good thinking.

Depending on if COM and Ground are the same connection. If not then connecting the source pin of Q1 to Ground might work.

 

There is a lot of info on the http link in my pdf attachment. This is what I knew as a "class B" alarm system. The EOL resistors (1k) need to be put at the end of the 2 wire line. The EOL resistors can be brought back to the panel, but this requires 4 wires. Class A systems use 4 wires and are capable of resounding alarm, trouble, and tampers.

A monitoring system using just NO COM switches only detects an open circuit for an alarm and is thus less capable than a system using NO NC COM switching.

Alarm: short across the loop, then loop opens.
Trouble: Open on the loop.
A tamper is like a trouble, but denotes some one is tampering, a trouble can be caused by a system, or device problem.

Most panels have the power (battery) isolated from the building power, but connect the panel to the building ground via a high resistance (1Meg). This allows the panel to detect a ground fault by monitoring the voltage at the junction of the ground fault resistor and a comparator.

 

There is a lot of info on the http link in my pdf attachment. This is what I knew as a "class B" alarm system. The EOL resistors (1k) need to be put at the end of the 2 wire line. The EOL resistors can be brought back to the panel, but this requires 4 wires. Class A systems use 4 wires and are capable of resounding alarm, trouble, and tampers.

A monitoring system using just NO COM switches only detects an open circuit for an alarm and is thus less capable than a system using NO NC COM switching.

Alarm: short across the loop, then loop opens.
Trouble: Open on the loop.
A tamper is like a trouble, but denotes some one is tampering, a trouble can be caused by a system, or device problem.

Most panels have the power (battery) isolated from the building power, but connect the panel to the building ground via a high resistance (1Meg). This allows the panel to detect a ground fault by monitoring the voltage at the junction of the ground fault resistor and a comparator.

Thank you marcf.
do you mean: http://tech.vyanet.com/Tech_2010Various_Hardwire_Motion_Detector.htm
because the link on your paper ' The page cannot be found ' .
http://tech.vyanet.com/tech_2010Dsc.pc3000_v74_wiring.htm

My system has a battery there, I don't know still be useful or not, also has AC power cable in.

 

http://tech.vyanet.com/Tech_2010DSC_PC3000_v74_Program_Sheet.htm

Try this one. Be advised that this web site is "http" (not secure) not "https" (secure).

This panel is a normal panel. A battery is used for operation and the AC line provides a charging source for the battery. The AC line and the power (battery)to the panel needs to be isolated form each other. One reason is that wire damage (shorting to EMT, crushed wires, etc) needs to be detected.

Also the terms NC an NO connections usually mean the relay, sensor is _NOT activated. There will be continuity from NC to COM and an open between COM and NO. For a 'fail-safe' operation, you would want the relay to be energized when their is power, thus NO would be closed not open. Hope this makes sense.

 

http://tech.vyanet.com/Tech_2010DSC_PC3000_v74_Program_Sheet.htm

Try this one. Be advised that this web site is "http" (not secure) not "https" (secure).

This panel is a normal panel. A battery is used for operation and the AC line provides a charging source for the battery. The AC line and the power (battery)to the panel needs to be isolated form each other. One reason is that wire damage (shorting to EMT, crushed wires, etc) needs to be detected.

Also the terms NC an NO connections usually mean the relay, sensor is _NOT activated. There will be continuity from NC to COM and an open between COM and NO. For a 'fail-safe' operation, you would want the relay to be energized when their is power, thus NO would be closed not open. Hope this makes sense.

Thank you marcf.
I'm thinking to add a light sensor on the line of door sensor, what I like to use is Arduino unit at 5Vdc system, the door sensor used 12V when trig.
I am not sure if the Voltage divider work here? or even the 5V may not work cause of the long distance wire voltage drop?

 

I'm thinking to add a light sensor on the line of door sensor, what I like to use is Arduino unit at 5Vdc system

Do you mean when the door is opened it activates an existing light fixture or something else?

 

Do you mean when the door is opened it activates an existing light fixture or something else?

Thanks.
I was planning to add sensors such like light sensor, temperature sensor, which can work independently, no matter the door close or open just borrow the wires. but the fact is the wires carry 12Vdc when the door open.
I am not sure can a diode isolated 5V unit from the 12V? I guess voltage divider may not work here.

 

Then the Arduino will be installed inside the alarm panel?

 

I was planning to add sensors such like light sensor, temperature sensor, which can work independently, no matter the door close or open just borrow the wires.

How would that work when the door is closed and the wire is at zero volts

 

How would that work when the door is closed and the wire is at zero volts

Thanks.
Yes, the Arduino will be put in panel box after done.
if the door in close status, the connection will be like the picture shown, actually I'd modify the connection. put R and yellow wire in near Arduino side.

 

if the door in close status, the connection will be like the picture shown

I'm confused, how does that tie in with the alarm wire from the door?

 

I'm confused, how does that tie in with the alarm wire from the door?

well， like this: may I use a Zener diode to prevent 12V on?

 

You can't just connect a sensor and arduino to wires that are being used for another purpose. Follow the yellow wire from terminal Z5 to where it goes into the white sheath of the cable. There is a POSSIBILITY that you might find two wires at that end of the cable that are NOT connected to anything. If you do find 2 unused wires in that cable the other ends will be at the sensor for the front door or the garage door. The sensors for these two doors are on the same circuit (Z5) and are probably connected in series. If you do find two unused wires you could use them for your sensor.

Les.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...PSDg3LHk_cZs9YLsa6KNorMPhARHg4IsaAj2rEALw_wcB

I used this I2C range extender and it worked quite well for both 1wire and I2C.
Our old condo had a lot of CAT5 network and telephone cable installed. As we had cell phones, we did not need to use the phone cable and only need to use a few of the network lines, I tried to install several 18B20 1 wire temp sensors around the condo at the telephone / network jacks.
Talking to one sensor connected to any jack was successful , however when I tried to talk with more than on on different lines, this did not work too well.
When I used the p82b715 everything came together.
I needed to have 3 wires however. +5v, 0V, and data.
If you have 12v from the panel at the door alarm switches, you could use a 5v regulator.
If you only have the door switch available, then this approach would not work.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/P82B96P?qs=aEuGZpxfbxV0WPFsO7nJmg==&mgh=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_8OPBhDtARIsAKQu0gbApto6WUAqLUznUH5jbj5PSDg3LHk_cZs9YLsa6KNorMPhARHg4IsaAj2rEALw_wcB

I used this I2C range extender and it worked quite well for both 1wire and I2C.
Our old condo had a lot of CAT5 network and telephone cable installed. As we had cell phones, we did not need to use the phone cable and only need to use a few of the network lines, I tried to install several 18B20 1 wire temp sensors around the condo at the telephone / network jacks.
Talking to one sensor connected to any jack was successful , however when I tried to talk with more than on on different lines, this did not work too well.
When I used the p82b715 everything came together.
I needed to have 3 wires however. +5v, 0V, and data.
If you have 12v from the panel at the door alarm switches, you could use a 5v regulator.
If you only have the door switch available, then this approach would not work.

Thanks.
is it possible to replace all sensor to 5Vdc?

 

is it possible to replace all sensor to 5Vdc?

Not with a 12 volt alarm system.
If you want to activate some kind of external device when opening a door or window using the existing sensors and wiring without interrupting the integrity of the alarm system then no problem as I showed in post #61. Other then that I don't see how you could do anything else unless you can connect to a unused grn/yel pair if it is accessible.
Most of the magnetic door switches I have seen used are pressed fitted into the door jam. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver or knife you can gently pry it out and usually be able to access the cable.

 

Not with a 12 volt alarm system.
If you want to activate some kind of external device when opening a door or window using the existing sensors and wiring without interrupting the integrity of the alarm system then no problem as I showed in post #61. Other then that I don't see how you could do anything else unless you can connect to a unused grn/yel pair if it is accessible.
Most the magnetic door switches I have seen used are pressed fitted into the door jam. Using a small flat bladed screw driver or knife you can gently pry it out and usually be able to access the cable.

Thanks.
I guess I got give up it.
but, where the power wire red/blk goes? each cable has 4 wires and each sensor just used 2.

 

but, where the power wire red/blk goes? each cable has 4 wires and each sensor just used 2.

This was explained before.
The door and window switches only use the red/blk pair.
The keypads require 4 conductors, red/blk for power and yel/grn for data
The motion detectors are similar, red/blk for power and the yel/grn to the com/zone terminals.
In your alarm panel you can see a bunch of unused yel/grn pairs bundled up.
Years ago when I did alarm pre-wiring for new construction we used 2 conductor cable for the door/window sensors and 4 conductor for what ever else required 4 conductors. Things like keypads, motion detectors, CO2 detectors, fire, glass break sensors, etc.
The people who installed your alarm decided to use all 4 conductor cable for some reason. Maybe that was all they had in the truck.

 

This was explained before.
The door and window switches only use the red/blk pair.
The keypads require 4 conductors, red/blk for power and yel/grn for data
The motion detectors are similar, red/blk for power and the yel/grn to the com/zone terminals.
In your alarm panel you can see a bunch of unused yel/grn pairs bundled up.
Years ago when I did alarm pre-wiring for new construction we used 2 conductor cable for the door/window sensors and 4 conductor for what ever else required 4 conductors. Things like keypads, motion detectors, CO2 detectors, fire, glass break sensors, etc.
The people who installed your alarm decided to use all 4 conductor cable for some reason. Maybe that was all they had in the truck.

Thank you sghioto.
Sorry I missed this fore description.
do you mean like this:

 

Yes, that's one option using the Program Out terminal to drive a relay direct as long as the coil current is below 50ma as per the manual:
Courtesy Pulse With this option the “PGM OUT”
terminal switches to ground during the course of the
entry and exit times. It could be used to turn on a light
near the exit for the duration of the entry/exit times.