I'm working on a garage door indicator, and I've tried push switches, but due to the door not being super dependable when it opens, I smashed the first one.
I think a reed switch might work better, since it probably won't be effected by cold (Michigan winters) and doesn't have to touch the door, so if the door is a little jerky or whatever then it'll still work. plus depending on how strong the magnet is, it'll indicate that the door is open even if it's only a few inches open.
I'm hoping not to spend very much on them.
I found this one on another post, but I'm honestly not sure if it'll handle it.
I'm still a noob with voltages.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HE563C
Also, I'm not sure what Must Operate: 20 ~ 25AT means.
Lastly, I'm confused about NO/NC (why I chose the 3 reed). It seems like some companies reverse them, so I'm never sure if NO means that it's normally open with the magnet is next to it, or when the magnet has been removed.
Thanks.
I think a reed switch might work better, since it probably won't be effected by cold (Michigan winters) and doesn't have to touch the door, so if the door is a little jerky or whatever then it'll still work. plus depending on how strong the magnet is, it'll indicate that the door is open even if it's only a few inches open.
I'm hoping not to spend very much on them.
I found this one on another post, but I'm honestly not sure if it'll handle it.
I'm still a noob with voltages.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HE563C
Also, I'm not sure what Must Operate: 20 ~ 25AT means.
Lastly, I'm confused about NO/NC (why I chose the 3 reed). It seems like some companies reverse them, so I'm never sure if NO means that it's normally open with the magnet is next to it, or when the magnet has been removed.
Thanks.