Blown Led 555 timer board.

Thread Starter

Road1

Joined Oct 4, 2012
3
I currently have blown my 555 timer chip that flashes 2 Led's. It works fine from a 9v battery, but burns up when using a 9v 1.5a (1500ma) wall adapter.
The kit I have comes with the following:
555 timer
33k ohm resister
120k ohm resister
4.7 MFD capacitor
2 Led's
9v battery snap.

I want to change the 9v battery to the wall adapter without burning up the timer or board. I know the 555 timer chip maxes out at 200ma. I thought the circuit board with the 555 chip would only draw what it needs, but I keep burning them out when hooked up to my 9v wall adapter. What could I add to keep this from happening?
 

ScottWang

Joined Aug 23, 2012
7,400
I didn't see the LED current limitation resistor.
How about the V,I of LED?
If the surge damaged the NE555, then you can add one R,C to limit current when NE555 power up.
C - 220uf/25V
R - according to the current of NE555.
 

ScottWang

Joined Aug 23, 2012
7,400
You have to measure the voltage of wall adapter, it better be around 9Vdc.

Now, I'm asuming NE555 limiting at 100mA.
So, you can add one R(10Ω) and C(220uf/25V) to NE555.

wall adapter(9Vdc) → R(10Ω/1W) + C(220uf/25V) to GND → from R,C contacts → pin 8 of NE555.

If you didn't add any resistor to the LED, because the LED is flashing, so you may series a 160~240Ω to the LED.
 

Thread Starter

Road1

Joined Oct 4, 2012
3
Thanks for the info. It's been along time since I messed around with electronic circuits and I'm very rusty. I do appreciate the help.
 

mcgyvr

Joined Oct 15, 2009
5,394
you probably need a "regulated" 9V wallwart. Or add a 9V regulator to your circuit.
I'd suspect this wallwart is unregulated which means that the 9V could be much higher depending on the load on it..

But yes..This post is worthless without a schematic.
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
Is this truly a DC output? Some wall warts (about half) give an AC output. And again, the DC outputs aren't necessarily a nice steady DC, some are a pulsing DC, just a half or full wave rectified AC.

If it is a DC output wart, you have the polarity correct, right? You checked it?
 
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