First I will go to my local paintsupplier and check the availibility for transparent emerald green.

Maybe the boards needs to be prepared with something first, not only cleaned?

If the paint is very thin, I might use a roller to apply it. Actually, I don't need spray-paint-equipment, so I do not want to buy some... Yet. I'm a gadget man so you never know.

 

Treat them the same as you would pre-toner/post etching. A quick wipedown with Acetone or 90% Isopropyl alcohol, making sure you don't leave behind lint. Mostly it's about getting rid of fingerprints.

The Testors 1601 spray can be found at hobby shops, and possibly the Vitrea 160 as well if you have a big hobby store around.

 

Treat them the same as you would pre-toner/post etching. A quick wipedown with Acetone or 90% Isopropyl alcohol, making sure you don't leave behind lint. Mostly it's about getting rid of fingerprints.

I use Acetone before soldering. Cleaning both sides.

The Testors 1601 spray can be found at hobby shops, and possibly the Vitrea 160 as well if you have a big hobby store around.

I do have a big hobby store nearby. Actually, can re-route my way home, and I will drive by it. Nice!

 

So I think I got the right color:

Name: Emerald Green
Code: BS381C:1988

It's an BS code (=British Standard)

Had some trouble applying it. The paint is based on water, and I used a pencil brush. Next time I'll use a spray can. (I'll just use the 1 liter I got first... )

More pictures here. And I was in a bit of a hurry, so the paint was dried with a heatgun.


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Looks great for a hand-brushed work!

Next order, get the "transparent" version of the paint if you can, then it looks closer to spec where you can see the copper thru the color, and prevents copper from oxidizing.

Also, use several very thin coats instead of trying to get it all colored in one go.

 

Thanks!

I had a struggle getting the paint to fasten. I had to use super fine sandpaper to roughen the blank PCB surface.

Then I used 2 layers of paint. Will try 1 layer, and just hope the paint is floating out evenly.

 

Green is the color of most quality epoxy-glass FR4 boards due to the resin, if they're yellow they're plain phenolic stuff.

This of course has to do with the actual PCB substrate itself, they can soldermask, silkscreen or paint anything they want on top.

No it is not. yellowish is the color of the phenolic/glass, the epoxy is clear. Green is the color of the solder mask applied. For the boards I do at work I always use black solder mask.. It looks really nice.
Off the shelf colors for your typical LPI soldermasks are blue, green, yellow, red, white and clear. Anything else is custom. Shades vary by manufacturer. Taiyo is probably the most popular brand.

 

My pcb supplier supplies green as default, if you want any other colour it costs a little more.

 

You can dye them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frsDN7usyCs

 

Thanks!

I had a struggle getting the paint to fasten. I had to use super fine sandpaper to roughen the blank PCB surface.

Then I used 2 layers of paint. Will try 1 layer, and just hope the paint is floating out evenly.

That's because you used a water-based coating. Can you find a non-water based coating, like a real lacquer?

In the US, one brand is Krylon. There are many others. The solvent makes the finish adhere to hydrophobic areas much better.

John

 

There were multiple choises, water-based with pencil brush/roller, oil-based with brush, oil-based with roller, oil-based in a spray can. The next step, I think I will try the oil based-spray can. I went for the cheapest first.