets or exceeds your parts specifications.

 

I'm liking that Mouser site. I will get a list together to run by you all before I order.

 

So I wanted to doublecheck with you guys to make sure I am ordering the right stuff.

On the 3 black capacitors, there are numbers that follow: KM 105C C711 vent 2200uf 25V. Would these be right? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Electronic-Components/EEU-FR1E222L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YdaNLYf2lviCpjmeu0TTT58%3d


Then on the 3 blue capacitors, GS 85C C702 vent 1000uf 10V. Link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YdaNLYf2lviCE9LbNG7oWj0=

Then on the 1 blue capacitor, GS 85C C706 vent 2200uf 16V. Link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YdaNLYf2lviC8HN5lc05mcA=

The reason I ask is because I have never ordered anything like this before, and don't know if I am missing anything.

Also wanted to see if this would be the correct part. This is a pic of the piece that blew off. The #'s on the bottom match up, but not the top.

And the link from Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/5Q0765RT-5Q0765...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a64031d70

 

They all match for electrical and are better-than for temp specs, so that's all good.

Double-check the dimensions on your caps; diameter, height, and lead spacing. If the new ones are taller, larger in diameter, or have markedly different lead spacing, you may have difficulties getting them in/getting the thing back together.

 

Alright, I will do that. Thanks for the quick response. When I measured them, they were all good except for the 3 1000uf 10v. The lead spacing on my board should be 5mm instead of the 3.5mm. Called mouser and they are on backorder. I believe this is the right one from Digikey. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P5127-ND

 

The 8mm diameter caps have 3.5mm spacing, 10mm go to 5mm spacing.

You can bend the leads out. Use some hot glue to hold the cap to the board so it doesn't wobble around; that would weaken the leads.

[eta]
Here's the datasheet for the power switch:
http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/KA5Q0765RT.pdf
Looks like you've found the replacement. Make sure to use heat sink thermal compound on the back when you mount it on the heat sink; that will ensure good heat transfer.