+1

I shudder at the idea of this winding project. I've hand wound simple toroids and even that is a tedious chore.

Windings for a motor are easier than toroids, they a (at least for rewinds) done on a coil former and then put into the stator slots one or two wires at a time. Done like this because the slot opening is smaller than the actual wire "fill" area. But still tedious.

 

So according to Motor Winding Scheme Calculator V1.0 Should I wound the motor the same way as it is specified by the scheme;And
How many poles would be most efficient in making the motor
How to specify the RPM of the motor and torque .

 

...done on a coil former...

There are jigs for machine winding toroids also, but with no machine, hand winding is not a pleasant job.

 

Smashed off the old wave Winding......Now have a look at the stator

 

So according to Motor Winding Scheme Calculator V1.0 Should I wound the motor the same way as it is specified by the scheme;And
How many poles would be most efficient in making the motor
How to specify the RPM of the motor and torque .

The number of stator poles will be determined by the number of magnet poles the rotor will have. It will be in any case in multiples of three, since the power from the controller is "three phase".

Not sure what 'motor winding scheme V1.0' is so can't make a comment on it.

RPM and torque are specifications that you, as the designer, decide on. But as far as output from the motor it won't be much different than the original induction motor had. I asked earlier what type and HP the original motor was, but you didn't want to share.

What type of controller are you planing to use? Sensor-less or sensored? This will have a lot to do with the RPM to shoot for. The hobby "ESC" controllers don't work very well for "slow" speed motors like those needed for an EV. Since there are no sensors used in them, at low speeds they have problems, the motors have a lot of "slippage", because there is no link to rotor position.

An EV does not need a "high" speed motor, unless your planning to use a transmission in it. 2000 to 2500 RPM would be a good range to plan for in the motor and controller.

Have you even considered using a different motor to start from? An alternator from a older General Motors car can be made into a BLDC that will put out around 4-5HP fairly easy. Just another suggestion for you. I've been researching this of and on for awhile now and its not easy to do and do right. You can make something that will turn the shaft, or you can make something that will make a usable amount of power. The whole thing is up to you.

Would you consider putting your country in your user profile? It makes it easier to make suggestions on things for use in your project.

 

For got to add that the stator coil number is usually- number of magnet poles +2 or number of magnet poles -2. And the number of magnet poles is always a even number.

 

Have A look on this stator

http://translate.google.com/transla...=2&eotf=1&u=http://powerditto.de/monster.html

the second one Inrunner

 

My be a 20 pole rotor is good;Have a look onto the website
http://apexmagnets.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=176

 

Old Parameters
1.1/8 HP
2.220v
3.Single Phase Induction AC motor
4.3000Rpm

New Motor parameters are
1.Sensor-ed
2.72v
3.~5HP
4.3 Phase
5.3000Rpm

 

You will never get ~5HP from a 1/8HP motor!!!!! Physically impossible, stop and think about it.

 

SO how much HP would I get from that stator.

 

SO how much HP would I get from that stator.

I have no idea. But there is HP and usable HP. Getting a high HP number at a very high RPM and usable HP at a low speed are very different. The link you gave is very different from the normal way of building this type motor. Most use many turns of small diameter wire, he uses few turns of very big diameter wire. It totally goes against the normal theory of "amp turns", that is used in motor making. Look at the size and number of turns that were in your stator. That is the normal way of winding. Not saying that he is wrong, just different.

By 'usable HP' I mean at a low enough speed that, in a EV you don't need to have such a high gear ratio that you waste most of the HP to friction and heat to get enough torque to move the EV.

Torque is what moves a vehicle, HP is what makes it go fast. HP without torque is a waste.

As far as the HP from that stator, look at the difference between it and a stator in a 5 HP motor. It takes a certain amount of both iron and copper to make torque and Hp at a usable speed.

I'm not at all familiar with things in India (thanks for putting that in your user info). Are there auto junk yards there? Are things like used auto alternators available? When you say your building an EV, what type is it? Car or bike?

 

SO how much HP would I get from that stator.

I wouldn't expect any more than the original specification, that's for sure. And you'll get some fraction of the power it draws.

You might be able to find some rule-of-thumb for power expected for a given size or weight of motor.