For one thing, i like to reuse the terminal even if the wire breaks off, and crimping does not allow this. There's no secret here.

The thing is that crimped fastons rarely ever break off, if you crimp them to the correct gauge wire.
Soldered wires on the other hand break off basically anytime you give them a bad look.
The company I work for does electronics for railway industry and all the wire connections specifically have to be crimped.
Also the fastons are so cheap I wouldn't even think about reusing them.

 

"IF" you were to do it properly you wouldn't have any problems..
The fact that you are reusing broken/old terminals, probably don't have the proper crimping tools and just want to solder the wire on IS the problem. Its not the terminals fault.. Its the installation thats a problem.
I use fastons in numerous products that I design.. All are subject to heavy transportation vibration testing as well as Zone 4 earthquake shake tests as well as 10N pull tests.
I have NEVER had a single one break.. But I do it properly.

Its a $0.02 part.. buy new ones.. don't reuse broken ones.. use the proper crimp tool, and adding shrink tubing and it will be MORE than sufficient. Half ass gets you..well half ass

 

Hello again,

#12:
I have a feeling you have a good idea, but you'll have to clarify how you want to use the tie wrap. You mean tie wrap the wire insulated part to the connector after soldering it on, as in fold it over, or something else?

Basic theory: Wires don't break off unless you move them. If you strap them to anything that makes them hold still, they won't break.

I don't care if you bolt the wire tie to the terminal block or the chassis behind the circuit board. If you make the wire hold still, it won't break.

 

That small a wire give it a twist around the barrel or double back, then shrink tube it once or twice.

 

Automotive wire terminals aren't soldered because of wire movement causes breakage at the terminal. (worked for GM/Delphi/Packard electric where we made terminals, wire and harnesses) They also use 19 strand wire to keep from fatigue breakage. 7 strand wire is the root of this problem, get some automotive wire and the problem should stop.

They also make 90 degree terminals that crimp on. http://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Deg..._indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KPE03SGY7QKK94Z4A7Y

 

Hi,

That's the kind of terminals i have, except the ones i have are one size UP from that size, so they are a little bigger and heavier. Not bad really.

I already stated that i used regular crimps and that worked, but not for as long as i want it to work. The solutions i have already shown will work for a very long long time, and that is the kind of solution i was looking for.

This application is much different from your typical app because the wire and connectors have to be used almost like you would use a plug and wire connected to a vacuum cleaner: the wire moves around a lot as you sweep though the house. I believe it is this movement that causes the eventual failure.

A stress test that would 'simulate' the application stresses would be to mount a vise to the ceiling, clamp the good end of the Faston into the vise (that would ruin it but that's ok for the test) and let the wire dangle. Connect a 10 pound weight to the end of the wire. Rock the weight back and forth thousands of times until the wire breaks off.
Note that no matter how good you do the connection, this test will eventually break the wire. In fact, if it does not break off then the test wasnt done right.

I've already tried crimping the wire and insulation (double crimp).
I've also tried soldering and crimping the insulation, which works almost the same as the double crimp.
I have a crimping tool, but of course i wont go out and buy a 50 dollar crimp tool just for this
I know crimps work better than solder for many applications, but i want something better. In other words, with the stress test given above the crimped wire will break off long before an alternate method which works even better than a crimp.
So for the last time, i am after something BETTER than a crimp. Something that is designed to take random repeated wire movement like that found in the application.

Back before most of you were probably born they used holes drilled in the PC board to relieve stress in the wires that SOLDERED to the board. That makes them very durable even though the stripped end is soldered to the copper clad because most of the stress gets applied to the insulation jacket. The extra holes hold onto the jacket because the wire is threaded through the holes complete with insulation still intact. So part of the wire goes through the holes still has insulation, and the only part that doesnt have insulation is the end where it is soldered to the copper clad. This works very well.

I also like the idea of wrapping the wire around the body of the terminal and then shrink wrapping all that. Not sure if it would be enough but it might be.

I could easily draw a machined terminal that would satisfy this requirement completely, but it would require special machining and tooling. I dont have a machine shop available anymore so that's out.

 

Well, why didn't you say so?

 

Great use of a terminal doubler!

 

Well, why didn't you say so?

[Referring to the doubler with holes for the wire]

Hi again,

That's totally cool

Now my only question left then is did you drill those two holes for the wire yourself or did the doubler come that way? Looks like they were drilled but i'd like to know for sure.

Thanks much for the idea

 

Drilling is possible.

I used an 1/8" punch.

Soldering and shrink tube didn't go so well.
Next time, solder first, then lace!
Post pictures if you do better.
You, know. I thought this was silly, but may just use this.

 

Drilling is possible.

I used an 1/8" punch.

Soldering and shrink tube didn't go so well.
Next time, solder first, then lace!
Post pictures if you do better.
You, know. I thought this was silly, but may just use this.

Hi again,

You wont believe how long it lasts doing something like this.

Now i wonder if they make a "three" male to one female type connector like that? That would give us three holes to work with, the number i was after. That's two holes for wire with insulation still on, and one hole for soldering. Or else we have to bend the stripped end around a little and solder above or below the hole areas.
Of course with all the area we have in the male part of the doubler we could probably get away with soldering something brass to that, then drill or punch some holes wherever we wanted them. Something to think about.

I found some doubler online so i'll probably order some in the next few days after i figure out what else i need too.

Thanks again, and if you come up with more ideas like this it certainly wont hurt to add them here

I dont know if i will ever try that other type that mounts in the PC board. They look kind of flimsy to begin with so they might not be heavy duty enough for my purpose. Have to think about it some more i guess.

I also wonder how hard it would be to bend some thin steel or brass into the shape of the female end of the connector. That would allow almost any shape top part to be made.

Another addition might be some steel guitar wire. That stuff is thin and strong and flexible, and can be soldered. Some clever use (added to something else like the doubler) could result in a really super reliable connector. More to think about.