Hey, just wondering what exactly I would add to these switches and where for a Jazzmaster rhythm circuit. Just for the tone and volume switches, the rhythm/lead works. Im quite sure theres usually a capacitor involved. Excuse the messy soldering, ive just been trying to get it to work before I clean it up.

Thank you

 

Can you post a circuit diagram? Without that, I couldn't even make a wild guess.

 

Here's one!

 

That is no help at all. I have no idea what is in the yellow rectangles in your connection diagram.

 

Sorry I thought they may not have any significance to the problem but heres what they are.

 

Maybe this helps https://guitar.com/guides/essential-guide/all-about-the-fender-jazzmaster-rhythm-circuit/

 

I guess the running theme im seeing is the switches I have are just DPDT and what these guitars usually have is a potentiometer which can have its value changed. Anyone know if this could be a problem?

 

Welcome to AAC.

I guess the running theme im seeing is the switches I have are just DPDT and what these guitars usually have is a potentiometer which can have its value changed. Anyone know if this could be a problem?

The switch on the Jazzmaster selects pickups and changes the adjustment range:

When the switch is in the ‘up’ or ‘on’ position, the neck pickup is singled out, then routed through a separate set of controls consisting of a 1 meg volume and a 50 kilo-ohm tone paired with a .02μf capacitor. The major difference between this and the standard controls is the 50k tone pot, which is like taking zero through two from a standard tone knob and using that as the entire range of high-end roll-off.

The switch is not a substitute for a potentiometer, it is a selector. I don't understand how you plan on using switches in a place where variable resistance is required. You could have switches that selected among fixed resistances as if they were presets, but that doesn't seem useful.

What are you trying to do, exactly?

 

if you want the jazzmaster rhythm circuit you will need a 3way switch (to select the pickups), another switch to select rhythm/lead, 2 volume potentiometers and 2 tone potientiometers (these are normally frequency dependent) and a capacitor.

 

Welcome to AAC.



The switch on the Jazzmaster selects pickups and changes the adjustment range:



The switch is not a substitute for a potentiometer, it is a selector. I don't understand how you plan on using switches in a place where variable resistance is required. You could have switches that selected among fixed resistances as if they were presets, but that doesn't seem useful.

What are you trying to do, exactly?

Unfortunately this kit came with switches instead of potentiometers so im trying to make use of them. Being able to change them between presets would be great. When its in one position it would be great for it to have no effect on the volume or tone and then flicking the switch would change to a preset value for the respective settings

 

Unfortunately this kit came with switches instead of potentiometers so im trying to make use of them. Being able to change them between presets would be great. When its in one position it would be great for it to have no effect on the volume or tone and then flicking the switch would change to a preset value for the respective settings

Well, then what you need to do is temporarily wire up potentiometers and work out which settings you want on the knobs, then using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance you’ve set the knobs to, and purchase fixed, precision resistors for those volumes. Then you can put the fixed resistors where the pots would normally be, with the switches selecting between two options.

The rhythm switch would still be a pickup selector, or you could ditch that and make it choose between two sets of two presets.

The first step is to figure out what behavior you want. Then, get the resistance measurements. Then you can work out the switch logic. I would start with beating your head against the wiring diagram until you understand what the normal hookup is doing. The switches use the center pins as common, and those are alternately connected to the corresponding pin on the top or bottom depending on switch position. Some might have “center off” where the common is connected to nothing.

Literally trace where the signal(s) go in each configuration of switches. Then, once you understand how that works, replace (on paper) the potentiometers with switches where the common pin is connected to where the pot was connected, and the fixed resistors take the place of the pot depending on switch position.

Keep in mind that the three terminals on the pot include the two outside terminals that are connected to each end of a fixed resistance (e.g.: a 10KΩ potentiometer would have a 10KΩ resistor across these). The resistor surface is exposed and the center terminal is connected to a wiper that makes electrical contact with the exposed surface and is connected to the knob.

As you turn the knob, the wiper moves away from one end terminal and towards the other. If there are two terminals connected, it is just a variable resistance (e.g.: 0-10KΩ) but it all three are connected there is a voltage divider formed. This is just a pair of resistors with a connection between them.

For cases where you find all three terminals in use, you simply have to measure from one outside terminal to the center, which is one fixed resistor, then from the other outside terminal to the center to get the other value, then connect them so the center terminal is between the two, and the two other resistor leads go wherever the potentiometer terminals were connected.

 

Well, then what you need to do is temporarily wire up potentiometers and work out which settings you want on the knobs, then using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance you’ve set the knobs to, and purchase fixed, precision resistors for those volumes. Then you can put the fixed resistors where the pots would normally be, with the switches selecting between two options.

The rhythm switch would still be a pickup selector, or you could ditch that and make it choose between two sets of two presets.

The first step is to figure out what behavior you want. Then, get the resistance measurements. Then you can work out the switch logic. I would start with beating your head against the wiring diagram until you understand what the normal hookup is doing. The switches use the center pins as common, and those are alternately connected to the corresponding pin on the top or bottom depending on switch position. Some might have “center off” where the common is connected to nothing.

Literally trace where the signal(s) go in each configuration of switches. Then, once you understand how that works, replace (on paper) the potentiometers with switches where the common pin is connected to where the pot was connected, and the fixed resistors take the place of the pot depending on switch position.

Keep in mind that the three terminals on the pot include the two outside terminals that are connected to each end of a fixed resistance (e.g.: a 10KΩ potentiometer would have a 10KΩ resistor across these). The resistor surface is exposed and the center terminal is connected to a wiper that makes electrical contact with the exposed surface and is connected to the knob.

As you turn the knob, the wiper moves away from one end terminal and towards the other. If there are two terminals connected, it is just a variable resistance (e.g.: 0-10KΩ) but it all three are connected there is a voltage divider formed. This is just a pair of resistors with a connection between them.

For cases where you find all three terminals in use, you simply have to measure from one outside terminal to the center, which is one fixed resistor, then from the other outside terminal to the center to get the other value, then connect them so the center terminal is between the two, and the two other resistor leads go wherever the potentiometer terminals were connected.

Thank you so much,I really appreciate the descriptive reply and im quite sure you have given me the answer to my problem but I am having a little trouble deciphering it all. Im only new to this stuff so I guess im not understanding why I would need a 10k resistor and if I did have one, would that emulate the standard unaltered tone? Also with the volume switch, would that also just use resistors? otherwise how would I make these two settings behave as two different options being volume and tone. Ive also heard that capacitors are usually involved. Im assuming a common is where both resistors would be wired to with one leg and then they would be wired to either top or bottom with the other? Sorry for all the questions and lack of knowledge

 

I will have to answer this in a while when I get the chance. I’ll try to get to it as soon as I can, probably tomorrow morning.

 

I will have to answer this in a while when I get the chance. I’ll try to get to it as soon as I can, probably tomorrow morning.

I am working on a schematic to try to make this more clear. Please bear with me a bit, it might take a little while since I have a lot going on here. It might be that someone with more facility in generating schematics will jump in, but if not I will get it done eventually.

 

I am working on a schematic to try to make this more clear. Please bear with me a bit, it might take a little while since I have a lot going on here. It might be that someone with more facility in generating schematics will jump in, but if not I will get it done eventually.

No problem, thank you so much, I appreciate it.