Pretty much same choices as the big box at Ace.Surely there is an ACE hardware close? Or an O'Reillys auto parts near you? Ace will have the clear vinyl tube and an auto parts will have it in black rubber.
Using a reservoir to accumulate total vacuum you can use just about any pump. Since I've never built one I really couldn't tell you how to go about it. However, modern cars have air pumps that pump air into the exhaust stream. I'm SURE they have an inlet side. However, I don't know how much amperage they would draw. Smaller cars should have smaller pumps. You'd have to do some modification work in order to get a usable device for the purpose, and it's also possible the pump would move enough volume so you wouldn't need a tank. Still, the idea of ramping up a vacuum versus the ready volume (or lack thereof) controlled through a valve should be the best solution, allowing you to heat the joint then to rapidly apply a suction, same as a spring loaded sucker.Anyone have an idea of how powerful a pump you would need?
Problem with having it running all the time (during solder removal) is that the movement of air will strip away the heat and not allow the solder to come to molten temperatures. The sudden application of vacuum is typically what is needed. Hence the reason for a vacuum reservoir and a solenoid valve. Besides - having a reservoir tends to preclude sucking bits of solder into the pump.The only issue I see is you might want it running most of the time but I guess you could have a foot switch to turn it on and off.
Only problem with that is unless the motor has an oil filter, you have to change oil when it's hot and soon after shutting it off. Or the bad stuff is just sitting in the nooks and crannies of the crankcase waiting to mix in with the fresh oil.In fact, I use a small tank and vacuum pump to change the oil in my lawn mower, edger and snow blower.
The same is true putting the machine up on the workbench and draining the oil out the bottom of the machine. And I've never been a big fan of changing hot oil. But even then the hot oil still hangs around.Only problem with that is unless the motor has an oil filter, you have to change oil when it's hot and soon after shutting it off. Or the bad stuff is just sitting in the nooks and crannies of the crankcase waiting to mix in with the fresh oil.
The tank I use is a quart. For changing oil it's small and repetitive but it's also quick pulling a vacuum using a small pump. Maybe later today I'll go snap a few pictures of the pumps I happen to have. They're not easily found and they come from two different industries: One is from a glass blowing shop and the other is from an old "Sun Engine Analyzer". They have rubber diaphragms and flapper valves and they run on 110 VAC. I've connected quick-disconnect hose connections so I can rapidly repurpose them for other tasks as they might arise. Also, the tank needs to be rigid enough to not cave in when you pull a vacuum. Otherwise your efforts will be disappointing - to say the least.The tank need lot be large, a gallon size is the largest that might work. So the pump-down will never take long.
The iron is electric, but the solder sucker is still manual operated.Here is one from Jamco that might be more relaibel.
Just an answer to what you said. The crankcase in most small engines isn't perfectly flat. It is sloped or dished to the drain opening, so the particles in the oil will tend to drain out when the plug is pulled. Not so when pulling it out of the filler.The same is true putting the machine up on the workbench and draining the oil out the bottom of the machine.
That is just showing what they have that is "prepackaged". When you go in to a store they have rolls of many sizes and sell it by the foot. Or at least the stores around here do it that way.Pretty much same choices as the big box at Ace.
I always put the machine on a block that angles the oil toward the bottom of the fill tube. Keep in mind, i'm not talking about a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine, these are the simple small one cylinder types with the flat bottoms. I know they're flat because since I was a kid I've been tearing them apart. Some have pumps in them, most rely on the splash oil system. When I vacuum out the oil the machine is tipped so that the low spot is directly beneath the filler.Not so when pulling it out of the filler.
I have a motor driven de-soldering tool. The vacuum pump motor is in the handle.
View attachment 170329
Denon 7000. I don't know if it is the same as atferrari above.
This has given me great service for many years. And well it should. It was quite a few hundred dollars. In fact, Googling it has quite scary prices!
Price: £1,067.77 in one place, € 599.76 another
It came with a range of heater/barrel sizes and replacement filters. In an attempt to clean the filter cylinders, I dropped them into the water based PCB cleaner and the plastic cracked. So it does not like getting wet.
A good de-soldering tool is a great thing to have and they are a lot cheaper now. Get one that has an actual vacuum pump of some sort, not just a spring tool. That helps avoiding the recoil damaging the board.
|Thread starter||Similar threads||Forum||Replies||Date|
|Electric Unicycle motor with burning MOSFETs||Technical Repair||9|
|A||Electric current and energy transfer||General Electronics Chat||9|
|H||Electric Utility Cart||Power Electronics||5|
|T||Add Gain Stage in Vacuum Tube Guitar Amp - N-Mosfet Source Follower||Analog & Mixed-Signal Design||15|
|How does this simple circuit work (electric shaver)?||General Electronics Chat||2|
by Ikimi .O
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz