djsfantasi
- Joined Apr 11, 2010
- 9,163
Lots of head scratching here, too.
Of course, there are only 8 channels on this schematic, I posted this one because it's more much simple, and I built one like this (in reality, 8 channels for the loudspeakers, and an other print with 4 channels for the amplifiers). There is a 7 segments connected, and everything goes very well.I'm still scratching my head because I see the schematic you provided, but I don't see 15 switches. Between SW0 to SW8, is only one switch ever pressed at a given time or are multiple switches pressed simultaneously?
Thanks for your advice, it seems I have to learn the MCU's.A is surely easier, the use of a microcontroller.
Yes and no. Yes, you could do something like you describe and have the volt meter display a number, the problem is the volt meter doesn't have a latch or a way to save the number, so as soon as you release a button, the value will go to zero.I'm wondering if I could use a 3 digits voltmeter (0.1 v would give number one, 0.2 V number 2....).
We know programming for the first time can be intimidating and since this is not a homework assignment or a very complicated program (for me anyway), we're happy to program it for you. We can show you how to load the program onto the IC so you can then program IC's as you need them. You can later change the code if necessary.But MCU's require to be programmed I suppose, and it's not an easy job for me.
Using that idea, if you absolutely don't want to use an MCU, then you could use a DAC at the binary output of the 4514 latch and then go to a DVM. But you will need to scale the voltage to get a proper readout so the voltage corresponds to the speaker selected, which could be done with an op amp or perhaps just a voltage divider, depending upon the output of the DAC...........................
However, you've spurred a thought. Instead of multiplexing, you could use an MCU with a digital to analog (DAC) output. Then you use a volt meter like you suggest to serve as your display. The MCU will keep the voltage to the volt meter constant, so the display stays the same until another button is pressed. This keeps the code simple (vs. multiplexing) and the IC small. The trick would be to get the MCU to output the correct value to the volt meter so it correlates with the button number.
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That's very kind, but I do not want you spend too much time for me - however I don't know how much you'll need -We know programming for the first time can be intimidating and since this is not a homework assignment or a very complicated program (for me anyway), we're happy to program it for you. We can show you how to load the program onto the IC so you can then program IC's as you need them. You can later change the code if necessary.
So if we write the program and show you how to load it onto the MCU, will this meet your needs? The PICAXE only needs about $5 in parts to allow you to program the MCU using a breadboard. The PICAXE runs $3-6 USD depending on the size and the program is free.
Because I'm thinking it's too much to use a MCU for just displaying 6 numbers ! However I would like to see a shematic to have an idea ?Why is it so many people have offered you the best solution and you continue to ignore it?
Yes and no. Yes, you could do something like you describe and have the volt meter display a number, the problem is the volt meter doesn't have a latch or a way to save the number, so as soon as you release a button, the value will go to zero.
In the time spent just reading this thread the job would have been done and over with.That's very kind, but I do not want you spend too much time for me - however I don't know how much you'll need -
I'm just afraid of the apparent difficulty (using a MCU) for just displaying six numbers on a display, I though it would be easier.
So you need a two-digit display (00-99) to show which set of 20 pairs of speakers is selected, correct? And this could grow up to 30 (or more)?But I've also a bigger room with more loudspeakers, and I'll need a more bigger dispaching, for routing 15 to 20 loudspeakers pairs, driven by the same amplifier. I though 15 because it corresponds to the ouputs of the 4514 (in reality, there are 16 ouputs, and I can use all of them). I must drive a double display to show what pair is "on" at a given time. To do that, I can take the signal 1/ from the push buttons 2/ from the 4 input data lines of the 4514 3/ from the outputs of the 4514, where there is always an ouput on high level (only one at a given time).
The rotary encoder is not very recommanded, because when you're doing a demo (comparison between the loudspeakers 3 and 15 for example), the 15 must be heard immediately after the 3, and conversely : "now, you're listenning to the 3, now the 15, now the 3, whom do you prefer ?"How about a rotary selector switch instead of single push-buttons?
by Jeff Child
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz