You lost me? Flash attachments for what? If you're referring to the photograph it's a microscope with built in camera function. Not the best but it's the only way you can see those pins as they're literally micro.Looks like you are trying to use a flash attachment or integrated flash. That works very poorly for electronics, as many common electronic solders are highly reflective. You need indirect, soft lighting.
The very best lighting is outside on a cloudy/overcast day; there are no harsh shadows, bright reflections, and contrast is normal. You can somewhat simulate that with a flash attachment by bouncing the light off a wall/the ceiling, or using a white fabric or translucent plastic sheet between the flash and the object being photographed.
From top or from the side? You need to have quite a lot of liquid flux applied, then looking at that image you posted, you wiggle the tip slowly left-right wihtout going above the pin. This should reheat the pin and pad, while either giving it some solder if it is missing or removing the excess/spreading it across the next pins on the way down.and pressing the iron against the pins one by one.
Watching that I wanted to grab his board! It keeps moving on him, and his tweezers are magnetized and need to be replaced!
Extremely informative thank you.Watching that I wanted to grab his board! It keeps moving on him, and his tweezers are magnetized and need to be replaced!
I normally don't use flux. I keep telling myself I should but I never have. I have some, and occasional I remember it and use it.
My solder is 63/37 .015 diameter "44" rosin core, so I really do use flux. I keep my solder tip well coated in plenty of fresh solder, wipe it on a damp sponge, re-coat in solder, and whack it onto the stand to flick off excess solder, then touch my work. I refresh the tip frequently.
My solder wick also has flux, unfluxed solder wick is near impossible to work with.
To solder that beast (I would) first wick off any solder on the pads. One corner pad gets tinned... and holding part in tweezers with one hand iron in other hand place part and flow that corner pin. Rotate board 180 and do the opposite corner, then do the last 2 corners.
Now your part is nailed down and you can reflow any way you choose. I tend to do individual pins as it is fairly fast for me, while flow & drag makes too many bridges to stop and clean up.
Also flow & drag leave way too much solder. I've had Nasa certified solders critique my work (it sucked) and their main statements were 1) too much flux left (and I don't use flux!) and 2) way too much solder. *Exery* picture I see here has at least 2x too much solder. The full outline of the top of the lead or component should be easily visible. Solder should just be a fillet between lead and land.
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by Jake Hertz
by Lianne Frith
by Jake Hertz