Now I am wondering about how you would couple a rotary hammer drill motor to a 3/4 inch steel pipe. I own three rotary hammer drills, two of them have standard drill chucks, with a half inch maximum drill diameter capacity. The third one is used with drill bits having a male spline extension and is intended for larger drill bits, up to about 4 inches. Those are quite expensive, by the way. The mass of the internal hammer part is more than the mass of the smaller drill bits, and so the drills are very effective transferring the impact when I use a smaller drill bit. But the mass oof a section of steel pipe is much greater than the mass of the internal hammer and so it does not seem that the energy transfer will be much. You may do better with a drive cap on the pipe and a big hammer to drive it with. You can rotate the pipe with any of a number of kinds of wrenches as you hammer it. I have used this method to install steel fence posts in hard gravel and it does work. But I did need to pull the pipe out frequently to clear it. The ground was solid enough that the hole did not collapse when I pulled the pipe out. But I am not sure how that wil work with a pipe several meters long.

 

Now I am wondering about how you would couple a rotary hammer drill motor to a 3/4 inch steel pipe. I own three rotary hammer drills, two of them have standard drill chucks, with a half inch maximum drill diameter capacity. The third one is used with drill bits having a male spline extension and is intended for larger drill bits, up to about 4 inches. Those are quite expensive, by the way. The mass of the internal hammer part is more than the mass of the smaller drill bits, and so the drills are very effective transferring the impact when I use a smaller drill bit. But the mass oof a section of steel pipe is much greater than the mass of the internal hammer and so it does not seem that the energy transfer will be much. You may do better with a drive cap on the pipe and a big hammer to drive it with. You can rotate the pipe with any of a number of kinds of wrenches as you hammer it. I have used this method to install steel fence posts in hard gravel and it does work. But I did need to pull the pipe out frequently to clear it. The ground was solid enough that the hole did not collapse when I pulled the pipe out. But I am not sure how that wil work with a pipe several meters long.

I will 3/4" use ground rods first, then pull it up, and replace with 3/4" pipe, hard things is pipe joint diameter is bigger than 3/4" hole

 

Now I am wondering about how you would couple a rotary hammer drill motor to a 3/4 inch steel pipe. I own three rotary hammer drills, two of them have standard drill chucks, with a half inch maximum drill diameter capacity. The third one is used with drill bits having a male spline extension and is intended for larger drill bits, up to about 4 inches. Those are quite expensive, by the way. The mass of the internal hammer part is more than the mass of the smaller drill bits, and so the drills are very effective transferring the impact when I use a smaller drill bit. But the mass oof a section of steel pipe is much greater than the mass of the internal hammer and so it does not seem that the energy transfer will be much. You may do better with a drive cap on the pipe and a big hammer to drive it with. You can rotate the pipe with any of a number of kinds of wrenches as you hammer it. I have used this method to install steel fence posts in hard gravel and it does work. But I did need to pull the pipe out frequently to clear it. The ground was solid enough that the hole did not collapse when I pulled the pipe out. But I am not sure how that wil work with a pipe several meters long.

In my mother's home plumber use only 2" galvanic pipe filled with pressured water to drill a well, do you think that's a good idea too ?

 

Using pressure fed water to drill a well is certainly one way to do it, and it probably is the least complex method to go deeper than a few feet. Many wells are driven with an impact system, which is capable of driving a well several hundred feet under some conditions. But usually driven wells are less than 200 feet. Probably you could drill a well with the plastic pipe if you had a means to use a hose and a high pressure jet to wash the dirt back up the pipe. Oil and gas wells are drilled with a rotary drill going down inside a casing and a fluid carrying the material back up inside the well casing while the fluid is forced down inside the drill pipe. Those wells can be more than a mile deep. So that concept can work with water, but still there is a need to have a way for the water to enter the pipe when the well is deep enough.

 

Oil and gas wells are drilled with a rotary drill going down inside a casing and a fluid carrying the material back up inside the well casing while the fluid is forced down inside the drill pipe

Yet again you should Google before making statements. Gas wells aren't cased until after they are drilled. The drill mud goes inside the drill pipe and comes up from below around the outside. I watched them drill 2 of them on my property.

 

Perhaps your gas wells were not as deep. And yes, I described the process as the drilling mud being forced down inside the drill pipe and coming back up around the drill pipe inside the casing. At least that is how it was done in southern Louisiana back in 1967. Your experience may have been different. These were quite deep wells being drilled.

