heating element inside a dryer

Thread Starter

tpny

Joined May 6, 2012
220
Hi my dryer heating element does not get very hot. I measured the V+ and 0V leads of the heating element and they are 110VAC when the dryer is powered ON. I removed the heating element and continuity tested V+ ends (3 in total) and the 0V leads and they are open. I would think they should be closed (shorted) in order for current to flow thru and thusly produce heat. the sandwich layer in the middle (red arrows pointing in photo) seem to be causing the continuity to break. Is this by design? Or is my heating element faulty? Thanks!
 

Attachments

elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
I've found RepairClinic to be a wealth of info whenever I've needed to troubleshoot appliances. For dryers, check here and look at the topics Dryer Doesn't Heat and Dryer Takes Too Long. They'll take you step-by-step on what to check and how to check it.
 

MMcLaren

Joined Feb 14, 2010
859
I've found RepairClinic to be a wealth of info whenever I've needed to troubleshoot appliances.
I've used RepairClinic's diagnostics to repair our old gas clothes dryer three times over the last twelve years. Last time it was one of the two gas solenoids. I picked up both solenoids (they're located here in southeast Michigan) for something like $6 each and returned the one I didn't use.

Good luck. Regards, Mike
 

Thread Starter

tpny

Joined May 6, 2012
220
What do you mean by "not get very hot"?

If the circuit were open, it would not get hot at all.
Well it's warm when I put my hand close to it. This is when I open up the dryer and removed the drum and left the electricals connected and the heating element exposed. (But apparently this is not hot enough to dry my clothes.)

So when the power is removed and I test the 110V and 0V leads (from prior photo) for continuity, it's open. When the power is ON and I test again for continuity and I hear beep beep beep, pause, beep beep beep on the multimeter, like it's a pulse thing.

From this observation I'm guessing the heating element is internally open when no voltage is applied and becomes internally closed circuit when voltage is applied. Is this correct? Like some kind of an induction thing because the leads are physically discontinuous in this particular heating element (unless it's currently faulty).. So do you suppose my heating element is behaving incorrectly from this description? thanks!
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
30,621
Ouch! says the meter.

You are testing for continuity while 110VAC is on?

I am surprised you still have a working meter!
 

Thread Starter

tpny

Joined May 6, 2012
220
Ouch! says the meter.

You are testing for continuity while 110VAC is on?

I am surprised you still have a working meter!
ha, is that why it beeped? is it supposed to have fried my probes?

so meters aren't designed to shunt a little bit current from the test points to give a continuity reading?

Yes, so I guess the physics of this heating element is such that when power is applied it conducts, when power removed it's open. Does this sound working? And yes I tested it again and the element gets hot so maybe it's ok afterall, but my clothes still don't dry..
 

Thread Starter

tpny

Joined May 6, 2012
220
Do you mean you interrupted the air flow from the heating elements, through the drum, to the fan, and then the exit?:eek:
I just gutted my dryer by removing the drum in order to expose the electrical, so the heating element is sitting exposed and and motor is spinning unattached when I plug in to power ON the thing.
 

JohnInTX

Joined Jun 26, 2012
4,787
With no air flow, nichrome wire heaters will melt in a matter of seconds.
To add to #12, if your exhaust is clogged with lint, even a good element will heat a bit then be shut down by one of the overtemp limit switches due to poor airflow. That may account for your 'warm but not hot' dryer.
 

sheldons

Joined Oct 26, 2011
613
continuity of your heater or lack of it means throw the element away and replace it with a new one-should come pre assembled with all wires needed etc dependant on make and model-most of them also include the thermal cut outs as well
 
Top