Hi! I have a Gardner Bender GDT-311multimeter tester which was wrongly used to test an AC outlet while in DC mode. I removed a component which i suspect is burnt but since lost it. Maybe someone can identify it so that i can buy a replacement and also if there is a substitute component as it was not available from a local electronic store near me.

I attached a picture of its pcb. The missing component is marked as D3. It looks like a rounded capacitor... The R2 also looks like burnt. Also kindly check if there are other components that need to be replaced.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi! I have a Gardner Bender GDT-311multimeter tester which was wrongly used to test an AC outlet while in DC mode. I removed a component which i suspect is burnt but since lost it. Maybe someone can identify it so that i can buy a replacement and also if there is a substitute component as it was not available from a local electronic store near me.

I attached a picture of its pcb. The missing component is marked as D3. It looks like a rounded capacitor... The R2 also looks like burnt. Also kindly check if there are other components that need to be replaced.

Thanks in advance.

I think it’s more likely the missing component is a capacitor, C2. No idea what value it was.

 

I just googled its type, it was a ceramic disk capacitor but i dont know its rating...

 

I think it’s more likely the missing component is a capacitor, C2. No idea what value it was.

Yes, it think you are correct. I googled it, it was a ceramic disk capacitor. If ever someone can identify its value, can i replace it with a different type of capacitor? as this type is not available locally...

 

Hi Jonlim, it doesn't really look like there ever has been anything in position of C2, either that or you made a very tidy job of soldering it, and it only looks like it will do anything when you have the other missing components in place, D3, IC2 etc..etc...

That aside, ceramic disc capacitors are usually not polarised, yet the PCB indicates the + side of the capacitor, which more suggests an aluminium electrolytic.

 

Given the meter is manual range, my bet is that R2 is the one that was obliterated by the event - the resistors on the left (R1~R6) look like the resistor divider for the ranges. Hopefully it failed quick enough to not damage the main IC.

As pmd34 mentioned, all parts surrounding IC2 seem to have been never soldered - my guess is this IC2 and its surrounding parts comprise a timer that does auto power off.

Hi! I have a Gardner Bender GDT-311multimeter tester which was wrongly used to test an AC outlet while in DC mode.

Was it set in a low range, such as 20V and applied to the mains outlet? That would explain the single resistor burned. If this was simply switched from the 200Vac to the 600Vdc scales, I would be very worried to continue using this meter as it would look terribly unsafe for my taste.