Breadboard to perfboard

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by berkman, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. berkman

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 14, 2013
    I need to put this:
    unto this:
    [image is to big, so you'll have to enter the link]

    Now, my area is coding, so I have basically NO idea how to solder that breadboard structure to something as strange as that permanent board. Any help would be appreciated.

    Also, hello!
  2. wayneh


    Sep 9, 2010
    Well, you'll need a small-tip soldering iron, proper solder (meant for electronics), hook-up wire, a wire stripper, and personally I always use a bright work light and a magnifying glass. Do you have all these?

    I can tell you how I do it. I use a computer drawing program with the perfboard in the background layer, and layout the parts carefully to pack them in tight, logically and with minimum wire. These goals often conflict, so there's the challenge. You have tons of room for that circuit on that perfboard, so go for logical layout if you want. Most folks use a dedicated program such as Eagle for the drawing chore.

    Occasionally, if I need to make a "bus" of several perf holes all connected, I use a piece of stripped wire or the leftover lead cut from one of the components I'm mounting. I solder it to several holes in a row, one at a time. You can use this technique to simulate the power busses on the breadboard.
  3. tracecom

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 16, 2010
    No more complex that that circuit is, you could glue the IC on the back of the battery holder and wire it all together "dead bug" style (no perfboard needed.)
  4. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
    you may be better off buying a 2" x 3" Proto board that has the same bus connections as a breadboard (Radio Shack sells them), then simply assemble the circuit in the same way, and cut off the unused portion of the board.
  5. ErnieM

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 24, 2011
    thatoneguy means these:
    [​IMG] part, but get it on EBay for zero shipping

    Sometimes they come tarnished so solder doesn't adhere well... so clean them, eraser, steel wool, something to make them bright. RS also has a decent cheap iron that comes with some solder. Get some hook-up wire while you're there, something that says "solid" so it only has one wire inside (and not 7+ twisted together).

    You can use that board, but you have to wrap the wire around the parts leads, it's just easier to have a board to solder one thing at a time to.

    Don't be upset if you burn something up pr it looks like doo-doo. Soldering takes some time to master; I do not consider myself a master at it, just about average.

    (And see if they have any solder wick to remove unwanted solder from unwanted places.)

    And welcome to the forums!
    thatoneguy likes this.