MeNC is driven by the proven and reliable EYEBALL MkI system. Mine is getting a little worn, but finds the pie in the fridge.

I've only ever made two boards this way, and etched a board way back in College (crowd makes woooOOO! noise). Grand total of Three(3), three count 'em. Three boards.

Here's how I did it.
I print out the trace pattern in photo reverse, glue it on the copper with shellac, and make all the black lines disappear @ the mill. With a little time spent in Paint the photo reverse image could be left with nothing but black dots and black lines, so after the milling and drilling, there would be a piece of paper stuck on a board and, when finished, there should be no black lines or dots left on it anywhere.
Strip away the shellac by a few minutes soak with denatured alcohol. Prep the copper for a sealer by scrubbing with fine scotch pad and cleaning with alcohol. place self stick dots or squares over all solder holes(I use squares, since most self stick paper has scraps left over after printer use; you cut it from that) and paint with good enamel lacquer or epoxy based paint. Peel off the solder masking spots by tracing around them lightly with a razor knife.

Screen print the artwork if any is used at this point. Result is polished looking board with small scale commercial potential.

Edit: All the above occurs AFTER you have tested the spacing of your artworks hole layout as it comes from the printer. Reducing and enlarging is almost a certainty, so have a good image editor, and never save over your original raw picture file, rename the test pics.

 

I like you..u'r my kinda guy....

Sorry if it disappointing u but what I have is rather small.
The thing is that I can draw a schema but when it comes to actually transferring it a PCB, I kinda get the hiccups..maybe because I never tried it. I would love to learn but as of now I just can't seem to get the time to study...too much work and family errands

What I have is something like 2" by 2" PCB. It's for an Amplifier that our famous wannabe's here tried to fix. After years of repairing (trying to) it ended up with missing parts and components . Since I am the Audio guy around here, I get all the hopeless customers. This is really the story of my life. It's a vintage piece and my customer actually loves it so much tht he begged me to make it for him.

I think I'll once again entertain the good folks of AAC with one of true story that is intertwined with this PCB job.
Since you so humbly agreed to do this for me,I think it is only fair for me to tell u, once again, the good old electronic tech stories of the that guy who lives in no where land.

I'll let you know once I open a thread for this, no need to hijack OP's thread. Right?

Do you have the schematic for this amp?

 

@Kermit2
Thanks. When you mentioned being an idiot savant, I thought for a brief second, maybe he is serious. Maybe he can keep all of the coordinates in his mind as he turns dials and corrects for backlash.

I have used patterns like you describe too. I wish I could find a paper that cuts like the substrates. I just use spray adhesive. Maybe the shellac helps stiffen it.

John

 

shellac is wonderful stuff. Non toxic, chemically inert, and dissolves in alcohol. Use it to glue the entire board to another piece of wood which I use as a jig of sorts and place in my milling vise. Then two mounting holes are drilled and small screws are put through into the wood to hold the board for milling. preset the jig for level work surface.

 

I agree about shellac. I guess you know that you can apply it with heat as well. Uncle was a jeweler who showed me how to use it to attach small parts to a lathe chuck. It can also be applied with a putty knife to repair furniture. Colored sticks are available for that purpose.

I will see if it makes the paper pattern cut cleanly rather than tear and fray, which obscures fine lines.

John

 

hey thanx kermit 2 ... it would be so nice kermit2 if u upload the eagle file please do it fast shall be thankful.

 

The eagle file is full of errors.

 

Let me know if I get an "A" will ya?

 

on which software these two can run properly ? i mean where i can edit the connections etc

 

hey kermit thanx for the design but i have a bit problem can u please verify the circuit and dry run once again as i am going to print it on copper baord which is single sided i need the design in single side can u please make changes in it make it a bit simple so i can understand ive got confused while lookin at it.

 

@Kermit
A+ for effort

Just curious, have you played with polygons for the fills? If not, I can send you an example off line. It is really quite easy to do, but the instructions that come with Eagle may be a bit obscure. It can avoid a lot of the problems I think you may be getting. It facilitates ripping up and looking for errors too.

Of course, if you only make one PCB per decade, I wouldn't waste time learning it either.

John

 

hey jpanhalt , the circuit i have attached is the system imported from japan , it was working well but i was changing the ic IR2111 in the circuit i did sm trouble in circvuit with solder gun and now when i connect the DC 24 V the MOSFET q2 become hot like fire and it is not working :-( so i wanted to redesign the circuit again my self using copper board can u please help me out ??

 

I did not look at the board that carefully. From what I saw, you have a schematic. You have a PCB layout that has been filled with rectangles to make milling easier. Those rectangles may not be connected to nets -- I didn't check, but you can. If you are etching, you can do it with the board drawn for milling or remove the rectangles and get something that looks more like common etched boards. Note, there is nothing wrong with a board that is drawn like that. In fact, many evaluation boards I have purchased are designed like that.

The hard work, layout and routing, has been done by Kermit2 for you. I would begin by deleting the rectangular fill areas. There are a lot of ways to approach that, some easier than others. If they are not connected to nets, you are lucky. Once you get to the routed board, then you need to figure out whether you can change anything to make it one sided or just live with using jumpers for the connections shown on the other side.

When is this project really due? If you are planning on printing and etching using Eagle, you need to learn some of the basics of using Eagle. Some processes require that you print a mirror image.

John

 

my project demo is due by tomorow but i can extend it till tuesday , if u can make a good one for me i can delay it for 1 day nd kermit did a great job but as i am not so much into dese things as a computer sciences student i am going to present the idea only , but the system should be in working conditions ,as a student of computer science its a request please make a pcb layout for me which is single sided and i can print on copper board single sided and it could be easy to understand and can work for me 100% because its short time left for me:-(

 

Tomorrow in what time zone? There is reason to doubt this circuit will even work. Are you aware of that? I will not do a printer-ready layout for you, but I did do a little with Kermit2's board design to help get you started.

Attached is an autorouted design that is single sided and has no jumpers. I personally would never use the design as shown, but it is a starting point. Good luck and get to work.

John

View attachment 25370

View attachment 25371

 

will it work for me , and i am using toner transfer method using an iron hot method which is made at home, and tomorow at 9 GMT+5 , please tell me will it be working and even if u design a system with one channel still acceptble. and thanx for the redesign and time to0

 

You could have a long night ahead of you (13 hours?). Instead, get some sleep and take an incomplete. You will at least feel better for getting the sleep and not get as desperate when it doesn't work.

John

 

yes 13 hrs actually at the moment i have items left just 1 kit if the circuit simuation was sucessful only i can try because IR2111 IC nd TL494 i have imported not available in our area :-( ,,,, can u please make a design for me which is simulated and working perfect for me ?

 

:-( ,,,, can u please make a design for me which is simulated and working perfect for me ?

No.

John

Had to add this, as apparently, "no" is too short and ambiguous.

 

Do you have the schematic for this amp?

Yep...........