nerdegutta
- Joined Dec 15, 2009
- 2,684
Are you building an etching tank with bubbles?If it's a cold day then you need more time for the ferric chloride to do the job
Are you building an etching tank with bubbles?If it's a cold day then you need more time for the ferric chloride to do the job
Yes and it's working now the way i want it to beAre you building an etching tank with bubbles?
Rifaa, when i press the start button, the relay flip from normal close to normal open on the one side of the relay. When this happen, the supply to the capacitor was cut off because if you look closely to the schematic,you'll notice that the cap was connected to the normal close contactsIs the Cap discharging properly in that manner. ?
If it cannot discharge then timer won't work in the successive cycles. I think this is why u are getting one time buzzes. It is discharging over time.
I can take some pic's if you like, but just remember, it a dirty mess around that etching tankCare to share some pictures...?
I have to agree with Riffa. I'm glad you have it working, but the right side of the coupling capacitor is "floating", i.e. it's not at a defined voltage potential when the compressor is on.Rifaa, when i press the start button, the relay flip from normal close to normal open on the one side of the relay. When this happen, the supply to the capacitor was cut off because if you look closely to the schematic,you'll notice that the cap was connected to the normal close contacts
I bet you never read my reply's, because the questions you asked let me think it's like that. I've already said that the circuit is working now, mate
Ok thanks for the advice, but can you please explain why it's so important for the cap to be always connected to the power line. The thing is I've tested it on a breadboard and the cap constantly give a short pulse to Q1 each time i removed and reconnect the power and when i leave it connected, there was no pulse at all.I have to agree with Riffa. I'm glad you have it working, but the right side of the coupling capacitor is "floating", i.e. it's not at a defined voltage potential when the compressor is on.
If it's working then try to use it as it is. If you run into further problems, I described how to do it.
Good luck
Apologies accepted .(Sorry Rifaa if i was ugly with you)
The cap discharges by itself after a certain time. The way you connected it (according to your last picture) the correct way would be to add a resistor (100k for example) from the NC contact to Gnd, at the contact the cap is connected to. It will then be discharged when the relay is activated, i.e. the NC contact is open.Ok thanks for the advice, but can you please explain why it's so important for the cap to be always connected to the power line. The thing is I've tested it on a breadboard and the cap constantly give a short pulse to Q1 each time i removed and reconnect the power and when i leave it connected, there was no pulse at all.
Thanks praondevou. I see what you mean. I'm going to change my circuit the way you explained above and make a note for future use.The cap discharges by itself after a certain time. The way you connected it (according to your last picture) the correct way would be to add a resistor (100k for example) from the NC contact to Gnd, at the contact the cap is connected to. It will then be discharged when the relay is activated, i.e. the NC contact is open.
Leaving it open is just not the right way to do it, even if it works.