Bridge Rectifier model: KBP5010
Microwave Oven Transformer rewired to put out 6VAC

Okay, this rectifier is ratted at 1000V 50A and I'm running After rectifying and load 4.4V and between 10 and 15 Amps, but within a minute the rectifier will start smoking, if I am not careful this will be the third one I've been through.

I reapplied the thermal paste hoping there was too much, no luck.

The transformer is directly into the AC poles of the rectifier

A 30A fuse on Positive Pole

I have a 2200uF 50V Capacitor between the Positive and Negative

Then from there I'm going into an HHO cell.

I took video of this and uploaded it to YouTube if it helps you to see what I'm talking about

Also hand drew a small diagram with mspaint I'm attaching

YouTube video UUfTYxLaJ1I
URL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUfTYxLaJ1I




Thanks in advance,

Brian T Hoover


P.S. If you need more information I will do my best to supply it.

 

15A and a voltage drop of at least 1.4V across the bridge diodes will cause them to dissipate > 21W. That will need a BIG heatsink to handle the power. What are you using?

 

Heatsink:

1+5/16 X 1+5/16 X 5/8 tall inch

But an issue I'm having is it starts smoking well before it gets too hot to touch, I did not measure temp but I estimate by the time it is smoking it's around 120-130F (able to hold onto it without it burning me) and it's about 45F outdoor temp with decent wind.

Yea, I know I shouldn't be doing this out in the elements, but it's the only location I had to choose from.

 

Did you say you are getting more heat from your HHO than expected? Well, that thing is working like a charm. How did you do it, or are you keeping it under your hat!

 

Did you say you are getting more heat from your HHO than expected? Well, that thing is working like a charm. How did you do it, or are you keeping it under your hat!

No, that was not what I was saying, I'm talking about the rectifier issue.

And NOTHING I do is a secret, everything is posted on YouTube (up until Dec so far) - channel "Brian T Hoover"

 

Do you have it wired wrong and you have one diode running in a half short due to an AC line being connected to the + or - terminal rather than the correct AC terminal?

So what are you planning to do with the HHO and do the laws of physics agree with it?

 

May not be the best choice @ 1.2V per element. Thermal resistance of 1.5.

An DB3500 that I pulled out of the parts box is 1.05V per diode. And thermal resistance of 1.2.

Also, why the 2200uf ?
Adds a lot of peak current.

 

Do you have it wired wrong and you have one diode running in a half short due to an AC line being connected to the + or - terminal rather than the correct AC terminal?

So what are you planning to do with the HHO and do the laws of physics agree with it?

I've checked the rectifier many times, I can run all day and all night with no load, but my last one fried at 1.2Amp 120V (along with crashing my /opt harddrive, last time I used the surge protector my PC was connected to.)

Eventually have it set up in a car to see how the production will/might increase mileage, currently just to pop bubbles and run a lawn mower, which I was doing with 13 plates and this cell is only a day old and has 109 plates - haven't had a chance to hook it to the mower yet.

Laws are meant to be broken lol, but I am not trying to go over-unity - but if I CAN disobey it I'll let everyone know, but for now my efficiency is far too low ~5.5 MMW


My standard input is 11.5-13.3V, I'm trying to set this up so I can run it for 36 hours and condition the plates I have, If all else fails they will condition over time at actual voltage. (My battery charger only goes to 5A and I cannot leave a vehicle running that long, waste of gas)

Last run was 9.6V 30.1A and about 1650ml/min HHO. (found out the extension cord to the charger was unplugged lol - good thing it is an old lawn battery.

 

May not be the best choice @ 1.2V per element. Thermal resistance of 1.5.

An DB3500 that I pulled out of the parts box is 1.05V per diode. And thermal resistance of 1.2.

Also, why the 2200uf ?
Adds a lot of peak current.

Well, I've had this set up without it before and it was smoking so I decided throw a cap in there see what happens, no difference - I almost put 2.66F into it , but I found that one before I printed the PCB for my 1F super caps (which I have another use for anyways).

I tested my rectifier at 0.55-0.65V per diode earlier today

 

Eventually have it set up in a car to see how the production will/might increase mileage

I guarantee all it will do for you is what it has done for millions of others. Not a damn thing useful other than waste your time and your money.

 

Much bigger heat sink.

 

Much bigger heat sink.

I guess I'll tap a hole in this gigantic P4 heatsink see if this helps (and yes leave the fan on it)

off-topic: Why does the P4 have such a big heatsink? I have a 2.66GHz quad core overclocked to 3.4 with a heatsink half the size and I run no more than 55-60C under full load...

Sorry I found a soap box...

I guarantee all it will do for you is what it has done for millions of others. Not a damn thing useful other than waste your time and your money.

It's possible but I've only invested about 400 in the past 6 months and I have more 316SS than I could ever use and all the PVC pipes and fittings to fix anything - so either way not a total loss.

And my time, come on, something has to waste it - I work from home (most the time) on salary with very little work to do. So between this, a 16-bit cpu/alu project, and work I still have time to waste

 

The HHO cell will work just as well with AC, you don't need the diode bridge or the cap.

The only time you need DC for an electrolysis cell is for separateing oxygen and hydrogen, as with DC one gas is produced by each plate. If you have a standard HHO cell with stainless steel matching plates and you mix the gases then AC works just fine.

Regarding the heatsink, those "50A" Taiwan bridges can be as high as 1.2v across each diode at 15A and there are two diodes conducting so the power dissipated is 2* 1.2 * 15 = 36W. Your heatsink needs to be about 5 times bigger, or twice as big but with a fan.

 

Well, I've had this set up without it before and it was smoking so I decided throw a cap in there see what happens, no difference - I almost put 2.66F into it , but I found that one before I printed the PCB for my 1F super caps (which I have another use for anyways).

I tested my rectifier at 0.55-0.65V per diode earlier today

But at full load?

 

This thread is against the AAC forum rules, Chapter 6, as seen here:

6. Restricted topics. The following topics are regularly raised however are considered “off-topic” at all times and will results in Your thread being closed without question:

• Any kind of over-unity devices and systems
• Automotive modifications
• Devices designed to electrocute or shock another person
• LEDs to mains
• Phone jammers
• Rail guns and high-energy projectile devices
• Transformer-less power supplies

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