 

Perhaps your gas wells were not as deep. And yes, I described the process as the drilling mud being forced down inside the drill pipe and coming back up around the drill pipe inside the casing.

Mine were directional wells going many thousand feet down and around a half mile away to the end. There was NO casing involved, until the well drilling was finished. The closest thing to a casing when drilling was a 36" predrill down a few hundred feet and the back filled with high strength concrete. Then the drilling restarted though that using a 6 inch bit on a 4 inch drill pipe. finished with a 4 inch casing and another concrete grouting.

 

Oil wells, especially on "Off-Shore" rigs are directional. They drill down so far then turn the string and send the bit out as far as eight miles (from what I remember), then turn the bit down and sink a well. It's cheaper than moving the rig every time they want to drill a new well. Again, from memory, they claim a single platform in a fixed location can drill up to 300 individual wells.

The drill strings are equipped with quite a suite of electronics. For steering they're equipped with a magnetometer, and they used to have a mechanical tilting mechanism that would tilt accelerometers to level then calculate the location, direction and angle from there. The digital signals were sent back upstream via the mud flow. They'd restrict it for a "1" (or high) and let it free-flow for a "0". It could take a few minutes to get a simple string of information up to the drillers dial display (called a "D-Cube"). The more advanced toolsets also house nuclear pellets that emit radiation. Then from the ionization coming back they could calculate what materials they were drilling through based on density and porosity. But that information could not be transmitted to the surface because it would take too long. Only after the tool was pulled out could they download the geological data. And it's been quite a few years since I worked in that industry. Two years ago I was in Idaho for a few weeks at a company that was building the boards for the company I used to work for back in the 90's. And boy did those boards evolve. What was once several modules was now housed on a single board.

 

They did manual control on direction here, pulling the string a couple of times a day, The drill head was manually moved to correct direction. I found it so interesting I took a couple of days vacation to pester the drill foreman to find out what they were up to and watch.

Billy boy is thinking that dry land wells are done like offshore, where they have to start with a casing. But yet again he knows not what he talks of. I'm surprised he didn't bring up the 20 ft deep gas well he drilled in Detroit one time.

 

They did manual control on direction here, pulling the string a couple of times a day, The drill head was manually moved to correct direction. I found it so interesting I took a couple of days vacation to pester the drill foreman to find out what they were up to and watch.

Billy boy is thinking that dry land wells are done like offshore, where they have to start with a casing. But yet again he knows not what he talks of. I'm surprised he didn't bring up the 20 ft deep gas well he drilled in Detroit one time.

I watched two men drive the gas well, and it was quite a bit deeper than 20 feet. It was a driven well, though and they did hit gas. That was quite different.

 

Now, I was reach about 12 feet deep, and I found rocks, do you think drilling with PVC pipe is still feasible ? is I needs steel pipe ?, Is a almost reach aquifer ?, in near well hole, water is only 16 feet deep in well case; but well case is 26 feet deep

 

Now, I was reach about 12 feet deep, and I found rocks, do you think drilling with PVC pipe is still feasible ? is I needs steel pipe ?

Well, um, I've never seen anyone drill through stone using a plastic drill bit before.

Now, I was reach about 12 feet deep,••• Is a almost reach aquifer ?, in near well hole, water is only 16 feet deep in well case; but well case is 26 feet deep

Think of it like a deep glass and you have a short straw. If your straw doesn't reach the drink then you can't get any. If your straw just dips below the surface, as soon as you start pulling water out your well pump will starve for water. The reason why you drill deeper than the surface is so that you can have sufficient flow back into the well so that you never starve your pump. If water is 16 feet down then you have to go below that to get a steady supply. Depending on how fast the well refills, if you don't go deep enough you won't get sufficient water.

 

Think of it like a deep glass and you have a short straw. If your straw doesn't reach the drink then you can't get any. If your straw just dips below the surface, as soon as you start pulling water out your well pump will starve for water. The reason why you drill deeper than the surface is so that you can have sufficient flow back into the well so that you never starve your pump. If water is 16 feet down then you have to go below that to get a steady supply. Depending on how fast the well refills, if you don't go deep enough you won't get sufficient water.

That is what I was trying to get at in post #26, you need a reservoir of water to replenish the water being pumped out.

 

I have no idea why this thread announcement arrived in my email list. I certainly did not access it.