That doesn't seem right.

What is connected to what on the board?

The power can't come in on red and yellow if the switch goes from red to yellow.

Seems power should come in on black and either red or yellow. (guess-yellow)

If I flip the end bell over the black from power cord connects to yellow, and white to the red. Red/yellow do not go to the switch.

orange/blu/black come off the switch.

 

Wire flipping will either be yellow and orange or yellow and blue.

I would say yellow and orange would be my first try and that will flip the run winding over.

 

If I flip the end bell over the black from power cord connects to yellow, and white to the red. Red/yellow do not go to the switch.

orange/blu/black come off the switch.

Even though tcmtech has it figured out, I'm a little slow.

Could you take a picture of each side of board showing connections?

The red wire from board goes only to start capacitor. If the red wire connects to the white power wire, then there must be other inter-connections on the board.

 

The red wire from board goes only to start capacitor. If the red wire connects to the white power wire, then there must be other inter-connections on the board.

There are two red wires. One connecting the start capacitor to the start switch and a second one that goes from the start capacitor to the start winding.

The second re wire option would be to swap the red lead that goes from the windings to the start capacitor with the blue lead from the thermal protection device thusly reversing the phasing of the start winding.

There are only four wires and two sets of windings. The pretty much limits you to two pair of wires that can be reversed and have anything happen!

 

As stated above. Not enough space inside top.

Drop the motor down a bit. Put a reversing gear or pulley between the motor and the gear box on the outside of the gear box.

It's just another possibility.

There is ALWAYS a way.

 

Even though tcmtech has it figured out, I'm a little slow.

Could you take a picture of each side of board showing connections?

The red wire from board goes only to start capacitor. If the red wire connects to the white power wire, then there must be other inter-connections on the board.

You are correct. After looking at it again Blk wire from cord goes to Yellow. White goes to Blk from thermal switch.

 

 

 

 

Thanks,
That's more like it.

Now I can try drawing it out.

Probably not necessary as tcmtech seems to know the answer.

I just couldn't let it go without a diagram that fit with your description.

 

Thanks,
That's more like it.

Now I can try drawing it out.

Probably not necessary as tcmtech seems to know the answer.

I just couldn't let it go without a diagram that fit with your description.

Yeah sorry about that. I just need a laymans guide to which wires I need to swap. I can take the motor apart and wire it back the way it was. But when it comes to looking at schematics and having to rewire based on schematics im lost

 

One easy option would be to simply overheat the thermal protection device with a hot air gun or a battery charger that can supply more than 20 - 30 amps for about 10 - 20 seconds in a dead short with the protection device. Typically those devices will tip with an overcurrent condition just like an overheat condition would.

Once it pops all three leads on it will go open circuit to each other and the run or start winding can easily be found with the battery chargers DC power and a piece of metal to see which set of coils energizes with which set of wires.

I am really leaning on blue being the opposite end of the red start winding lead and orange and yellow being the run winding.

 

I swapped blue and yellow and the motor just hummed.

Swapped orange and yellow and that did the trick BUT...........

Now after a minute or so I smell burning insulation and smoke is present

Not thick smoke, but smoke none the less. Just when I thought I was in the clear.

 

Is the centrifugal switch opening up and disconnecting the start winding when the motor gets up to speed?

If not that's where your problem is.

Or your motor was already dead before you started playing with it.

 

Time for you to buy a new motor Please buy the right rotation this time

 

That's the problem with trying to hack motors. Once the smoke gets out, it's, "Game Over".

 

Is the centrifugal switch opening up and disconnecting the start winding when the motor gets up to speed?

If not that's where your problem is.

Or your motor was already dead before you started playing with it.

I believe your correct. I don't hear it open/close like it did when it was wired its original way. The motor ran great when wired the way it was meant to be wired. No discoloration on the windings and the cent. switch operated fine. Now that i've swapped those two wires the cent. switch isn't operating correctly

 

Might have to look at the actual centrifugal mechanism and see if it's moving or not and if it is when the motor gets up to speed the lever going to the start switch may just need a bit of bending.

One short smoke ob most likely didn't do much damage. More than likely either the start winding did it of the start capacitor and the heavier run winding is still just fine.

Believe me I have had more than a few motors ran until they smoked and did that more times than I care to admit to and still survive for many years.

A light puff or wisp just after shutdown is not so harmful a hard boiling smoke out while running is!

 

Spend the $60 and buy a freakin new motor. Problem and headaches solved! Unless you have nothing better to do and want to waste your time.

 

Spend the $60 and buy a freakin new motor. Problem and headaches solved! Unless you have nothing better to do and want to waste your time.

Where in the world can I get another motor with the same specs for $60? Please point me to this magical place lol. The cheapest i've found is $150. I can get another drill press for that off Craigslist.