Greenhouse wiring

Thread Starter

Cajunbubba

Joined Dec 25, 2009
17
Thanks. yes I have plastic throughout except fan motor housing (which will be grounded to case). started pulling wire. I am still stumped as I pulled the panel in my house to look at how a 50 AMP GFCI breaker for my spa was wired (by a pro) and it was like my first diagram (common neutral white wire) although it was 240.
 

Thread Starter

Cajunbubba

Joined Dec 25, 2009
17
This is exactly what I am planning. Two GFCI breakers. The only difference is I was planning for only one Ground wire going out to pigtail to all the circuits. Why does this photo have so many grounds going out (Green & yellow)?:D
 

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shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045


DON'T TURN THE POWER ON TO THIS!!!!!! You have the HOT(black) wires and the NEUTRAL(white) wires hooked to the same terminals!!

The white wires coming in from your receptacles should be hooked to the same buss bar as the curly white wires are.

Using plastic conduit and boxes doesn't automatically make you safe. You still need to connect the GROUND(green or bare) to the ground screw on the fixtures. the ground screw is usually but not always colored green.

The NEUTRAL(white) wire goes to the silver colored screw on the fixture.

The HOT/LIVE(black) wire goes on the Copper colored screw.

If you are not going to get someone qualified to check this for you, at least get the book that John(jpanhalt) told you about.

Getting caught with your grow room is not near as bad as dying or burning down your house and getting caught!!
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570




The white wires coming in from your receptacles should be hooked to the same buss bar as the curly white wires are.




If you are not going to get someone qualified to check this for you, at least get the book that John(jpanhalt) told you about.

Getting caught with your grow room is not near as bad as dying or burning down your house and getting caught!!

I agree with all the above EXCEPT the first sentence. These are GFI breakers and require that both current carrying conductors be connected as shown in the photo. If the white wires from the receptacles tied to the buss bar where the curly wires are, the breaker would trip instantly since it could not measure the return current (white wire from load) and compare it to the source current (black wire to load).

Also, it is hard to see in the picture, but the buss bar with the white pigtails SHOULD NOT be tied to the metal box. It should be isolated for a secondary breaker panel.

To the OP, one more voice to the chorus.....HIRE A PROFESSIONAL!!!.
 

Thread Starter

Cajunbubba

Joined Dec 25, 2009
17
That's what I thought. White coming from recepticals go to the GFCI so it can look for losses (measure black to white). I will run a continuity check accross the GFCI to make sure it is not the same circuit. I powered up the GFCI's to check voltages with no loads connected and everything looked good at about 114v. For those that are interested here is the web page that shows my construction step by step so far.
:cool:
http://web.me.com/mcrousseau9/Site_17/GREENHOUSE.html
 

Thread Starter

Cajunbubba

Joined Dec 25, 2009
17
You all will be happy to know, I am alive after turning on the power. The temperature control for the exhaust fan and motorized vents works great. The timer switch for the grow lights works great and the other receptacles for warming beds work wonderful. The 2 GFCI breakers trip when tested. Thanks for all your help. FYI, I hooked the breakers up just like the photo I shared earlier in the thread.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,087
Congratulations. I don't believe in ghosts, so I assume it is for real. Still, buy the book I recommended. There is a lot of good stuff there.

John
 
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