Hey all,

Im not sure if this is the right place to ask this (or if you even entertain 'projects' of this type), but I am working on debugging a broken washer and could use some help.

The behavior Im seeing is that after the wash cycle the machine just stops. This is when the drain pump should be running, followed by spin. Since this failed on a full load of laundry, and to rule out the pump and blockages, I hooked the pump directly up to 120V. It emptied the tank just fine. Ive checked the lid switch which was an open and closed circuit when the lid was open and closed respectively.

Ive did a resistance check on the motor and starter motor which looks like its ok.

M5-M1 = 8.5Ω
M6-M7 = 1.7Ω
M6-M3 = 1.5Ω
M2-M7 = 1.7Ω

No leads were shorted to ground

I then removed the timer and verified that during spin cycle (~55°), cam 4 was shorted to T9 to provide power to the pump (T9 - T20 were shorted). When reassembled, no power is delivered to the pump. The timer turned as designed, contacts were difficult to see but no obvious buildup or scortching. Pressure switch appears to be working correctly, 120V at terminal 3 when filled, 120V at term 1 when empty. Im running out of ideas here. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ive attached the circuit diagram for this washer.

 

Put a volt meter on T9 and walk the timer around to, "empty". It's very common to see the proper voltage with no load, and then see it fail when the motor is attached.

 

Thanks for the reply.

By 'empty' I assume you mean the drain and spin cycle. There are ~0V on T9 while the timer moves from agitate to drain/spin regardless of whether the pump is connected. When this transition, the machine neither drains nor spins, and the timer does not advance.

 

Oh. I thought you said the contacts connect with no load. Sorry.
But, doesn't that point you to the idea that the contacts are bad?

 

Updating for any future references.

The issue was right under my nose. The lid switch tested fine, but I neglected to check the lid lock which was all in one unit with the lid switch. This lock was 120V across the terminals at the start of the pump/spin cycle meaning the switch (solenoid?) failed to close the switch and deliver power to the pump and motor.

Thank you #12 for helping troubleshoot.