I have been getting ready to refinish the tub but I also am going to replace all the bathroom tub tiles....

I finally took all the tiles down and now I am wondering once I decide on what tiles I want to put up... I am curious it looks as if the dry wall where the tiles where was covered in layers of brown construction paper .

At present this construction paper is crusted with old white tile adhesive,...etc.

I am wondering when I start laying new tile do I tear off the paper and put new paper up or do I use the existing paper with all the crap on it???

Their is some spots where the paper was ripped what do I do for this?

Thanks for any help hopefully I don't have to cut out the whole dry wall and replace it with new dry wall?

Also the dry wall for the tiles looks a little different looking then the normal dry wall I paint over... maybe this is just because of the paper or is their more to it then that some kind of water proofing agent????

Thanks for any input

 

The brown paper is your sheetrock I wouldn't
destory it.

 

So is it just drywall then sheetrock or is their more layers to this type of wall?

Also if some sheetrock is destroyed is their away of replacing it?
For instance when taking down the tiles some of the sheetrock peeled off with it....

 

The new way they do it on your buck,is to rip it
all out. And start over.

 

So by rip it all out.
You mean cut the dry wall out completely and lay new dry wall over the studs?

The new way...
Is their anything less drastic then ripping it out completely to repair it?
Like an Old way???

 

Watch any remodeling anywhere in your area or this old house,
the sunday night program. A contractor won't touch a job
with out control,once you sign that contract you could lose
your house from costs to save it from the contractor.
Contractors are very powerful with lien powers,a contract
is one of the most binding.

 

In Fla. a super rich business man sue his contractor,the business mans
wife was so mad when ask to put up $50,000,000 to collect judgement
they put the money in the hands of a scams attorney.The scamer was
caught,but the $50 million was gone.The scamer went to jail but that don't
help get money,on going story. The contractor sit on the side lines maybe
with his lien. Contractor are needed,but the power they have is to much.
Anyone have a good answer about the power.Good hard to prove insurance
is out there,but that much insurance most people can't afford.

 

Another woman had a u-tube video of her roof after having it replaced
you could see the roof was put over rotten plywood. She displayed the letters
and audio going the city inspector no help,the state contractor code enforce
ment. She got the run around from every one.She had the help of the press
on her side.Contractors hold tight because of there history of winning with all
type of contracts,home owner,government,schools,public buildings. There
best thing they have is the little verbal add on that increase contract by
thousands,that you thought were free or cheap,they love them.The wording
about delays will drive you crazy,a 6 month contract can turn into 2 to 5 years.

 

A contractors life not so easy,it must be alfull to have to take
a sub-contract because of slow down.if they have a good crew
they can't afford to let them get set-up some where else. Also
not being able to be bonded for some jobs.So you have the small
fish,shark effect with in the contractor food chains. So that puts a lot
of money going to the insurance Industry. So all the add on cost to put
a building toether. So you get the lobbies in the middle to put the deal
together more cost. So follow the money that each gets,not so easy,
that makes this a difficult process to follow. We did not mention the
bankers share.Help me understand why we should not join Thingmaker
in the forest to find a home stead.How many of you guys could take the
woods over this terrible economy. Every one dreams of the cabin in the
mountains,could you take the cabin and forget about the home that you
pay more fees than you ever make,with interest rates that you will never
over come,and all the surprises that are coming your way.

 

My buddies a master tile layer. One of his big issues is the plumbers used to install the tubs and toilets. If they don't get it exactly right you will have gaps and crappy tile. Many times he tells me of having to go in there and fix everything before he can even start working. So moral of the story is before you start laying tile make sure all your ammenities are straight and level. 1 mm can make a huge difference in tile.

 

Trouble in River City,an old phase.So he has to charge for that adding to the owner
expense,covered in the contract some where.

 

If you want a professional result, and no mold, remove the old dry wall. If you have a brown 'construction' paper covering on your drywall, it is most likely because the original installers didn't use the proper water resistant drywall. They instead used a vapor barrier paper on top of regular grade drywall.

Remove the old drywall and replace with a duroc type cement board. They come in 3x5 foot panels. It is basically concrete sandwitched between two pieces of netting.

It will not warp, or provide any cellulose for mold. It also has a great texture for holding thin-set and tiles. Highly reccomended. You can find thick versions for sub flooring and thinner versions for wallboard. You can screw, or nail it into place with standard hardware. It will also allow you to skip the drywall steps of taping and spackleing, and painting.

here is a link to help:
http://www.homeadditionplus.com/Installing%20Ceramic%20Tile%20in%20a%20Shower.htm

 

If you want a professional result, and no mold, remove the old dry wall. If you have a brown 'construction' paper covering on your drywall, it is most likely because the original installers didn't use the proper water resistant drywall. They instead used a vapor barrier paper on top of regular grade drywall.

Remove the old drywall and replace with a duroc type cement board. They come in 3x5 foot panels. It is basically concrete sandwitched between two pieces of netting.

It will not warp, or provide any cellulose for mold. It also has a great texture for holding thin-set and tiles. Highly reccomended. You can find thick versions for sub flooring and thinner versions for wallboard. You can screw, or nail it into place with standard hardware. It will also allow you to skip the drywall steps of taping and spackleing, and painting.

here is a link to help:
http://www.homeadditionplus.com/Installing Ceramic Tile in a Shower.htm

Great advice. I remodeled a bath a few years ago and used hardibacker board to lay tile. It's great stuff.
Some pictures of ripout and reinstall of new tub and tile. That old stuff was nasty.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nsaspook/sets/72157623339803643/show/

Checkout this site for the best methods. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php

 

Ok ,I am just going to install the standard water resistant drywall around the tub.

Putting up the dry wall is pretty easy until I got to the last wall where the tub fauct , handles ,...etc poke out.

I don't know how to hang this piece since I don't want to cut it into 2 seperate pieces since their are only 2 studs to nail it to.

I know they must have cut it some way and slipped it on but I forget what the old one was like. Any advice would be great.

I am think cut the top of the dry wall just enough to slide the dry wall over the shower pipe and cut a small hole for the turn on knob...etc Or maybe use tape and putty and just cut it into to halfs.

 

measure from the wall and use plunge cuts to open the holes for the faucet and knobs. A friend of mine with one hand uses a technique of taping a sharpie marker to the things he wants to cut around. When he holds the drywall up to the wall, the markers draw dots where the Items are. He then measures up, down, left, and right from the marker and spot to cut the holes.

 

cool , gotcha

what would he or someone use to cut /shape the tiles around the tub fixtures that sit on top of the shaped dry wall?

I am thinking some type of saw?
The only thing I currently have is a dremel and the extension for cutting dry wall and wood. Though I am wondering if this dremel 300 with the special dremel MS400 XPR MultiSaw will also cut/shape tiles.

I am trying to play it as cheap as possible to do this project.
Thanks for your thoughts that marker idea was a really good thought.

 

A diamond bladed tile saw. Rent one from home depot..Also called a wet saw. It cycles water onto the tile to cool while being cut. You usually cut the tiles bigger then overlay a chrome(or any) fixture to hide the cut tiles.

You can get hole saws and drillbits that will cut tile. I have used a jig-saw that had a tile cutting blade..not easy to use without a very fast saw.