no, i have a manufacturing process where i pre-tin the PCBs with the afore-mentioned paste, then i flux it over with ChipQwik tacky flux (see photo), then i place the board in my piknplace device, populate the board, then bake it.Most likely rosin based. Are you trying to rejuvenate paste that is dried out?
well the company also has this but if i order some it will take 6-9 weeks to get it. i sure don't have that kinda time to wait. I just wish there was a way to find out what it is and get some. God knows there's almost as many fluxes as there are solders.Chances are it is a generic flux which is also sold by the same company.
damn i didn't know that. I'm using SMD291. i'll order it right now.
yeah everybody and his mother slaps their own half-ass fake label on it, and nobody has an MSDS. But the stuff does work pretty well. I've used it before and i can tell it's the same stuff.Your Mechanic material is sold by a lot of entities, but very little information on it.
HELL NO i have to cuss up a storm and scrub the LIVING CRAP out of it with IPA and a stiff-ass toothbrush. Scrub the damn thing until my arm falls off. Scrub until i'm long dead and gone. Last board i did i scrubed it for over 700 years.Is it water soluble? No clean?
Are you using 70% or something higher? Commercial flux remover works best but, to save money, I start with 70% IPA and finish with 90-99%. I only use the commercial remover when I'm sending a board to someone and don't want them thinking poorly of my workmanship.i have to [snip] scrub [snip] it with IPA and a stiff [snip] toothbrush.
does brake fluid work as well as 70% IPA? and where do you get Butoxyethanol? i never heard of it.That's good. Don't you dip? If you want something that evaporates slowly, try brake fluid. Butoxyethanol is much cheaper than the ethoxy version and also evaporates quite slowly (BP about 171°C).
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by Jake Hertz
by Ikimi .O
by Jake Hertz