Increasing Output Voltage

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
Was this a project of your own choosing or did your instructor assign it as a class project? If I had known that this project was homework I would have taken a very different approach to assisting you. We don't do students homework here on AAC but we will provide guidance.

The odds that the ebay module activates playback by a logic low (pulling the 'Play' pin to ground) is very likely. If that's the case you will only need a blocking diode connected from the collector of Q1 (LED Driver) to the play pin on the sound board.

Chris
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Yeah when i first posted here i forgot to add that it was a school project. No it is something my team picked and i just went with it. I kind of regret that now lol. I never wanted someone to do the work :p i just wanted some help on how some of this stuff works. I do not know to much about IR's and even less on sound modules. I do thank you for the help you have given so far, i am just kind of stuck on this IR part of the circuit to trigger the sound/LED's.

Sadly i am also stuck on one of the other parts but i can figure that one out myself.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Thank you, for the help. I will buy it now and hope it doesn't take 2 weeks to get here. Do you happen to know where i can get a push/pull solenoid online? >.<
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
okay ya i guess i would need to add that lol. I am going on 24V atm but w/e works. As far as the current i am not sure, it will be triggered by a relay tho. All i need it to do is to "kick" a ball down a field. So enough force for a little ping-pong like ball to move 3 feet.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Well a push would work, but i want a push-pull so it will auto reset. I have a pull one right now, it is kind of weak so i cant find a spring to push it back out with enough force. It will be the size of a ping-pong ball but be a bit heavier. It would also be nice if it didn't creep the 3 feet. But still it doesn't need to be anything special.

Well a pull with a spring would be better then a push-pull, if they are different. I have one that does both but its to weak.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Yes it is, i already have the circuit built and all that i just needed a working solenoid. And me and my team cant seem to find a site that sells them. I already wasted money on a fake site >.> i don't want to do that again.
 

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
What's the application, voltage, current, stroke, inch pounds?

okay ya i guess i would need to add that lol. I am going on 24V atm but w/e works. As far as the current i am not sure, it will be triggered by a relay tho. All i need it to do is to "kick" a ball down a field. So enough force for a little ping-pong like ball to move 3 feet.
Is this part of the same project?
Yes it is, i already have the circuit built and all that i just needed a working solenoid. And me and my team cant seem to find a site that sells them. I already wasted money on a fake site >.> i don't want to do that again.
This is turning out to be a classic example of why the OP should not withhold vital information. It is totally unproductive to feed the forum information in small fragments. Now I find that you already have a 24V power source, so the 18V LED circuit will have to be modified.

Now, what's the resistance of your solenoid coil and what's the stroke?
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Yeah at first i wasn't even going to bring up the solenoid, that is why i did not add it to the first post. It is the same project but different circuits and different power supplies. The solenoid has nothing to do with the LED/Sound circuit. To answer the question tho, i am not sure. Would a data sheet have that info? I am sorry about my lack of knowledge in this right here.


And i thought of trying something along those lines to make a push solenoid. In the end i will probably do something like that if i cant find a push.
 

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
Why separate power supplies?
Yes, post the specs of the Solenoid.

BTW, the secret to getting the most pull force is to insure that the armature is not extended to it's no load maximum. Also, you can increase the pull power by epoxying a small rare earth magnet to the cylinder and of the armature. Someone will have to correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that adding the magnet will enable push/pull operation too.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Well as far as the power supplies go, i already have a 24v battery to run the solenoid. I don't tho have a 5V battery to run the on/off switch circuit. This circuit will trigger the solenoid through a relay.

So i just figured it would be easier to use different power supplies.

I will edit this post and add the specs if i can find them. I got the solenoid in store and i am not sure i still have the product #.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
Yeah i do see that, but i have only worked with voltage regulators once. So i do not know all that much about them. I know what they do, i just don't know how to read them exactly in the circuit. It seemed easier for me to just do a different power supplies.

But lets say i just use 5-6 LED's at 1.8v each, with the schematic you posted then added a 5v sound module. i would only need like a 16v power supply right?

Also on that note, if i connect the on/off switch circuit to this one, via voltage regulator, would it have power at all times or just after the IR was triggered?

Again sorry about the lack of knowledge and thank you.




This is the datasheet i found, sorry it took a while.

http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/datasheets/bm/GUARDIAN_ELECTRIC/70161841.pdf

I am using a A420-064836-00


EDIT: So i just got the solenoid i ordered in the mail. I didn't think it would come but it finally did. I am about to sleep i will find and post the datasheet tomorrow when i get up.

EDIT EDIT: So after looking online for a while i could not find a datasheet. Only thing on the solenoid was 08375-24E41 my normal 24v battery wouldn't work (worked on my other solenoid). But the power supplies at school worked fine. And yes it is a 24v solenoid.
 
Last edited:

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
EDIT: So i just got the solenoid i ordered in the mail. I didn't think it would come but it finally did. I am about to sleep i will find and post the datasheet tomorrow when i get up.

EDIT EDIT: So after looking online for a while i could not find a datasheet. Only thing on the solenoid was 08375-24E41 my normal 24v battery wouldn't work (worked on my other solenoid). But the power supplies at school worked fine. And yes it is a 24v solenoid.
Put a voltmeter across the power supply output and observe it when you energize the solenoid. My bet is you will see the output voltage drop below the pull-in or push-out voltage rating of the solenoid. Restated, your home 24V power supply can't deliver the required current to operate the solenoid.
 

Thread Starter

Morita

Joined Jan 7, 2012
23
@KJ6EAD
Thanks if i need to get a different one i will make sure to use that website.

@CDRIVE
Yeah i figured out my 24v battery doesn't have enough current. I am glad it was something so simple.
 
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