Finding components is less critical than you think, it is more of what is available in your area. You can always buy something better than you need, as long as a part meets minimum specs you're cool.

Simulators are not always right. You flip the switch off as shown and you're circuit stops, and that is pretty much it. I've been doing this for over 30 years, I occasionally make mistakes, but certain things are not a problem, this is one.

Something that circuit could probably use is a simple bypass cap, around 220µF, around the 555. It is not critical, the circuit will work without it, but it smooths the power to the chip so it is a little bit more consistent.

 

ok the 680Ω is only a safety. I originally put a 680kΩ in that made the time to long. Hows this one look? Do my capacitors look ok?

Yep, that looks pretty good - however, you really need a 220uF and a 0.1uF cap across pins 1 and 8 of the 555 timer. That's to take care of transients (voltage spikes and dips) when the timer switches states.

Also, keep in mind that you'll have a hard time finding a 75k pot.
They usually are usually available in values of 1k, 2k, 5k, 10k, 20k, 50k, 100k, 200k, 500k, 1MEG. If you stick to using those values, you will have an easier time when you go to buy parts.

As far as resistors, there are standard decade resistance values. A table of these is here:
http://www.logwell.com/tech/components/resistor_values.html
You may only be able to find E6 (salmon columns) or E12 (yellow columns) values locally, unless you have a good electronics store. A good electronics store might carry E24 (green columns) values; a big one might carry E48 values. For more precision than that, you'll usually have to order them from a distributor like Mouser or Digikey. Basically, the lower the E-number, the easier it will be to find the resistors you've specified.

I think the hardest thing is going to buy this stuff. There are millions of different diodes alone.

Some common diodes are:
1N4148/1N914 - these are low current (<100mA) switching diodes. This would be a good choice for the diode in parallel with R2.
1N4001-1N4007 - these are general purpose 1A rectifier diodes; useful to have around. These would also work well for the diode in parallel with R2, and might be OK for the diode across the motor.
1N5401-1N5407 - these are general purpose 3A rectifier diodes; similar to 1N4001-1N4007 only larger and able to handle more current. This would be a good choice for the motor diode.

Is it as simple as buying components with the values i need within the voltage and amp range as the battery?

Caps need to be rated for at least twice the voltage you'll put across them.
Since you're using a 6.3v battery, the caps need to be rated for 12.7v or more. 16v, 25v, 35v, 50v, 63v, 100v, etc. are common voltage ratings. You can use a higher voltage rated part, but never lower.

I see the resistors go by watts.

Yes.
Calculate Watts by current x voltage. Double the result. Then use a resistor rated for at least twice the result for best reliability.

I attached a BOM that the software spit out. You guys are amazing! I dont know how you can keep all this straight.

Some of us have been doing this for a while.

If i was to think way ahead and want to use this on other things with different batteries what would need to change? The R1 and the resistor before the transistor? Im not going to worry about that now, but since i have your attention.

You'd need to increase that 600/680 Ohm resistor. 555 timers have a maximum voltage limit; some 16v, some 18v. So, if you used 1.8k for the minimum resistance between Vcc and pin 7 (18x100=1.8k), you'd be OK from 6v to 18v.

Voltage ratings for caps are the other concern. If all your caps are rated for 35v, you'll be OK for up to 17.5v - but odds of wanting to run a 555 timer on a voltage that high are slim. Better to stick to 16v or less.

 

Oh no I flipped the switch to off in the simulator and the timer exploded. It said the pin voltage was taken below the negative supply voltage by 2.92V. The Max is 1V.

Interesting.

Place a 220uF cap across pins 1 and 8.

Try changing the 170 Ohm resistor to 330 Ohms.