It would not need to be copper pipe, tube is flexible and often there are craps available. At least i y world. The soldering method would be the same. AND what is wrong witha bitof heat while making a permanent connection? Crimping pipe or tube will often leave sharp corners or sharp edges.

 

Conductive glovers would be hard to drop if things went wrong. Dropping things i reflexive.
By "wrong" I mean getting a lot more current than intended.

The device works on a 9V battery and delivers micro currents (micro Amperes), there is no risk my friend

It would not need to be copper pipe, tube is flexible and often there are craps available. At least i y world. The soldering method would be the same. AND what is wrong witha bitof heat while making a permanent connection? Crimping pipe or tube will often leave sharp corners or sharp edges.

Very good point about the sharp edges, one have to be careful for this thanks.
So you suggest I use something else than copper?
The people who use copper usually wrap the tubes in wet paper towel, and sometimes add salt to increase the conductivity.
I am planing to just add the wet paper towel it should do the trick

 

I was intending to suggest something other than copper pipe. Copper tube, to be very specific. It comes in a much wider range of size, and it is easily bendable..

 

I was intending to suggest something other than copper pipe. Copper tube, to be very specific. It comes in a much wider range of size, and it is easily bendable..

Yes that's what I'm going to use, the kind of copper pipe plumber use. For me copper pipe = copper tube (but my english is not very good so I may have mistaken the words sorry for the confusion)

 

Yes that's what I'm going to use, the kind of copper pipe plumber use. For me copper pipe = copper tube (but my english is not very good so I may have mistaken the words sorry for the confusion)

A whole lot of folks are not aware of the difference.
It is rather subtle: Tube has the size described by the outside diameter, while a pipe size is defined by the inside diameter. That is because pipe is used to carry fluids, while tubing includes most materials with a hollow center.
So the defining difference is not intuitive in most cases.

 

Tube has the size described by the outside diameter, while a pipe size is defined by the inside diameter.

Guess they do have HVAC on planet Michigan. HVAC/refrigeration copper tubes are measured by the outside diameter, not the inside like copper water tubing.

 

Poster hasn't really said much about the circuit or freq of operation but in any case I hope he uses constant current diodes in the output line to assure the current can't get too high in any situation.

 

Poster hasn't really said much about the circuit or freq of operation but in any case I hope he uses constant current diodes in the output line to assure the current can't get too high in any situation.

thanks for the explanation about the difference between tubes and pipes.
Concerning the device I shared the details on the First page, the diode is a simple 1N4148, here are the schematics:

Output will be a 30khz square signal that has an offset of 2.3V

 

Years ago I saw plans for a "tickle Stick" device that had a simple output transformer and one power transistor to deliver some AC voltage to aluminum foil on a cardboard tube. It used a single "D: cell for power.

 

I used 35 KHz op freq and where you have a 1K resistor, I put back to back MCL1303 constant current diodes, with a 39K to ground paralleling the output leads.

 

I used 35 KHz op freq and where you have a 1K resistor, I put back to back MCL1303 constant current diodes, with a 39K to ground paralleling the output leads.

In fact per Dr Clarck's work it's fine if the frequency is not exactly 30khz. The components used to build the circuit all have a 5-20% incertitude so it's quite impossible to get 30khz exactly unless you have some equipment to measure and tweek accordingly.

Parasites are wiped with different kind of frequencies, depending on their nature.
Dr Rife made a list with all the frequencies you can use against different kind of parasites, I think Dr Clarke got the same results, frequencies range from a few khz to 500Khz if I recall well. But the 30khz (approx) is commonly admitted to have a wide spectre (same as large spectre antibiotics if I had to make a bad comparison) thanks to all the harmonics it creates. Dr Beck used even lower frequencies, they are said to better penetrate through the skin.

 

I am aware. I designed another unit for a client and they wanted it to run between 0.6 Hz and 22 Hz at 45 V limited to 2 mA. But that was more a muscle twitcher for a masseuse. However, they also intended to try it on bugs. I think it just ended up as a muscle twitcher.

 

Yes like those TENS muscle relaxing machines

 

Hi guys, copper tubes/pipes are very expensive in my country.
I found stainless steel tubes they are way cheaper.
do you think the conductivity will still be good if I use steel instead of copper?

 

Solder will not stick to 306 stainless steel. Silver solder will. The difference in conductivity is not so great to make a huge difference, steel is not as conductive. Even silver solder will be difficult to solder onto stainless steel. It will require at bit more heat ( higher temperatures) as well as flux.

 

The e meter, has a similar question about how to make the contact to the subject
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-meter

there answer was a banana type connection to a tube, see the mark 4 E meter picture

There tubes are not copper on the outside, as I think the "smell" of copper on the hands was "not nice"
the "silver" ones seem to give the user a more pleasing experience,
I'm not certain if they are stainless or silvered,
silver has advantage of being slightly ant microbial.
so maybe look at some silvered pipes.

 

Solder will not stick to 306 stainless steel. Silver solder will. The difference in conductivity is not so great to make a huge difference, steel is not as conductive. Even silver solder will be difficult to solder onto stainless steel. It will require at bit more heat ( higher temperatures) as well as flux.

If stainless steel is so conductive, why did they use it to replace the ballast resistor in car ignition wiring? Have a look at this chart - https://www.tibtech.com/conductivite.php?lang=en_US

Why pick a form of stainless that isn't often used? 304 is much more prevalent the 306 in daily use. And most every stainless can be lead soldered, just not usually with a soldering iron. And they need acid type fluxes. I did it quite often in an earlier life. See page 29 in this PDF -https://nickelinstitute.org/media/1667/designguidelinesfortheselectionanduseofstainlesssteels_9014_.pdf

 

If stainless steel is so conductive, why did they use it to replace the ballast resistor in car ignition wiring? Have a look at this chart - https://www.tibtech.com/conductivite.php?lang=en_US

Why pick a form of stainless that isn't often used? 304 is much more prevalent the 306 in daily use. And most every stainless can be lead soldered, just not usually with a soldering iron. And they need acid type fluxes. I did it quite often in an earlier life. See page 29 in this PDF -https://nickelinstitute.org/media/1667/designguidelinesfortheselectionanduseofstainlesssteels_9014_.pdf

Stainess steel does make a good power resistor for some applications, where durability is important and not a lot of resistance is required.
And indeed soldering to it with lead solder is possible, but not as simple as soldering to copper. I have done it a few times and been able to produce a good joint. It does require a more aggressive flux. So first you tin it with that flux, then clean off that flux and solder the electrical connection. It does work.

 

You all raise interesting points, this forum is really a goldmine, thanks everybody.
I didn't think about the soldering problem. I guess if I use stainless steel I'll have to use the alligator clips instead of soldering, which will make the conductivity fall down more.
I am going going to put the extra money and buy the copper pipe to get better results. Sometimes it's better to invest a little bit more to be sure to have the right stuff in hand.
I didn't know about the E-meter, let's check this thing thanks for the heads up.

 

Note the copper will tarnish rapidly. You can get a quart of tinning solution for a few bucks, dip the copper into it and it'll have low resistance properties just like raw copper but less likely to tarnish. And just as solderable as clean copper.