My understanding is that, the crud leaking from NiCd or NiMh batteries is less corrosive than that from alkalines.The crystal growth cancer.
My understanding is that, the crud leaking from NiCd or NiMh batteries is less corrosive than that from alkalines.The crystal growth cancer.
What needs to be reprogrammed in an atomic clock?I've had an atomic wall clock in the kitchen for over 18 years. I replace batteries (regular batteries, not rechargeable) on average once every two years, best I can guess. The #1 thing I hated about that clock was having to reprogram it every time I changed batteries
But I think that new batteries still in the original package that leak well before the expiration date cannot be blamed in a poor off switch.Many times the "off" state is not really off for the battery. A slow continuous discharge (hi Z short, "sleep power") then turns into leaking. I bet ya the DMM you have has a really good "off" state, possibly a rotary switch to completely cut the batt out. I have meters that only have digi push button for on-off. If I don't use them often I will pop batts out. Many meters these days come with Lithium batts buried inside the case.
This is exactly when I gave up on Duracell after years of preference. Would buy 24-pack from Costco and within a year or so I was finding two or three starting to leak while still stored in package with expiration date many years away. No excuse.But I think that new batteries still in the original package that leak well before the expiration date cannot be blamed in a poor off switch.
Have to set the date and the zone. Whether I want 12 hr or 24. Whether I want ˚F or ˚C. And if I want to know the time I have to set it OR wait until it gets around to receiving a signal. Sometimes it can take hours before it connects. I think, if memory serves, it updates once every night. If it fails to update it will try again, once or more, don't know for sure.What needs to be reprogrammed in an atomic clock?