Did you intend to use a non-standard pitch pin header?

 

How about this? Better?

 

No I was trying to use a standard 12 pin

 

How about this? Better?

Yes, much better!

No I was trying to use a standard 12 pin

The pitch is not 0.1" on the header you used. If you use standard and non-standard components, you will have trouble routing the traces properly. I would suggest trying to find a different header, preferably one in this style or the like:

So try searching through your Eagle component libraries for a connector like that one. It will save you a lot of trouble in the long run

Regards,
Matt

 

How's it coming? I have a quick and dirty design for you, it's by no means optimized, and the 12-pin connector is in the middle of the board, but it's all routed. Let me know if you'd like it. I still recommend you try it on your own first, though. In the mean time, I'm going to bed. It's quarter past midnight here, so I will be back perusing the forums tomorrow. Maybe by then you'll have a first attempt at the PCB layout?

Good luck, and again, have fun!

Best wishes,
Matt

 

Yes please I would like to look at it and see what I'm doing wrong

 

I can't find a good 12 pin in my library not really sure what I'm looking for exactly to many numbers and letters lol. Should I use a Molex or relimate connector? Or am I just not getting it.

 

Ok here's me trying to figure this out.

 

Ok here's me trying to figure this out.

Okay, not bad for a first try! I only have three suggestions:

1) Avoid 90° angles on the board layout. Try to use 45° traces on corners. This isn't always necessary, but it's a good practice.

2) Avoid open space. The smaller the board, the better. It will save you a lot of money in the long run.

3) This one is a little more advanced, and is not absolutely necessary for this project, but it's something to look into for the future. I suggest using a ground plane (well, in this case it would be a V+ plane). This will greatly reduce the number of traces you need, and will make the board look more professional. It will also lower the resistance of the traces, though that part is probably negligible. I notice that you have a lot of wires going from your V+ contact on the jack (which is center pin ground, by the way--is this intentional?). You can change this by drawing a polygon around your components, and naming it the same as your ground netlist. This will fill it in and connect all the parts previously connected to the jack to the plane instead.

I'll send you what I mean, but it'll have to be later today. I'm headed out of the house right now.

Great first effort, though!

Regards,
Matt

 

Ok second try

 

Ok I tried to do what you said, and changed a few things and the power from the jack

 

Ok I tried to do what you said, and changed a few things and the power form the jack

Okay, I think you misunderstood. T connections are fine, just avoid L connections. Use small 45° angles for the corners. Here's the quick one I threw together last night, just as a quick example.Also, avoid non-45° angles like the ones you have connecting your resistors to your header.

 

Ok I see what you mean by L connections, I also didn't know you could route the lines under the resistor like you did

 

Can someone update the thread with a PDF so that those without Eagle can see the project as it stands?

 

So by staggering the resistors like you did it will help with heat dissipation, even though they are that close together?

 

Can someone update the thread with a PDF so that those without Eagle can see the project as it stands?

Would screen shots be sufficient? Also, why not just install Eagle?

So by staggering the resistors like you did it will help with heat dissipation, even though they are that close together?

I don't expect you would have much of a heat problem, but yes--half of each resistor is still out in the open, not directly next to another one. This will help, if for any reason they do become warm. If you were trying to draw more current, I'd space them out an extra .05", but I don't think you have to worry about that here.

And yes, you can route underneath some components. Also, I recommend you use the DRC (Design Rule Check) tool in Eagle to make sure you don't have things too close together. It's extremely useful. There's a similar tool on the schematic editor that you can use to make sure everything is connected correctly.

Matt

 

Ok after looking at your brd its starting to make so much more sense

 

Ok after looking at your brd its starting to make so much more sense

Great! I suggest trying to lay it out a little differently though, if you plan on actually having it made. Perhaps design it so you can have all the pins on one end/side, to make for easier connection. Be creative, experiment. That's half the fun of designing PCBs

Regards

 

On the barrel jack can I connect the 2 and 3 pins? I have seen some other schematics that did this

 

On the barrel jack can I connect the 2 and 3 pins? I have seen some other schematics that did this

I believe the 2 and 3 pins are both ground, so yes--you can. But it's not necessary.