It is my understanding that with these switches I would not need another display.

Correct - as long as you can read the digits on the switch you're set. You can always go elaborate later once you've gotten your feet wet with electronics.

What is more important, viewing angle, or mcd??

Both - they're interlaced. You'll probably want an mcd rating of 2000 or more so you can better see the display in daylight. Viewing angle will determine how easy it is to see when not directly in front of the display. Viewing angle is a little tricky because it doesn't mean the display isn't viewable outside the given angle, it just drops off considerably. It's easy to find large mcd-rated LEDs, but these often have a small viewing angle making them almost like lasers - lots of light in a pointed direction but hard to see if you're off to the side - of course you wouldn't look into a laser, but that aside . . .

Again, I think you'll be good with 30-45 degrees and 2000-8000mcd. Don't worry about 360 degrees or +10k mcd. I think I've got some blue (maybe others too) LEDs from LEDshoppe at home. I can take some pictures from different angles and distances if you'd like to give you an idea. How far away does the display need to be seen from?

What do you use as a filter??

I buy colored transparent acrylic from Tap Plastics: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/...plastic/acrylic_sheets_transparent_colors/519

I just noticed they carry PVC too: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/foamed_pvc_sheets/342.

They've got good prices and cut to size without an additional charge. Once you've determined your size, play with the quantities - often it doesn't cost much if any more if you increase your quantities to some point. For instance, I just priced 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 sheets of gray PVC at 12" x 12" x 0.125". I can pay $10 for 1, 2, 3, or 4 sheets total. Goes up a little for 5 sheets. I'm not sure how their system works, but I guess they have some minimum that works in your favor for ordering more. Now instead of paying $5+ per sheet from McMaster or Enco, you can pay a cool $2.50 by ordering 4.

 

Here is something I threw together. I've made it a PDF so you can print it and it should be the exact size. I'd suggest printing it and taping it to the car in the desired location in bright sunlight and "see" which one looks the best and is read the easiest from the maximum distance you need to read it from.

If you cannot make out the digit clearly from said distance, we may need to go bigger.

 

Thank you for the PDF. I'm thinking 4" high, but I will print it and look at it on the car. Looks like 28 diodes per number, plus the one. I think the first one I build will leave the 1 off, since my car would never be that slow. Plus it'll make it a touch easier.

On the filter, if I'm using RED LED's, I assume the filter should be read as well?

 

On the filter, if I'm using RED LED's, I assume the filter should be read as well?

Yes, just be sure to use the dark red not the fluorescent red. Same case for green and blue if you decide to use those later. The darker tints help hide the unlit segments and really make the lit segments pop.

 

I built one using the info on here, works good. See what you think in the pics.....

 

And this thread is destine to be closed. Look at the 3rd sticky n the General Electronics forum.

 

And this thread is destine to be closed. Look at the 3rd sticky n the General Electronics forum.

Not necessarily, as this project was intended to be used on a vehicle that is considered an "off road" vehicle. That is why I believe the thread has made it. Though I could be wrong.

 

See what you think in the pics.....

Simply put . . . Awesome!

Were you able to put a filter over it? It appears there isn't one, but sometimes it is hard to tell in pictures. If not, you can either order from the link I posted earlier, go to a hobby shop and see if they carry colored blue plastic sheets (usually 0.01" thick), or buy some blue cellophane wrap from a grocery store and layer it a few times until it harder to see the unlit LEDs. This will really make your display "pop".

Regardless, awesome job. What you your racing colleagues think?

 

No filter on it, just clear polycarbonate. The LEDs are actually white, in the pic they look blue, not sure why. I don't think Ill need a filter, but I'm still in testing mode with it. Haven't got to show it off yet, as my racing season is ending for the year, it'll be feb/march before I get to the track........ What is spinnaker referring to, the third sticky?
And by the way thank you very much to everyone who contributed, I've been wanting to build one of these for years.

 

....... What is spinnaker referring to, the third sticky?

He was referring to this thread.

 

Ive had to repair a circuit or two, broke solder joints. (most likely due to vibration). This thing works great other than the repairs, so I think I need to "pot" the display board. Any suggestions on potting epoxy? Everything I have looked up is really expensive. And any suggestions on doing the actual potting?
Ill post some after pics when i get it potted.

 

What joints are breaking? The ones where the wires connect to the LED leads? Do the wires break or the LED leads? Can you post some photos? Maybe before and after the potting...might help future builders.

 

I can't say I've got any experience with potting compounds, but the few times that I've looked into it, they were quite expensive. Here are some links I found that may offer viable alternatives or go into more detail about potting epoxy.

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=17000

http://www.electronicspoint.com/cheap-potting-alternative-t218493.html

http://www.pottingsolutions.com/

http://askville.amazon.com/Cheap-pl...ar-Duo-Pak/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=16203217

 

The wires are breaking free of the solder where they connect to the resistors(the current limiting resistors) this may be more of a soldering issue, might need to use a larger pc board and land the wires and resistors there instead of trying to solder a wire to a resistor lead. I'd still like to pot it tho. I'll post pics

 

It might be as simple as putting a 1/2" to 1" of heat shrink tubing over each solder joint to spread the wire flex over a larger area. Pics would be very interesting.

 

Is anyone willing to supply a "kit" with all the pieces I would need to build one of these boards? And an idiots guide to assembling it also.
Seriously, I have a pretty sharp electronics friend I showed the schematic too and he said he would solder it up if I got the parts.
But I like tinkering on stuff for the dragster myself. So, I MAY try to do it hence the "idiot proof instructions"

 

Welcome to AAC.

What exactly are you looking for? A bill of materials (BOM - a list of all parts and where to buy them) or literally a kit with all the parts supplied and a step-by-step instruction guide with pictures?

I could do either, but it will cost more to have me assemble a kit, even more so if you're wanting a PCB depending on how fancy you want it.

If I provide a BOM, you can order all the parts from one or two distributors and use a stripboard to make your own PCB, but it will be more work. So it is a question of how much you want to pay vs. how much effort and time you want to put in.

 

I would be thrilled with whatever you're willing to do for me. Either a list of parts with a schematic in a language I can understand, a box of all the parts I'd need for a finished product and a schematic or......?
I would prefer the box of parts and a "schematic for idiots". Something with a legend for what all the squiggly lines mean or "solder in part #xxxx here". Again I have professional help if needed. Speaking of him, he said maybe get enough for 2-3 units so we could end up with clean/nice piece when done.
As far as cost difference, I have no idea what something like this would cost in materials. And compensation for your help and documentation(s) of course.
I apologize for sounding like a moron. I'm honestly not. Just a neophyte on circuits and such. That's one of the things that appeals to me about this project. Doing something outside my comfort zone.

Thanks for your time,

Dave

 

Did I scare you guys off??

 

Sorry, been crazy busy at work and home. Allow me a few days (maybe a week to be safe) to come up with some options and I'll get back to you via PM.